VALVE HELP
got an older talon tank, want to remove the valve for polishing. Problem is the valve is excessivlely tight. Anyone know an “easy” way to get the valve loose from the tank? Don’t want to resort to pipe wrench and valve damage.
Thanks
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Thanks guys, used combined feedback from WOK & BD, monkey wrench and steady pressure wasn’t getting results without me worrying about valve/tank damage. I removed the burst disk and found it to be threaded 3/8 NF. Instead of a rod in the non threaded hole, I screwed a 3″ grade 8 bolt into the hole for the burst disk. Heated the neck of the tank in boiling water per BD then clamped in the vise with WOK’s “magazine soft jaws”; smacked the end of the bolt counterclockwise a couple times and VOIOLA! Valve broke loose and no damage to anything.
Did the same, except I got nowhere with the magazines, keep slipping too much. Ended up using a welder’s cloth for a firm grip. Took me a couple dozen smacks with a 5lb hammer in order for it to break loose. Once off, I noticed what appeared to be thread compound on it. If this thing seals with an O-ring why does Godzilla torque it down? Seems like overkill.
My guess is for LIABILITY PURPOSES when manufactured and sold by AF to discourage “tampering” by “untrained personnell”. Totally unnecessary
Thanks guys, used combined feedback from WOK & BD, monkey wrench and steady pressure wasn’t getting results without me worrying about valve/tank damage. I removed the burst disk and found it to be threaded 3/8 NF. Instead of a rod in the non threaded hole, I screwed a 3″ grade 8 bolt into the hole for the burst disk. Heated the neck of the tank in boiling water per BD then clamped in the vise with WOK’s “magazine soft jaws”; smacked the end of the bolt counterclockwise a couple times and VOIOLA! Valve broke loose and no damage to anything.
Did the same, except I got nowhere with the magazines, keep slipping too much. Ended up using a welder’s cloth for a firm grip. Took me a couple dozen smacks with a 5lb hammer in order for it to break loose. Once off, I noticed what appeared to be thread compound on it. If this thing seals with an O-ring why does Godzilla torque it down? Seems like overkill.
Could someone take a picture of what you guys are talking about?
Unthreaded 7/16 hole in socket, for pin a 3/8nf grade 8 threaded into the valve collar in place of the burst disk. no slack that way.
Yeah, but only if the pin was solid. If it had any slop it would just elongate the hole while breaking it loose.
I was thinking used socket from pawn shop for a couple bucks, dimentions would vary but be of little consequence. being able to “bump” the valve loose with an air impact should be easily doable without even putting the tank in a vise.
How thick is the wall on the socket? Isnt it hardened? I was thinking you could put the valve end in the vise and use a strap wrench on the bottle. That should allow you to get it out without damaging anything.
Who would be interested and what would be reasonable for a cost?
💡 How about a 1/2 drive deepwell socket that will just slip over the valve collar, with your hole drilled/tapped to allow a pin to be screwed through into the hole in the valve collar. This would make a common 1/2 ratchet a suitable tool for leverage (or the lazy way, air tool…….BRRP.)
Your idea gave me the idea. good one. 😀
Maybe I should make up a batch of valve removal tools? Something like a round collar with two flats to mount in a vice or big wrench? I could drill a side hole and thread it for a pin to slide into the hole on the side of the valve.
Who would be interested and what would be reasonable for a cost?
pipe wrench without protection = GOUGES not scratches.
Thanks guys, used combined feedback from WOK & BD, monkey wrench and steady pressure wasn’t getting results without me worrying about valve/tank damage. I removed the burst disk and found it to be threaded 3/8 NF. Instead of a rod in the non threaded hole, I screwed a 3″ grade 8 bolt into the hole for the burst disk. Heated the neck of the tank in boiling water per BD then clamped in the vise with WOK’s “magazine soft jaws”; smacked the end of the bolt counterclockwise a couple times and VOIOLA! Valve broke loose and no damage to anything.
Why not just take it off with a pipe wrench? If you are going to be polishing it when you get it off, I wouldn’t think a few scratches would matter.
WoK, got a pic to post? I have a visual idea of what you’re describing, just want to be sure.
Thanks guys, try the additional leverage technique after work today.
The tank I am working on does not have the second hole (only the one for the burst disk).. Same technique, first removing burst disk? putting bolt through “collar” into the threads where the disk would normally be?
Appreciate the advise. Thanks
That will work fine.
Just remember a big ole plumbers Monkey wrench works wonders and if that is still hard to move then slip a piece of pipe over the handle to give you more leverage…It will come off. Leverage wins!
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I’ve been putting the tank into 11 oz. leather from here in the leather shop at Lovett knives. Then using a very large Channel lock wrench with one of those rubber jar lid openers around the valve body neck. Works just fine. No slipping. No scars!
Mike