Valve Modification a must read
Originally posted on the TOG and now presented in it entirety for everyone to have. Please make a copy and feel free to save it for future reference!
Been working on this and it could use some more work so please forgive any typos etc. Might need clarifications etc. Hope you enjoy it and it proves useful.
Valve Modification by Robert & Mike: Part One 11-05, updated 07
The issue: Some owners have found their rifles will not deliver full power from the first shot or first several shots if they started with a 3000/~200+ psi/bar tank fill. The following valve modification has the objective of delivering more air to the pellet faster with faster lock time and smoother delivery of air flow out of the air cylinder. Please keep in mind the valve works in conjunction with other components in the rifle, subjects for other discussions. The parts discussed are standard parts found in the Talon or Condor.
Ok lad’s I’ll try and put it down in words, how to modify the Talon valve system to achieve better consistency performance from the first shot with a 3000 psi fill.
You might want to go to the TOG gallery for pictures of the valve and valve pieces and or visit http://www.stealthresource.org/valve.htm .You will find a number of pictures in the TOG if the gallery is up.
Remove the valve from the tank assembly after draining all of the air from the tank. DO NOT attempt to remove the valve assembly unless ALL of the air pressure has been released from the tank. Think safety always. You can use your fill adapter to drain all pressure from the tank. Drain the tank slowly. Removing the valve from the tank, (another thread)..
Ok, we have a standard valve assembly in front of us. Strip it down completely.
Stem
Ok lets get started with the valve stem; drill the ID of the stem to 3.2 mm, (~1/8â€
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I have done the same with my Talon valve and a couple of others. I have gained near 100fps with each one. Just thought i’d add some pics to make things clearer. Changing out he spring can help gain full power on shot one. More consistency from shot to shot with the stock 48g hammer. I saw little improvement with the power wheel from 10-1 if anything it can be used to fine tune your shot to shot consistency, but thats about it.
here is a pic of the spring difference heavier one is stock. The lighter one should still be stiff, just so you can depress it with your fingers, no heavier no lighter.
here is the full assembly of pieces you’ll be working with.
spring seat of retainer drilled to just hold the spring in place. Stock one is on the right.
Spring retainer from bottom after drilling i used a 3/8″ then a 1/2″ bit to create a funnel. Stock one is obvious, the bit in front of it all is a dremel polishing bit, rubber with fine grit polishing abrasives impregnated into it. This is a major reason why the mod works as the pic. shows.
Stem in vice drilled out to 3.2mm some go as big as 3.3, i left a bit extra for strength. The 2 port hole should be opened up a bit with a needle file and made into ovals to accept more air.
Every bit should be polished for frictionless (as possible) travel. Pic. is one stock and one polished. I got some polishing cloths in 4 grits from Mikemv and he will not tell me wherre he got it. The finest grit can polish arcrylic its awesome stuff.
If you want a little extra thump from your Talon or TSS 100fps is possible maybe more i got 100fps kodiaks around 830-840fps JSBs over 900fps. It will take no longer than an afternoon. Hope the pics help, have fun.