February 19, 2008 at 4:05 pm #1573
I would really like to see you wood experts put a tutorial together highlighting the various designs and tools used along the way.
It is an overwhelming project in my mind and so cannot get my head around starting.
Sure would appreciate some hints and pics 🙂
Walter….February 19, 2008 at 4:42 pm #34365rabbitsParticipant
have a look one here walter mate this was my last project http://www.freewebs.com/mitchejc/OtherStocks/StevenBrownAA200StockProjectPart1And2.pdfFebruary 19, 2008 at 4:54 pm #34366
Practice, there is no quick way of doing them. I started with rasps and files. But have bought tools to make things faster.
1. Design: i use a drawn up template either of paper or thin plywood/ masonite/ shower board.
2. rough out: i have used a band saw, jig saw, and table saw to rough the piece out.
3. inletting: for me is done on the table saw 1/2″Wx5/8″D for the trigger mech housing and 1/2″Wx 3/16″D for the foregrip. Depending on the foregrip design mine is usually stepped from the trigger mech housing to the rail. A router with straight cutting bit will work as well. I’ve used the same bit in a drill press to square the step up, after cutting it on the table saw.
4. Shaping: i first started with rasps, files, pvc tubing cut to 2″L and wrapped with sand paper. I have since purchased a drum sanding kit which works nice. I do alot of shaping with a drill and the drums now instead of the rasps and files. Bandsaw and Table saw are still used in this stage to create bevels, miters for the foregrips.
5. finishing consists of sanding alot by hand up to 320g i use the drums, random orbital sander as much as possible.
Next piece i start i’ll try to do a post with pics on the topic. Its been a lot of trial and error for me. I’m just starting to get comfortable at doing them and i’ve done a few sets now and couple of stocks. Some still in the finishing stages.February 19, 2008 at 5:56 pm #34376walkonkingParticipant
Your stuff is looking better all the time. Having the right tools makes life easier and cuts down on time. Of course experience is what really is he best time saver and it is obvious as your work progresses.
Keep up the good work.February 19, 2008 at 6:29 pm #34381
I appreciate the compliment WOK, experience says alot, i’ve shown all my work as i’ve gone along. Added tools which helps, but its getting a feel for doing it, that you can’t gain unless you do it a few times. Thats the biggest asset in the whole process. I have a couple more pieces that will be ready for pics soon. Then it’ll be time for some thing new.February 19, 2008 at 9:24 pm #34404rabbitsParticipant
the main thingu need for doing stock,s and grips is a clear head and take your time u will make mistake,s if u try to be smart and rush it or u might nacker up all your hard workFebruary 19, 2008 at 10:29 pm #34415
Thank you fellas, Rabbits and Bodi.
I guess I gotta give ‘er a go and see what learnings are waiting eh?!
Got some Birch railing and post ends to play with. Picked up a SurForm round and flat rasp for starters. Was wondering about those rotary rasps if used in a die grinder? I have a Makita electric die grinder……
Anything will be better than the hammer handle wood that is now my grip and forearm 🙂
Walter….February 20, 2008 at 3:09 am #34439riffraffParticipantquote Voltar_1:
Those rotary rasps might work ok in the diegrinder, but dont waste your time trying a drill. 😉
The only suggestion I have for you, is use cheap wood to start. Go slow and pay attention to what your tools are doing. Test fit often, as you can easily remove too much wood without realizing it. Once you have the method down, build your stock.
My plywood stock is working great, but it is ugly as Lamas new name.
I have almost talked the wife into buying a laminate blank. When I do, I will take my time.February 20, 2008 at 1:29 pm #34469
The rotary rasps would depend on the cut of the rasps, might tear up the wood some if really coarse. Seriously, especially with Birch a drum sanding kit or the 3/4″, 1″ drums and 60grit will really do the job well after the initial rough out. 3/4″ works great for finger grooves, 1″ for thumbrest, trigger finger rest, beavertail at rear of grip if designed into the grip. The grip is where all the work is, the foregrip can be pretty easy to do. If you have an idea put it down on paper/ cardboard and take a pic, be easier to steer you in the right direction if we knew what your after.February 20, 2008 at 10:51 pm #34525riffraffParticipant
Yea when I did my plywood stock, I used a dremel with the 5/8″ drum sanders on the grip area. It was still almost too fast, but it worked well.
The big and flat sanding I did at work on a 14″ disk sander. Had to be careful as that thing will eat wood for lunch. I can literally grind a 24″ piece of 2×4 end to end in about a minute with that thing.February 22, 2008 at 6:28 am #34670
Fellas, I’ll post a pic tomorrrow as I made some headway.
Really enjoying this and am changing my opinion of wood!
Got the grip about 75% done and forearm cut to size with slot milled out
Thanks to all of you for the tips and encouragement to make wood chips
Walter….February 22, 2008 at 6:35 am #34671marcParticipant
I know what you mean. To me to, wood is a necessary evil 😕
But it can be relaxing to sometimes do some woodworking and don’t have to be worried about tolerances.
At least I can chuck the plank in the milling vice and do some accurate machining for inletting 😉
MarcFebruary 22, 2008 at 7:30 pm #34716
Here are some pics of my efforts. Along with the current setup of 9mm and some projectiles. 000 buckshot at 0.360″, 125 grain Speer RN as purchased and in the background as sized to suit my barrel.
Shiny 125grain hardcast bullets as purchased and as sized to 0.358″ to fit my Career 9mm barrel. 160fpe so far with the bullets.February 22, 2008 at 8:31 pm #34720walkonkingParticipant
Much better Walter!
That looks a lot nicer. Now get a trigger guard on that thing.February 23, 2008 at 3:35 am #34747photo22Participant
That is starting to look great 😀
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