Washer size makes a big difference

The bushings look A LOT like this 😆

Yup 180 degree screws would be better…holes that the screws don’t even touch would be A LOT better…if you put a rod in the barrel and then tighten your bushing screws you’ll see the rod move back and forth as you tighten/loosen them…there are issues with the o-rings on long barrels THX1138 came up with these originally and shared the idea with us and when used on 12″ barrel worked great, 24″ barrel squished the o-rings and the barrel moved around. There are solutions like moving the front bushing to the front, using more o-rings etc. but that will be another thread.

It never occured to me to try and stiffen the frame from the grip! or to use a stock that took all the physical contact and let the frame/bottle “float”…mounting this 1 piece stock to the frame with o-rings maybe? 1/8-1/4” clearance all around so when the wood warps some.

This is going to be COOL to see you make Bod!

Jim.

Triggerman,
Found about the same thing re. opening size but as noted one needs to try to keep things centered. A good stripping device helps a bit as well along with muffling material. Course there are all sorts of way to configure.

I’ll post them in the general area

If it was pegged with a grub screw i’d think it would be OK. I’ll post a pic of what i have drawn up, it would defineately take care of the frame flex, which was goal 1, then 2 it has to be pleasing to the eye, 3 be relatively easy to fabricate 😕 . I’m doing the grip and foregrip i have planed for it now. The whole stock would be 25-26″ or so maybe skeletonized, but not necessary, more for decoration. I have a Walnut blank for it, i may cut it out this weekend depending on the feedback i get from posting the pics. May also close the trigger guard for added rigidity?? I’ll try to get the pics up later tonite.

I have something drawn up on a piece of plywood, full stock. I was going to leave the trigger guard open, do you think a closed section would help? Attaching points would be standard grip screw location and the current trigger guard screw hole with a free floated foregrip extending out from there. Its a very sound design i think in terms reinforceing the frame, i think it looks pretty slick. I’ll send you a pic of the full drawing. Its to scale. All i have to do is cut out the template from the drawing which has the frame, tank and scope rail drawn on as well. Been working on the design awhile. I know where the week point is now as you do, the design i believe would really reinforce the frame. I’ll snap a pic later today and send it too you. Been working on the grip and foregrip for it but in 2 pieces, just trying to settle on a design which is funtional, good looking and easy to reproduce.

Most would agree with the fouling pattern seen in some pellet changes. I’ve experienced the same with my TSS. Don’t forget some pellets will never shoot well out of an AF rifle or LW barrel hard to say weather its a combination of the gun and barrel or a single phenomena, like barrel twist rate, or how the barrel is mounted in our guns. A persons best bet is find two or three pellets which shoot well and stick with them. CPs, JSBs Predators, Beemans Kodiaks, field targets specials, believe it or not Gamo’s hunters shoot well for me. Eun Jins are good if you can get them up to speed, in a stock TSS they shoot all over the place, get them to 850/900 fps or so and they shoot well, probably the best pellet, weight combo for the Condor. I only buy Kodiaks and JSBs or one of the relabeled brands like wolverines for BSA. Airguns of Airizona has their own label which is rumored to be JSB as well. I have tried out alot of different labels only to find out after 20 or so shots that the pellet is junk silver arrows, ram jets are two which are unreliable at distance. Any of the crossmans other ten the CPs seem to be junk. JSB’s predator pellet is the most accurate pellet i’ve ever shot, but @ $13/14 for a tin of 200 they better shoot well. All experience has been with the .22 calibur, .177, .20, .25 pellets and accuracy will vary.

In concerns to shooting new pellets through your gun its a good idea to have them lubed. I have a empty tin which has a sponge from the predator pellets. I have this sponge saturated with gun oil FP-10 set in the bottom of the tin, in goes the pellets i’m going to shoot, or test, on top goes the other sponge also with some oil applied to it. Put the lid on and shake lightly so as to coat the pellts with the oil. This helps alot with friction and fouling of the barrel.

Alot of variables come into play in concerns to pellets and accuracy. I for one woud like to see a o-ring groove cut into our barrel bushings for a free floated barrel, maybe the bushing held with one grub screw (bottom) with no thread in the bushing. More like a peg or dowel type of fit, just to keep the barrel from moving forward or backward. I believe this would help alot with the frame flex issue and some other inaccuracy issues we commonly see. The current 2 point fixed barrel is geomectricly wrong from the start and can’t help accuracy. I look at it this way, we have a circle frame, bushing and barrel and 2 securing points 90 degrees to each other?? Wouldn’t 180 degrees be a better bet? Or the above mentioned free floated method be a more accurate way of keeping the barrel in place?

Well, i could go on, but have thrown out some ideas for you guys to try. Lube your pellets and you’ll see better accuracy guaranted, keeps your barrel cleaner as well. Anyone with the capability to cut a o-ring groove for a free floated barrel, i’d like a set to try and test out with a securing grub screw on the bottom. I would think our stock bushings would be just fine as they would now not come into contact with the frame. The o-ring would absorb any inconsistencies in the frame or bushings. Let me know what you guys think after trying some of this.

Kodiaks are tempermental in my gun too. I think every pellet must leave a small fouling deposit which eventually leads to consistency. Different shapes and lead alloys leave different patterns in the barrel, and of course no barrel is the same so… results may vary.

A perfectly clean barrel is only consistent for one shot, which is why you have to shoot a couple rounds to get a clean barrel shooting correctly again. Same thing sometimes happens when switching pellets, the fouling pattern needs to re-develop.

Change is good, if you can handle all the crazyness that comes with it! Stick with the Kodiacs. Very consistent ammo. Beware of dirty pellets, they can raise all kinds of hell!