Q:

the stocks on & shooting

The bit finally came in and I’ve got her mounted 🙂 🙂
Here’s some pics

the extra 2″ in length has taking a bit to get use to when stocking and going for the shoulder, but it’s starting to work out. the bad thing about the stock is I can’t hit anything, last night I headed down to the stables to look for some rabbit, saw one at about 35 yards, took the shot and missed, reloaded missed again, at this time all rabbits in the field broke for the trees. walked back to the house for some apple slating miss, miss, and more misses, I checked the shroud, all clear. I then put some paper up to see were it was hitting – EVERYWHERE! so the shroud is clear & scope didn’t get bumped… ❓ ❓ then the lower half of my palm started cramping, could that be it, bad grip design? I think so. I’m going to pull it off and do some more shaping. We’ll se what happens..

Mods/Machinists

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Viewing 15 replies - 1 through 15 (of 15 total)

The area behind the grip seems to be key in getting a good fit to the hand. My grips come in around 7/8″-15/16″ on the backside where the web of the thumb and trigger finger sit. Get that area thinned down and fit the grip to the hand from there. It may well be salvageable, better to much stock left then to little. Looking forward to seeing the revised setup.

quote get the blue jay:

Bodi, and rabbits – the thought has crossed my mind more than once, but at times I’m a self hating gluten for mental pain and anguish, so I’m not giving up yet.
I’m going to keep playing around with it, isolate the two parts, remove most of the groves, and add a grip stop where the factory bump is at the back of the gip.
I’m pretty sure it will end up as a paper weight at some point, but I figure I’v got so much time in it that I might as well keep going and see what else I can learn.

don,t worry mate u will get there ,. 😀

Bodi, and rabbits – the thought has crossed my mind more than once, but at times I’m a self hating gluten for mental pain and anguish, so I’m not giving up yet.
I’m going to keep playing around with it, isolate the two parts, remove most of the groves, and add a grip stop where the factory bump is at the back of the gip.
I’m pretty sure it will end up as a paper weight at some point, but I figure I’v got so much time in it that I might as well keep going and see what else I can learn.

That was my thought, i just didn’t want to be the first to say it. The second one around is always a vast improvement. That way you can avoid the mistakes we have all made on our first attempts and incorporate the new ideas we wished we had thought of on the prior one.

One warning this never ends 😆 i and Rabbits are always coming up with something different then the last. Your first attempt looks alot better then mine was. One thing i have learned from doing this which has helped alot is down load the pics you like and the ideas you wish to incorporate into your own design. I and i believe Rabbits have some large folders of various grips/stocks which have caught our eyes, we’ve traded pics already. Scale them up to size on the computer and print. I take a known dimension from a grip pic with the gun like the rail or trigger guard size and scale up till they match what my guns dimension is. Now i have a printed template i cut out and transfer to a rigid material. I’ve used thick vinyl, thin plywood, masonite. If you like any of my work i’d be happy to send you some scaled drawing which you could work from?? PM me if interested and let me know which. The target style grip is a hard one to do first time around, but is a excellant anatomical grip I’ve done it in the walnut and the later cocobolo which has a larger thumb shelf. Be more then happy to send you a 4 sided detailed drawing with advice on what worked for me. A dremel is a nice little tool to have with burr bits, router bits, drum sanders in the sizes i’ve stated, diamond tiped bits for detal work like stippleing, palm chisels for carving, various rasps files, PVC tubes in a variety of dias for sanding finger grooves. I could go on the offer is out there. Let me know.

blue jay mate don,t think about it to much and get yourself another bit off wood and better the last attempt we all have wee mistake,s and that was what it was a wee one .better luck with the next one . 😀

Here goes:

Before

After

Before

After

Bodhisdad – no problem on being the barer of bad news.. I wont blame you for too long 😀

Blackwidowman – I took a look at your grips, but the pics were too small for me to see any detail in, could you post them here a bit bigger? I need all the visuals I can get, the only descent pistol grip I have is on the .357 and I don’t like the feel of it much.

