Trigger Modification Instructions

Walk on King has been nagging me to post this here…

Just a small how-to guide based on info I got from other members. Not my idea’s or anything. This is my Third iteration, if anyone has copies of 1 or 2 I’d very much appreciate being sent a copy.

Yellow Ninja’s Air Force Airgun Trigger Modification Instructions
V 1.02 – 8/25/07

WILL VOID ANY WARRANTY!!!!

Please do not attempt if you are unfamiliar with basic shop work and procedures or do not understand how a trigger works. Use at your own risk of damage to the gun
Two holes drilled into the rifle to give –

Over travel * – Allows adjustment so that trigger movement stops right after the sear has been released – located on the underside of the frame.

* Appears to be already drilled on newer (and some older) frames

Preload – Reduces the length of the first stage – Located above the trigger. Can also be used to take up some of the second stage but that isn’t safe in my opinion. I have mine adjusted to have a small amount of first stage before any other trigger components start moving and beginning the actual firing cycle of the trigger, so that the trigger moves a small amount, and if released before starting the 2nd stage leaves the trigger in a safe state. Adjusting this so that there is NO 1st stage is unsafe and can lead to the gun going off without warning.

Holes are drilled with matching 10-32 tap and drill bit and off the shelf 10-32 set screws are used. I used a 3/16th for the Preload and a 3/8th for the Over Travel. That gave me the shortest necessary with plenty of adjustment and not have something sticking out too far (especially important with the preload adjustment, which if too long can catch on the breech slide).

Where to Drill

As you can see from the diagram above the holes are drilled using the pre existing cutouts as a guide. No measuring required. I removed my trigger from the gun before drilling the preload adjustment just to reduce any risk of damaging it as replacements are hard to find as of right now. I HIGHLY recommend using a drill press for this, but if you feel comfortable then a hand drill can be used with good results also. Just drill the hole in the first circular cutout in front of the trigger blade as shown in the picture. DOUBLE check the position, looking at all the other pictures in this file before drilling.

The over travel is drilled through the bar underneath the trigger parts. Using the gun as a template mark where the hole should appear according to the picture on the left and then drill. Make sure the part is supported by something underneath (piece of wood etc) because they can bend easily. Also take care when tapping the thread for the same reason.

Picture after the Over Travel Hole has been drilled and tapped showing the Pre Load Screw. The Trigger was removed, the pin sticking out of the bottom of frame is the one used to retain trigger.

Trigger bar showing what it will look like after the Over Travel hole has been drilled and tapped along with the 10-32 set screw above it.

Gun with the Modified trigger bar installed. You can see in the Preload picture above that it matches up with the circular cut out.

Adjusting

(This diagram is just to give an idea of how the added adjustment screws interact. I have been advised that the layout for the safety may be incorrect in new versions of AF gun’s. Please note correct component positions on YOUR gun BEFORE removing any part’s)

As you can see from Air Forces Patent drawing both adjustment screws act on the same part. Over tightening both screws can damage your trigger. Make sure there is SOME movement of the trigger; otherwise you risk not only breaking the trigger, but you will likely have an unsafe trigger. When adjusting the trigger do it WITHOUT a bottle attached to the gun and make small adjustments. Use Loctite or similar to keep the set screws in place.

Adjust one screw at a time. I start with the Over Travel. Keep tightening the screw so that it goes IN until you have limited movement of the trigger after the sear releases. If you go too far then the gun will either hesitate when firing, or won’t fire at all. If that happens then adjust it OUT a small amount.

When adjusting the Pre Load extra care has to be taken as if it is over adjusted the trigger can be in an unsafe position where it is ready to go off with slightest touch. You need SOME first stage to ensure it’s a safe trigger. I don’t recommend nor suggest anyone adjust it to “lighten” the trigger and take up second stage to reduce the weight. Tighten the adjustment so that it goes IN, keep checking by pulling the trigger (No need to cock it) until you have a tiny bit of movement before it gets slightly harder to pull. If over adjusted you will be unable to cock the gun. Adjust it back out until you can cock the gun, and then keep going a small amount to give yourself some first stage.

The Result

The finished result should look like my Talon SS above and will result in a MUCH improved over stock trigger that doesn’t have a lot of first stage travel and stops right after the gun fires which will improve accuracy a great deal.