TalonSS Trigger Question
I noticed on the forum there are pictures of the newer Talon SS trigger, but the safety spring is shown wrong I think. The pictures show the little spring on the other side of the safety rod. I’m real close to just dumping the safety anyway since it seems to be real sticky on mine.
Here’s how mine goes together:
Is this right?
Jim
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Viewing 14 replies - 1 through 14 (of 14 total)
I’ll admit, I was waiting for you to whack yourself in the knuckle (like I would have).
Thanks!
Jim
LOL…i did loose 2 springs…line everthing up press record…load the sears…and sproinnnnggg….out flew the first…stubborn and not learned i think said o well ill just continue shooting…sproooiiinnngg and the next one flew to god knows where….so with my 2 last spring i decided to tie them…now where did i put that high strenght bow thread….damn it…ohh ill just use a strip of a rag…people will understand….
anyhow i hope the clip gets the message through on how it works and where the loads on the components are…cause i didnt have a clue about it till i did the video 🙂
my triggers have been pretty good…stock..but the safety horrible hard to work…i have just removed the safety all together…when hunting the rifle is loaded but decocked until im about to take the shot…then i cock it…this way theres no way it can go off, not even if i by accident forgot to reset the safety
I did the same to my safety when I got it. Ive never had a misfire and It is easy enough to click off with the trigger finger alone. Just move your finger forward in the guard and let your fingernail give it a little push.
The edge of my trigger part is rounded slightly. It never “slips by” as a sear would, therefore a rounded edge is fine in this instance. It only moves in a very slight sliding motion as the trigger is pulled. Square/sharp here would cause undesirable wear or scraping.
Here’s a photo showing the maximum movement of the trigger:
The part that “breaks” as a sear definitely needs to be square and form a sharp corner as you state. The area that Cyg marked you definitely want to be square and sharp. With those, I try to end up with a corner that will shave my thumbnail.
Jim
I found that “cleaning up”, sandpaper, debur, and polishing of the bottom frame strap (the long slot that the safety sits in) made the biggest difference in smooth operation of the safety, I can click mine off with just trigger finger without changing grip on the gun much. I also polished the safety rod itself and added just a film of moly lube. No misfires yet and works nicely. Before this I had to use my thum to push the safety button
Nice video!
I’ll admit, I was waiting for you to whack yourself in the knuckle (like I would have).
Thanks!
Jim
i see you saw where i wanted to mod …its where the middle sear engages the hammer sear….the hammer sear puts pressure on the middle sear in an upwards direction..the little ledge there is all thats holding the hammer sear from snapping…from AF this sear is not allways perfect….making it a little deeper makes the hammer sear alot stronger and able to handle the forces of a strong spring…
for a regular talon or condor this shouldnt be a problem….unless the middle sear has gotten so rounded that it will slip on max preload…then squaring it off and making it a bit deeper will sort it out…
Shadoh,
The edge of my trigger part is rounded slightly. It never “slips by” as a sear would, therefore a rounded edge is fine in this instance. It only moves in a very slight sliding motion as the trigger is pulled. Square/sharp here would cause undesirable wear or scraping.
Here’s a photo showing the maximum movement of the trigger:
The part that “breaks” as a sear definitely needs to be square and form a sharp corner as you state. The area that Cyg marked you definitely want to be square and sharp. With those, I try to end up with a corner that will shave my thumbnail.
Jim
Not only should those surfaces be polished they should also be perfectly square. The edge of the mating surfaces should be sharp and crisp with no roundness or bevel. Again, squaring the edges to each other is a very important for a super crisp trigger break.
Rhoderman, the edge on that bar above looks like the edge has a bevel or roundness to it. It could just be the pic though.
Cyg, No Problem borrowing the pic. I’m a little unclear on what or where to mod based on what you are showing though.
I polished the snot out of the contact point where the trigger part hits the other part. (The next contact point to the left of the red mark in your picture)
I also polished the angled part that rides against the hammer. No sense in wear if you can avoid it. I did do a little touch up in the area you point out, but it was mostly polishing without changing any angles.
