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XP airguns ranger 45 caliber 36inch barrel MONSTER !

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Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 187 total)
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  • #10914
    dan-h
    Participant

    I now have my new xp airguns ranger 45 caliber airgun , and i must say this is a MONSTER shooting gun . 😆 😆 😆 😆

    So far i have tested out 454 round ball ,and 250 grain laser cast bullets .

    during brake in so far the round ball is working better , dead on accurate shooting 3000 psi 1070 fps on low power , mid power 3800 psi 1150 fps working down 9 shots to 877 .

    The laser cast 250 grain stuff , on mid power 987fps working down 9 shots to 720 ,

    these numbers should improve by around 50 fps after break in according to Dan Mcvey .

    this gun gets a lot of shots for a big bore , and with the long barrel the power stays up even at low pressures . 😉

    some pics shooting this weekend.

    #133266
    slayer5
    Participant

    I am excited to see what your tests show works best. It is amazing the testing going on with you and RC with these guns.
    I am sitting back saving cash for one and I am so happy you guys are working out the kinks! lol 😉

    #133277
    benneeb0y
    Participant

    😯 That thing is a monster!

    #133286
    riffraff
    Participant

    If you run out of air you can use it for a paddle on your jet-ski. 😆

    #133291
    dan-h
    Participant
    quote RiffRaff:

    If you run out of air you can use it for a paddle on your jet-ski. 😆

    it is coated with west systems epoxy ! salt water proof it is ! 😆 i could be like lewis and clark padeling and shooting my air-gun on the Columbia ! 😆

    #133292
    roachcreek
    Participant

    Dan,

    That thing is a monster, you have to be young and full of piss and vinegar just to lift that thing.

    Mine is heavy enough the way it is at 28 inches.

    Charlie

    #133300
    tofazfou
    Participant

    Very nice post DAN. I like everything about it.

    I like your shooting grounds with all your gear and targets out there.

    NICE!!

    And yes, that gun is big and powerful..DAYUM!!

    #133308
    dan-h
    Participant
    quote roachcreek:

    Dan,

    That thing is a monster, you have to be young and full of piss and vinegar just to lift that thing.

    Mine is heavy enough the way it is at 28 inches.

    Charlie

    Charlie….. it is a bit heavy with the extra wide stock , perfect for target shooting , i am going to get and ultra light stock for it also , for hiking some time soon .

    I am ordering all the lead casting stuff from midway , i made a list tonight ,
    20 lbs melting pot

    kroil for treating the mold

    fluxing
    dipper

    round ball mold

    80 lbs of lead
    i am starting off with a round ball 454 mold cause i know this works real well , i was shooting a hole through a hole with 454 round ball ! 😆 i think it is the perfect plinking round HA ! HA ! …. really if you think about it you don’t use much lead making them

    Charlie i like that bullet you made the 400+ grainer what company did you get that mold from ? how much $ for it ?

    #133309
    dan-h
    Participant
    quote Tofazfou:

    Very nice post DAN. I like everything about it.

    I like your shooting grounds with all your gear and targets out there.

    NICE!!

    And yes, that gun is big and powerful..DAYUM!!

    T ….. thanks man 😆 i am really stocked about this gun ! 😆 😆

    i was shooting about 20-25 minutes from my house up on larch MT Vancouver WA , up high on the mountain 100 feet from the snow line great view up there , i spent most the day Sunday up there shooting away !

    i think tethering the gun to a 44cf tank is the way to go , you can shoot like hell ! and plus learn how the gun shoots better at all the different pressures ,

    i just need to get a regulater now so i can regulate down 4500 psi , on that tank in the pic i started out tethered at 3400 psi shooting the gun on low power , on a tank i already used a 1100 psi off the top of , this is a good way to have some fun shooting a bunch with-out recharging the gun over and over , 😆

    T… you got the shoebox now so you can do this also ! 😆

    it’s nice to hang out with all you guy’s on here thanks for all your help .

    DH

    #133313
    roachcreek
    Participant

    Dan,

    Larch mountain, that is funny, acrossed the river from you is another Larch mountain, and everybody goes up there to shoot too.

    The mold is from Accurate Molds, now mine had trouble, he got some bad sprue plate screws and it bound up and scored the mold.

    Tom the guy that owns the place apologised profusely, paid for the shipping fixed it and apologised again, I got it back yesterday, I was so very impressed by his fast and great service.

    The mold is 46425B but order it for 452 diameter with what ever lead alloy you will use, I specified pure lead, so it will cast big with lighter alloys and I can size it down.

    http://www.Accuratemolds.com

    He is 3 weeks on turnaround. Mine is aluminum, but you can get brass and iron also, they use RCBS and Lee handles.

    I also bought the LEE hand press, the one that does not bolt to a bench and a Lee die to size, marvalous little press.

    I have some bullets from another maker, who will surprise you because us air gunners do not usually associate him with this kind of slug. I will be posting about soon, 345 HP’s and a mid weight Real* looking bullet, 214 I think and some more Devastator type HP’s. He sent three different diameters and they realy look good.

    I bought my Regulator off of Ebay, I got it for 271 shipped, the big air gun boys sell it for close to 400 dollars. I bought it for the Booster, but I am going to make the fitings so I can take it off to regulate for a tether, but I fill to 4500 PSI, so for big slugs, straight from the bottle is fine for me, it is how I like my Stoly vodka also.