O.K. Bodi I’m over it and have forgiving you comply 😆
thanks for pointing that out to me, I would of never though that little bit of presser could do something, but that’s why we’re all here.. to get to the bottom of these things. thank again

I’m glad you could figure it out. One thing I ask my self was why did’nt olympic shooter’s use finger grooves? I discovered that if finger grooves or not in the right place it puts your hand in the wrong place all the time and when I used a glove it made it real bad. I made an epoxy putty grip for my condor and after putting it on realised my hand was too low and figured it would be ok…wrong! I now have redone the grip and now it is nuch better.

http://www.airgunforum.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?t=17498&highlight=

You will notice on the grip pics how low the thumb rest is, it is much higher now and the finger grooves are gone.

Sorry bud, i really didn’t want to say anything, but thought you should know. From what i could see and your description, i figured that was the problem. A little sanding to free things up will solve the issue, I’d try to get the tank off the wood as much as you can, as well as the grip foregrip connection freed up if there is any binding. You’ll get it worked out, a cabinet file, half round rasp is what i used to use to shape the palm into the grip. I now use a drill and round drumsanders 3/4″ and 1″ for shaping Take a look at my grip pics i have posted and maybe you can incorporate some of the same shapes i have used from Rob’s grips, the grips fit the hand well. I just copied Rob’s set and learned alot about how the hand fits into the grip. They are well thought out designs in which i can grip my rig with 2 fingers thumb and trigger finger, because the tail of the grip wraps around the top of those two fingers. I posted them in the Gallery area, feel free to use the same shapes or swells, there is only so many that the hand can comfortably grip. I think they have all been used and we are all just re- inventing/ re- combineing grips to suit our own tastes, needs.. Thank WOK for opening my eyes to frame flex issues 😆 . I didn’t want to be right on this thread, but now you know the problem and can address it as needed.

Well… the accuracy issue is definitely the grip I’ve got hte stock grip back on, 3 shots and 3 apples dead, problem some what figured out.

It was too cold and rainy yesterday to do any shootin, but the suns out this morning and I’ll get to some testing here in a bit.

I think bodi hit it on the nose with the frame flex 🙁

the grip acutely “cams” against the forearm a bit witch could definitely twist thing up, I’ll have to work on that.

blackops – pellets are good old kodiaks, speed ? under 1116fps, valve is an early condor with no mods. and no there’s not any loose or missing screws, I’m kind of anal about stuff like that.

Blackwidowman – all I’ll admit to is I’m over 6′ 🙂
I do like the webbing, reaching thought, the grip definitely needs some palm relief in it and I need to the pinky around a bit, so as I’m doing that I’ll shorten the trigger reach up a bit.

Very nice work!

I’m 6’2″ and that butt would be too long for me by close to an inch. Unless you’re any taller I would shorten it near the bottle. At the pistol collar or where the wed of your hand rest should be closer to the frame inline with the center of trigger. It is likely you are streching your index too much to reach the trigger causing cramp to the lower part of your hand. Keep your pistol hand loose don’t grip hard and keep your forward hand near the trigger guard and both elbow againts your boddy, like an olympic shooter. It will keep you very steady.

That looks really nice!

Let us know what the accuracy issue is????? what pellets? what speed? what valve?

Are all the screws snug? any loose or left out from the stock work? barrel flopping around in there?

Jim.

Looks realy cool , like the wasted look of the stock ,should stain in to match nicely ,now get shooting rabbits before they multiyply hehe ! 😀

Just an idea, but take the stock off and put the factory grip back on and do a test that way. From a design stand point you could be flexing the frame when you are shouldaring the gun. It will flex right at the brech cut area, if that is the problem. If the set was one piece i’d think it much less likely to flex as there would be two connecting points holding the frame rigid in between the area the frame will flex at. I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but this may be happening. Could you dowel the foregrip and the stock as one unit? I’d swap out grips quick and double check, could be that the scope is off as much as it could be frame flexing?? Always a quessing game when we alter our setups. I think the grip looks great, but you’ve almost created a increased fulcrum point for frame flexation. You could also try shooting from a sand bag and barely shouldar the gun and see how it groups. I hope its just your scope out of adjustment.

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