Another thing I did was change out the spring on the trigger portion to a lighter spring I had laying around. I can’t say I notice much of a difference, but that in itself might be why the trigger feels better.
Here’s a pic of the tip of the trigger piece after polishing:
Jim
Rhodermann i borrowed your excelent picture …. cause i wanted to show the modders where to file a little bit, when they go for strong hammersprings…hope its ok
dont put extra strong springs under the hammer sear and such theres no need…what keeps the rifle from firing is actually the “middle” sear….this has a tendency to round the edges, and on some rifles even dailing preload to max will no longer hold the hammer back….
if you file where the pink line is…just a little to create a little deeper notch…the hammer sear will no be able to break loose and fire…the oval hole in the hammer sear is made to take up any slack…when the hammer pushes on it it gets pushed back into the middle sear…and it will now hold much better, and the trigger will not change much, i couldnt feel any change at all…except no more missfires.
for those adventurous of us you can even lighten the hammersear spring so it only just strong enough to pop up and hold the hamme….this lessens the drag on the hammer, and gives more power and better consistency
I flipped the pic over. Hope you didn’t twist up your cables on your monitor knifemaker…
Yeah, mine was better at one time. I cleaned everything, polished the contact surfaces, and put it back together with Moly in the right spots. Now the trigger is very nice; no more “twinky” spring sounds like before. For some reason, I can’t get the safety to slide any better though. I polished the contact points real well.
I like Bodhisdad’s idea of letting off the hammer to make it safe. That way there is absolutely no way of a misfire that might be safety related. I dumped the safety on the B-51, so I’m used to not having one.
Thanks all!
Jim
put the small spring sideways and that will hold the sear back if you want to be 100% sure remove the first spring from the left completely…thats how mines been done…i loose stuff….and this way all components are still in the rifle ready to go back to normal operations
I’ve had mine out for a couple of years now. If you do pull it, pull all of it, incliding the linkage piece. Which will slide around and lock up if you don’t. Only possibilty of problems is the sear not locking which can be fixed one of two ways. 1. pull the sear spring and strech it just a fraction to increase the compressive strength. 2. Move the spring forward till its just over the edge of the sears blade, this increases the fulcrom point. This i believe only needs to be done with a heavier hammer, like 70g and up. Other wise step 1. should work fine.
The safety is junk in alot of rigs, in my case it would misfire when i pressed the safety forward. Now i just move the brech forward, depress the trigger releasing the sear and control the hammer/brech assembly to a resting state again. Safest safety for these rigs, the factory safety in my rig was a false sense of security. Was just a matter of time before someone or something got the business end of my rig unintentionally.
Heck if I know. It being up-side down isn’t helping at all!!!Lol! I have heard that just pulling the safety alone can cause problems. But I in no way know one way or the other. I would like ti do away with it. At times it is almost impossible to disengage.
Viewing 14 replies - 1 through 14 (of 14 total)
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Good post on working the trigger mech. Although i haven’t removed any material from my assembly. I did go over the whole group with a file, just squaring and deburring carefully. In less then 24hrs my rig failed to cock and being a newbie it was a handfull for me to do. But it worked and greatly improved my trigger asembly. Safety worked fine for a few months then started to give me trouble. At the time it was the norm to remove the safety instead of rework the assembly. Might have to remove a little material from the middle sear and see how that affects my placement of the sear spring. I’m running with a 75g hammer, so my sear was slipping from time to time, by moving that spring backward i’ve never had a slip since. I do like how removing the material allows for a deeper bite, taking stress off the sear, pretty much oppossite of moving the spring back. But i would say removal of material taking stress off of the sear would be the best route and something i’ll have to do next time i have my assembly out. Also a light sanding with fine grit and good gun lube of all the pieces works wonders on the smoothness of the group. Doing this along with the two trigger mod screws has my group working as good as i could ask for in a AG trigger group. I have a small pre-travel and a positive click when the trigger is pulled, i know exactly when my trigger will break. Thanks to those who have posted the info, another reason to love this forum.