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Taipan Mutant .22 Standard Possible Air Leak

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This topic contains 13 replies, has 6 voices, and was last updated by  svilenp 11 months, 3 weeks ago.

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    I think my Taipan Mutant .22 Standard may have developed a slow leak. I have had it for 2 1/2 years and I still use it regularly for pesting. My question is, do I

    1. Attempt to replace seals myself?
    2. Sell it to someone who is better equipped to replace seals than I am and purchase a new Veteran?
    3. Send it off to someone and have it repaired?

    I’m open to any suggestions. Thanks in advance.



    Kypop, you can fix this, videos are online. 2.5 trouble free years of service is outstanding. The hardest working o-ring on your Mutant is a small one behind the fill port, easy fix. The dirty little secret about PCP’s is “we are on our own”, you can fix this. Give it A GO!!

    LarryW :smilen:



    Yea, The field is pretty wide open for a repair shop, One down in Georgia for crickets and Vulcan’s not sure if he works on Veterans,
    I heard FX will repair any brand, But if they cant fix there own why trust with another brand, I know Earnest works there but he is only one man,
    Anyone know of any good repair shops, Please speak up,



    I try and see if I can fix it myself first …… you can break something that’s already broken ?

    First you need to find where the leak is ….. slow leak is a bitch.

    From that you can tell how difficult the fix will be. The easiest it’s probably the fill valve o-ring like Larry mentioned. To find this leak place the fill probe into the fill port and tape wrapping a condom over the open end and wait to see if it fills. If it leaks from there you can try inserting a bit of silicone grease with a toothpick into the tinny fill port inlet located inside the fill port. A short burst blast fill with the SCUBA to send the lube into and coat the dried out fill valve O-ring to make it reseal, if not you need to replace it.

    The hardest is the Breather hole located just back off the rear frame support. If air leaks from there it could be any one of the four o-rings on/in the regulator that is leaking. To get to the small o-ring located in the regulator is the hardest to change/fix, usually indicated with having poor crony numbers. Because of its deep access and you may need to get a reg tester if you mess up the settings.

    To check for valve leak you do the same by tape wrapping a condom on the barrel end with the breech close to see if it fills.

    I’d start with the easiest first and see ………….

    ~ Greg



    Thanks for all of the responses. I don’t have a lot of confidence in my ability to fix a mutant. I had a Benjamin rifle and pistol that I worked on a little and I had a mishap once that didn’t do any harm other than scare the pants off of me! Now I’m even more gun shy when it comes to working on a 250 bar rifle that I hold right next to my face.

    I think I agree with iride in that a reputable repair shop is needed badly. I would gladly pay a professional to reseal my mutant as long as it was a reasonable fee. At this point, my option #2 above looks promising if one of you guys that knows these guns inside and out want to make an offer.



    Hey KyPop ……… I see.

    Do try the Fill port trick ….. did that to my Matador and it hasn’t leak since !
    Shits, if you were my neighbor here in Hawaii I’d reseal your Mutant for free Sir.

    I’d try and ask Ernest if he can help you even though he is busy he’s a fast worker !

    He is a supper nice guy !!


    If you have your mind set on a Veteran, disregard the above.

    ~ Greg



    Just thought of something, Give Tony of Talon Airguns a call and see if he knows anyone ,
    Next call R&L airguns to check with them, Both are Veteran/Mutant dealers ,
    Good luck, and keep us posted on the outcome ,



    Give me a call…
    Happy to help…



    Thanks so much for all of the kind input. At least now can intelligently formulate a plan. I’ll let you know how things go.



    There you go one post up , Give Tony a call.



    I didn’t have much luck finding or fixing the leak on my own so I decided to contact the guys at R & L Airguns that sold me the Mutant in the first place. After talking with Matt, I decided to send my Mutant back to them for a complete seal replacement. It turns out that I had unknowingly done at least some of the damage myself by using a bore snake to clean the rifle. I must have pulled it through once before removing the brass brushes inside which was a stupid thing to do. Duh. Even after removing the brushes, there were still little shards of brass brush left in the snake and they found their way into the deepest recesses of my rifle.

    Long story short, Matt fixed me up and my gun is on its way home at what I think is a very reasonable price for a complete overhaul. I won’t mention price because the cost for each different rifle and each different circumstance can vary dramatically. By the way, you can get a bore snake called “BoreBlitz the brushless barrel cleaner” that has the correct diameter rubber ball in them instead of a brass brush. I’ve ordered one and I hope it will solve my cleaning problems. Thanks again for all of your suggestions!



    Hey KyPop,

    Thanks for the update !
    If you haven’t try it the Patchworm cleaning system is the best IMHO !


    My tip for field use is to thread a dry cleaning patch followed by a wet/ballistol Plain felt cleaning button.
    With one single pulls through it will wet clean and dry the bore usually does it.
    But if the patch looks very dirty I’d pull through with the same 3 times to achieve a cleaner bore.

    Also don’t use the Super-intensive felt cleaning buttons they’re made with interwoven brass fibers for powder burners ……..

    ~ Greg



    Thanks Greg. I have that patchworm system and it has worked well for me. I just got the BoreBlitz .22 and .25 bore snake in the mail today and I pulled each one of them through a couple of times. They seem to work well but I’ve only tried them dry and it was too dark to go out and shoot afterwards but I don’t expect to have any issues. I did have to saw off the brass weight on the end of the snake since it was too long to go into the barrel from the breech side. They’re really tight so hopefully they’ll drag out any yuck that has gummed up the barrel!



    Hello to the metal brush – no need to prune but with pliers carefully pull it out and that’s it.

    I also bought PatchWorm – this is the best for airguns at least for me.

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