What does it mean?
Ok, I got a chrony last week and spent alot of time adjusting the tophat. Moved it all around from .068 to .080, but every shot string basically went from way low, to way high.
Do your shot strings basically start at a certain speed and ONLY go down?
Mine goes from low to high, over a very long spread.
I tried WalkonKings method, which seems to be well accepted, but these are some results. All these were done with .22 Kodiaks, PW@10, and 2900 psi fill (there are alot more gaps i tried, but they all have the same trend):
tophat at .068:
827.1
860.1
852.2
882.6
891.7
0
0
915.2
913.9
920.6
939.3
950
972.4
954.2
958.2
970.1
969.6
1000
990.5
1000
997.4
tophat at .070:
0
820.7
826.4
869.2
0
887.1
0
892.9
902.8
915.6
897.3
898
932.1
909.1
951.2
948.8
954.2
952.3
938.7
976.9
981.8
tophat at .072:
850
0
978.8
904.9
914.5
920.7
938.5
930.7
936.6
949.1
925.2
969.1
976.9
968
992.9
982.9
1011
1010
1007
1009
1008
1031
1029
1039
1028
1038
1041
They all just keep going up, even past the 27th shot. Does that mean the tank was overfilled? Or do I need more power wheel pre-load?
I’m still a newbie. I’m frustrated because I cant get it to shoot consistently and I havent been able to hunt anything with it after a few weeks 🙁
Thanks for any help.
All Replies
Viewing 9 replies - 1 through 9 (of 9 total)
You can take your gun out and shoot it all day. If you did not have a chrony, which most people do not, you would notice a slight change in the point of impact as you shot and would aim accordingly.
Because you are shooting over a chrony you are wanting to fine tune the gun. It is machine and material and tolerances as well as temperature will have an affect. It is the same in firearms and firearms often have to be tuned to get the best performance and consistency from them.
Just be glad you do not have a $2000 Daystate or Rapid and have to send it to the gunsmith to get it to work right.
Your going to have to control your fill pressure to get that smooth bell curve you want. All PCP’s with have a bell curve in abscense of a regualtor.
Just because you can fill to 3000psi does not mean you have to. I fill several of my guns around 2850psi so I do not have the low shots up front.
Here’s my thoughts on the fills, my tank is a 80 CuFt alum. filled to 3100. I’m guessing i will get two full 3000psi fills then start to fall off. I am going to use this falling off curve of my scuba tank to find the “sweet spot” for MY gun. btw I know two of the exact same guns can and sometimes do like totally different ammo. BUT is it an indication of sloppy manufacturing tolerances for not have a basic baseline to start from? I don’t know.
There are so many varibles in each gun to effect its function there is no “Cook Book” settings. You need to have a chrony and some pellets and air. Leave the top hat alone if you wish and use the PW to get the most velcocity starting with it low and moving it up until it reaches it maximum affect.
Your going to have to control your fill pressure to get that smooth bell curve you want. All PCP’s with have a bell curve in abscense of a regualtor.
Just because you can fill to 3000psi does not mean you have to. I fill several of my guns around 2850psi so I do not have the low shots up front.
For example on my talon with a 12″ barrel my power setting was 3-11. When I went to a 16″ bbl and tuned valve my PW setting is 7.
Once you get your PW and Tophat balanced your shot will become more consistent. If you are shooting a Condor start with a 2800psi fill and see what you get.
What you are seeing in your shot string is a bell curve. Due to the pressure in the valve it is harder for the hammer to open the valve. As you shoot and release the pressure the valve opens easier and more gas allowed out of the valve giving you more velocity.
It is apparent your gun hauls ass. Now you just need to fine tune it and tame it a bit.
WOK, I have a “Bone stock” Condor. Is it better to start off with the P.W. at 3-1 and go from there or set it right in the middle for the most range up or down? Also that .072 top hat setting looks good to this newbie. Would of liked to see what happened after another 20 shots. I want a nice smooth bell curve to use for hunting. I was thinking of setting mine to shoot C.P.’s as close to 1000 F.P.S. as possible. Say starting at 950, peaking at 1000 then falling off. What/where do you think i should start off with as far as P.W., T. H. settings? P.S. Today (in an hour and a half) i’m heading to our indoor range with our new chrony to try it out with beeman crow magnums. To get a baseline of where i’m at. Then i’ll need to do it all over again for the C.P.’s
Adam,
Like that approach. The PW isn’t linear.
Good way to get going. Plenty of time later to mess around. 😉
I move the PW until no further velocity increase is noted. Then it stays put. Proceed to the top hat and set that. Then that stays put.
Then shoot your gun and to your hearts content
So are you saying I will have to move the power wheel every time I shoot from a fresh tank? or that just that while its being tuned, then it gets locked in and not messed with?
Try starting your power wheel at 3 and take a shot and then move it up progessively until your shots are about the same fps. Then use adjust the top hat to fine tune your gun.
For example on my talon with a 12″ barrel my power setting was 3-11. When I went to a 16″ bbl and tuned valve my PW setting is 7.
Once you get your PW and Tophat balanced your shot will become more consistent. If you are shooting a Condor start with a 2800psi fill and see what you get.
What you are seeing in your shot string is a bell curve. Due to the pressure in the valve it is harder for the hammer to open the valve. As you shoot and release the pressure the valve opens easier and more gas allowed out of the valve giving you more velocity.
It is apparent your gun hauls ass. Now you just need to fine tune it and tame it a bit.
Viewing 9 replies - 1 through 9 (of 9 total)
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.
I’m dyin to go. Waitin for the range to open.