    Regards,

    Roachcreek

    #133349
    dan-h
    Participant

    i just got back in from working on the shoe box , for a long time !

    i had to replace the piston rod i put new orings in the cylinder and the check valve then i had some problem it would shut off at 1700 psi ,

    so i took it apart again , looked at a few things put it back together same problem ! Dam ! 😥

    so i took it apart again cleaned the lower cylinder all out , and figured out that there was a small micro round perfect cut of one of the orings that had been used before keeping the check valve open i figured , ya that’s it … 😛

    so now i put it back together for the 3rd time -well this time it passed 1700 psi running like a champ then at 2700 it started kicking back ready to shut off again , 😯

    so i took it apart again replaced the check valve oring again thinking that the little micro piece of crap messed up the new check valve oring that i just put in , so i put it back together again , same problem 3000 psi shut off ! CRAP ! 😯 😈 🙄 🙁 🙁 😥 😳 😈

    so….. you guessed it…. i took it apart again ! …..and replaced the orings in the cylinder AGAIN ! fired it up ! and it went past 3000 working good again !

    it is charging up right now thank GOD ! 😯 😆 2 1/2 hours later ! 😯

    #133350
    tofazfou
    Participant

    Nice. Guess at some point, i’m gonna have to rebuild mine. But for now……..

    Just used mine for the SECOND fill from 3800-4500 PSI. Working smooth as ever………………..FOR NOW……..lol

    #133351
    roachcreek
    Participant

    Dan, Tof,

    I just rebuilt my replacment Shoebox yesterday for the 2nd time, the first one I had rebuilt maybe 5 times.

    I have gotten to the point now that I do the lower cylinder first, it seems the inner o ring wants to break more often and cause the early shut off or no charging.

    The first rebuild is intimidating, and then after you do it once you see how truely simple they are. But itis the nature of the machine that you have to rebuilt it, a lot.

    This time it was shutting off early, all the orings were fine, the end of the upper cylinger check valve seal had a lot of depostis, so I guess that is what did it this time, but once cleaned and orings replaced and together again it runs like a champ.

    I do have to moniter this one closely at shutoff time tho, this one will shut off at 3500 PSI, if I so very slightly adjust the shut off collar, it will go way past 4500 PSI, try to get it back down and it shuts off agian in the 3000+ range.

    I shot today with my rifle tethered for the first time, wow, that is the way to go for range duty.

    Regards,

    Roachcreek

    #133359
    dan-h
    Participant
    quote roachcreek:

    Dan, Tof,

    I just rebuilt my replacment Shoebox yesterday for the 2nd time, the first one I had rebuilt maybe 5 times.

    I have gotten to the point now that I do the lower cylinder first, it seems the inner o ring wants to break more often and cause the early shut off or no charging.

    The first rebuild is intimidating, and then after you do it once you see how truely simple they are. But itis the nature of the machine that you have to rebuilt it, a lot.

    This time it was shutting off early, all the orings were fine, the end of the upper cylinger check valve seal had a lot of depostis, so I guess that is what did it this time, but once cleaned and orings replaced and together again it runs like a champ.

    I do have to moniter this one closely at shutoff time tho, this one will shut off at 3500 PSI, if I so very slightly adjust the shut off collar, it will go way past 4500 PSI, try to get it back down and it shuts off agian in the 3000+ range.

    I shot today with my rifle tethered for the first time, wow, that is the way to go for range duty.

    Regards,

    Roachcreek

    Charlie what material should i get my accurate mold made out of , i was thinking of having a 3 cavity mold made with your 1= 430 b and 2=145 small one that Marvin likes , all in the same mold , 15 bucks extra is what it cost ,

    i just had to change my orings again this morning , on the shoebox it broke one last night ,

    #133360
    roachcreek
    Participant

    Dan,

    There is a big learning curve while doing this.

    Heat is a friend and a foe to casting. It is important to keep your lead the correct temp, but at the same time keep your mold from getting so hot that it cools too slow and you smear lead under the sprue plate. A casting thermometer is very important.

    I like to cast with two or more molds personally when I cast, that way it allows me to sit one mold down and fill another, that change over time allows the mold to cool enough to open.

    Aluminum heats fast, but cools fast also, it can be dificult to use and it damages easily, many aluminum mold makers recomend you lube the top of the mold and sprue plate, this must be done carefully to avoid wrinkled bullets,.

    Iron molds heat up slower and also retain the heat longer, and they do not damage as easily.

    Bronze molds I have never used so I can’t tell you.

    So what does this all mean? Well for me, it means that I will probably have only one design of bullet per mold, and I choose aluminum, but I have done this for a while. For a beginner, I would get the iron mold, it is more forgiving, and I would get one for the heavy bullet design and one for the lighter design. Multiple cavity molds really put out the bullets, but the pour is more tedius to get a propper fill.

    To avoid damage, open and close you molds slowly, remember they are hot and soft as a result, only use wood or a rawhide mallet on your sprue late, never use abrasive materials like steel wool to remove lead buildup, I like to either poor lead on lead buildup and let it bond and set up and the let the lead just fall off, or use a old towel to wipe it away while hot and soft.

    Clean your new mold throughly with alcohol, and then smoke the cavity with a lighted match or bic lighter to put a layer of black soot on it, Your first casting session will yeild few good bullets, your just breaking the mold in. Ask Tom what he recommends for a new mold.

    And remember, safty glasses, welders gloves and adequate ventalation.

    So if I were you I would get two iron molds for now. 😆 Took me a long fucking time to say that.

    Regards,

    Roachcreek

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