Will tophat take a beating and become distorted if …..

Im still trying to keep the valve open a wee bit longer on my condor to get more fps from my arrow mod. barrel. If I install a stiffer hammer spring and or heaver hammer will the tophat get distorted from the heavier strikes over time? Also is there a special tool I need to turn the tophat out without maring it? with the set allen screws removed it doesnt want to turn and I don’t like forceing things.
I read the quickref pages but the top hat is not cooperating.

thanks in advance for any suggestions.

Airforce Rifles/Pistols

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The guy I got my condor from sent a lot of extra parts springs,baffels,0rings and such. the larger springs are obvoiusly hammer springs but there are some smaller ones from Century spring comp. that I suspect are valve springs. when Im alittle more educated and confident I will get Inside the tank and lighten that spring. I’ve even read about some guys removeing it altogether (NOT THAT BRAVE YET!). Im still scaning this site for information about removeing the valve mechanism. I suspect I can bleed the tank with the scuba adapter and go slow and methodical from there. I have a healthy respect for these guns especially the tank and the pressure It holds.
Thanks again guys for all the support you and this site give.

You could also remove the valve return spring on the inside of the valve to a lighter one, not by much, just a little lighter. This will allow the valve to open easier with the same amount of force your using now. Only do this if you feel confident in taking your valve apart. By the sound of things you should be able to do this. I’m not a big fan of heavier hammers either. And my 100g hammer and factory spring don’t like each other to much, spring is slow to get the hammer traveling. My thought is that 75g is about the maximum weight for the factory hammer spring. You can go higher but lock time suffers and the spring/hammer combo lack that punch you get with a lighter combination. You have to ask yourself what forces are involved in the valve to keep it shut or open it. Its the Valve spring and the air in the tank which keep things closed. What opens it is a weight propelled by the compressive force of a hammer spring, to overcome the pressure in the tank and the valve spring which keep it closed. I leave the rest to you, but in my mind lightening the valve spring is working the problem from a different direction. By reducing the amount of force needed to open the valve. Although not many believe the same as i do, it makes perfect sense to me.

Should you ruin one of the “grub” screws and need to replace one of them in the top hat, or for the frame-barrel, rember that in the USA, they are called set screws. Grub screw is a UK thing. LOL!!!

It will make finding them a lot easier. No one in the fastner industry in this country is likley to know what a grum screw is. Only lousy food,(Grub) and worms (grubs) are called this in this country. It’s also another work for digging here.

We are seperated by a comon language!

Thank you and bless you. I will try all that on the top hat to losen it. Also thanks for the warning about the possible trigger problems from the heavier hammer spring. makes sense.

If you have the grub screws in the top hat backed out the top hat should turn freely. You might try some silicone spray on the stem/top hat then cover the stem in layered cloth and with a pliers grip the top hat. Another avenue would be to heat the top hat with a hair drier and try the cloth plier’s thing. It sounds like some adhesive got onto the stem threads. Adhesive would be from the top hat set screw thing. Might have thrown a burr with the grub screw. Also check the Stem ID for dents from the grub screws.

You can try more hammer weight if you want. I’m not a big fan of heavy striker springs because you run the risk of later trigger issues.

There shouldn’t be any issues with beating up the top hat.
Hope that’s of some help.


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