Talon SS – Making it quiet

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  • #1903
    mjohnson6565
    Participant

    Would I be better of buying a frame extender from http://www.frameextender.com and then adding some dampening material or just add the material to my existing shroud?

    Pros and Cons ?

    #37303
    mjohnson6565
    Participant

    Ok how about a review of the framextender ? Anyone?

    #37306
    walkonking
    Participant

    The frame extender is a hollow tube and it comes the an end capped. It secures with a grub screw. If you fill it with washers and spacers you can get it very quiet.

    #37310
    mjohnson6565
    Participant

    Thoughts on the one made by Bulls-Eye Bill?

    #37316
    walkonking
    Participant

    A friend of mine had one. Many will remember “Sacman”. He liked it and when shooting with him it worked fine. For the money it is fine. It really is just a 1″ hollow aluminum tube with an end cap and a square support for the barrel.

    Any thing else you want done to it you have to add yourself. It is not as quiet as the shroud I got from Tony but it does not cost as much either.

    #37329
    shrpshotr28
    Participant
    quote mjohnson6565:

    Thoughts on the one made by Bulls-Eye Bill?

    Good shroud for the money, surely there are better/more expensive out there. I have one on my tss with a 24″ .22cal barrel. No baffles, somewhat louder than the stock ss, but much quieter than an unshrouded bbl. After a trip to the hardware store it is now quieter than my original .177 tss and has lots more impact of course. Not completely silent. Similar to a lower powered paintball gun or pneumatic nailer. Could probably get better, haven’t taken the time to vent front barrel bushing or frame yet.

    See the quick reference section for much info on baffle setups.

    As you try baffling, the sound of these guns plays tricks. If you want to know how quiet it is, have someone else shoot your gun a few feet away. For some reason sound is louder to the shooter and hard to judge improvement.

    #37332
    mjohnson6565
    Participant

    Thanks for the info. I wish someone would try several of the suggested baffle setups to test which configuration works the best.

    #37333
    walkonking
    Participant
    quote mjohnson6565:

    Thanks for the info. I wish someone would try several of the suggested baffle setups to test which configuration works the best.

    What works best is a large chamber directly in front of the muzzle then several chambers decreasing in size. What those spaces are and how many is half the fun of figuring out what works best for you.

    #37335
    shrpshotr28
    Participant

    more “contained” air volume = quieter thus the benefit of the extender. Baffles enhance the effect. Your first baffle in the extender or the frame w/ stock barrel, will sit against the muzzle of the barrel and must be vented to the rear of the frame or you will loose a large volume of “contained air” and not be nearly as quiet.

    #37363
    mjohnson6565
    Participant

    Can you purchase the baffles vented anywhere?

    Also I have hear that using a vented baffle will cause blow back into the chamber causing bolt issues.

    #37366
    cygnus-x-d82
    Participant
    quote shrpshotr28:

    more “contained” air volume = quieter thus the benefit of the extender. Baffles enhance the effect. Your first baffle in the extender or the frame w/ stock barrel, will sit against the muzzle of the barrel and must be vented to the rear of the frame or you will loose a large volume of “contained air” and not be nearly as quiet.

    there should not be a baffel that rests against the muzzle this is like changing the crown…and can impact accuracy

    with a 24″ barrel and shourd venting the front bushing doesnt do much…its more of a mod for the SS where space is limited to begin with…of course everything helps but on the 24″ this would be the last i would do.

    venting the front bushing is no problem, air will be contained stopped at the rear barrel bushing..so no problems unless you vent the rear baffel too which would be stupid as air with lead particels would be blown out in your face…but the breech should not be affected…

    there is probably a golden setup that will be the best in the world…but people are from all over the world…and some stuff you can get everywhere and others you cannot….so the individual setups will differ from place to place….

    the rules are….

    1. more volume more silence…drilling the front bushing will increase volume, keeping the amount of material you stuff you silencer with to a minimum will keep volume at a max

    2. less resonance more silence…this is where baffels come in…these break up the sound, and by making the chambers seperated by baffels different sizes you can eliminate resonance…much like how you build a speaker case…..also fleece, foam, felt, sponges, 3m potscrubbing pads etc along the walls helps keep resonating waves to a minimum…again just like in speakers

    3. pressure drop more silence…baffels helps strip the pellet of the the air that has expanded behind the pellet….this lowers the pressure…the more baffels the more pressure gets soaked up….also the shape of the baffels can help strip air, or make it worse….a series of washers spaced closely by and oring for example works great in reducing pressure…

    2 and 3 eat up volume….and that conflicts with rule 1…so you have to strike a balance

    to begin with i would go by some 1″ washers with .25″ hole in them these should be readily available most places…then i would get a spring this is used to space the muzzle to the first baffel…i would try get one as close to 1″ OD as well….to space the rest of the baffels i would use something that cannot compress…and will keep everything lined up nicely…this can be a mousepad, any thick plastic that you can cut squarely and roll up, 1″ tubing what ever material you can find…cheap brooms with aluminum handles can be used…a little creativity goes a long way

    when all is assembled and its time to mount the endcap it is important that you feel the spring compress a bit, so your sure everting is tight…if your not using a spring just make sure nothing can move inside….then looks through the rifle from both ends…to see that the pellet has a clear path…you might be able to see some of the baffel…check that they are perfectly centeret this is easy to do by eye.

    fire a pellet into something soft at low poer and check the pellet for scratches that could be done by the baffels….if it looks ok…go zero the rifle and enjoy….remember the sound is louder to the shooter allways…so to confirm the silence try get a someone to fire the rifle while your standing 5-10y away….there should hardly be any sound heard….

    this one goes for both silencing an SS, in a shroud you just want to get baffels that fit the shroud…and then the first spacer from the bushing and forward needs to be much longer…you could also mount the first baffel with a screw from the outside…but his requiere a bit more work…and depending on the supplies you have acces to

    just allways check that everything lines up before shooting…60 fpe can easily dent or penetrate the shroud wall…sending pellet out the side and possibly injuring near by people.

    #37368
    shrpshotr28
    Participant

    Great post cyg.

    #37406
    knifemaker
    Participant

    Thanks for taking the time to post this C/X

    Mike

    #37407
    ironbrad
    Participant

    that’s a great post. it should be put into an FAQ and posted on the forum somewhere.

    #37489
    mikemv
    Participant

    Thanks for sharing your time and experience, Cygnus X. ❗
    Nice post 😉

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