Stealth home build
Here it is in order and without editing 👿 (HOPEFULLY) by owners PLZ HEHE 😀
The LCD was an idea from a russian site and works quite well ,thou i would like to make one with some sound deadning material to see if its any better. 😯
First fitting of the top rail ,bit of a bugger to machine and learnt plenty about how not to do it.
The trigger group fitted , the shear assembly is made from steel to be hardened later with a brass trigger .Still got to fit the pins and test the shear against the hammer when loaded on the spring. 🙄
The mock up of the trigger group with trigger gaurd in place , finaly got the screws to fit this , so should finish soon.
Got a 400cc bottle from a logan s16 , like the fact that its shorter in length
and DIA ,give s me more to play with when it comes to the stock and adjusting its length for comfort. The stock has seven adjusting positions for hieght and will be clamped by 2 screws between the bottle hole and adjusting bar. The first 2 pics are for mock up only.
Reduced the size and made it fit mu shoulder better by rounding it off, bit lighter too. Was going to make it FT style but i would like to go hunting with it ,so when for a more solid style.
This brings us upto date Blodnobs kindly helping with the valve ,so all i need is some time ………damit 🙁
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There will be enough adjustment on the shaft ,its the spring that will have to move forwards as i dont think its being compressed enough. Il just put a 6mm spacer between the spring and valve body for the moment and see how it gose.
Well my mentor in valve construction (Sean) has come to the rescue before my major cock up ! Il have a little rethink about the seat then lol 😀
I tried ptfe once and never again. It machines ace, and cos of its wieght i thaught it’d be quite stable but as i machine a step in the seat around the stem as others take the step out of the stem material when pressure was put on it , it deformed and went tight around the stem and the step i machined in the seat was totally gone.A propper balls up as the valve in question had gone to Canada.I just sent a complete new one with an big big sorry.
I now use nylon 66 natural.Its 13mm od + tolerance wich works out at about 13.2mm and as i sit the seats in a 13mm hole it gives me just enough to play with ( story of my life 🙁 )
If you want any i’ll send you a foot.
Regards, Sean.
well mate your getting there ain,t u .it,s looking realy smart now .c how u said u might need to sort the tophat well why don,t u just make the stem abit longer and that should do it then u can adjust it more up and down 😀
Back in the shed finaly and ive got the valve nearly done 😀 .Im just waiting for some PTFT to arrive so i can finish the valve seat. Valve based on Blodnob design but 10mm longer .The stainless ring you see is going to be heat shrunk into the end of the tube (with abit of glue 😀 )and the top rail bolts to it ,hopefully it will be all locked up tight 😯
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Think there be some adjusting to do as ive only got 3mm of movement of the top hat before it bottoms out.Think i only need 2mm thou ? ,but its abit close
Got more done , but il post pics of valve and trigger group later in the week 😀 just need to tidy up L8r all
very nice mate welldone can,t wait to c what comke,s next lol 😛
Just a small update 😀 .Heres the finished stock (finaly), was always worried that it wouldnt have enough clamping pressure with the M4 counter sunk screws , but thats not a problem it clamps realy solid 😀 . Ive incuded the drawing as you can see ( nearly as good as mcMike s graphics 😀 ) for anybody to copy 😯
Ive got an order to make one for someone ,so the air tank and barrel fund is on the way lol 😀 .Now im of to the shed ,ive got a valve to make 😀 L8r all
Great work, Buba… Dont think you’ll have to worry about anyone editing here. I’ve heard though that if you type in YN’s real name here at Talonairgun, that it will be changed to ‘Pretty Boi’ so be aware of that fact… 😆
Your work is amazing. Really looking forward to continued posts. I love the buttpad you came up with. I’m hoping that someone will start making those for sale for our guns.
Yep: all of these projects to do and still only 24 hours in a day.
On a jolly note though we are all waiting with baited breath. Now, stop reading this and start cranking out chips. 😉
Ive just finished ( as long as i dont crap the slot cutting ) something for Rabbits , so he will show you something differant in a few weeks or more. So havent managed to do anymore to my gun, but il be back on it at the weekend. The foam ive used before and worked well was the stuff you put on bike cross bars to stop you doing damage to yourself . It carves quite well .Il have to make a new LDC core to test out wether theres any differance in sound levels 😯 but il have ago and at the mo i just want to get the valve done and shoot it . On top of that ive got my FT style butt plate to complete 😯 . Blodnod has kindly helped me out with the valve ,and hopefully in another two weeks i should have it finished 😯 . Theres just not enough time……… 🙁
Yeah, the BBS is a tough crowd, that’s for sure.
Buba, YN and myself are both from the UK but now living in the US (not together, you understand :lol:) so we can appreciate both sides of the grass. In your first post you said that you were interested in seeing how dampening material might cut down the noise: did you get around to trying that out yet? If not, the foam used in custom PC cases is meant to be very effective as it cuts down on the vibrations as well as the noise.
Yeh i have to agree NY ,but then i dont realy like the BBS forum , full of the idiots that you tend to meet at airgun clubs 🙁 ,”ive got this” ,”i can do that” ” im this good ” all you hear said and nothing positive , cant be arsed 🙄
u could be right yellow i flutter abit on the bb,s and got alot off shit my first vist for nowt but i know a few guys on there who have been there from the start so it was quickly stopped 😀
I dont think your gun would be taken as the excellent example of someones ability on the BBS, they would see it as a “tool the anti’s can use”….
I asked a simple questions about my BSA Mk III FAC .22 on the BBS and got heckled……
“We dont talk about FAC here”…. mmmmkay…. I only asked if anyone had any idea’s why my gun was shooting at 24fpe when it should be at 30 fpe…. its already WAY above FAC. Silly me for thinking they country that makes them would have some information.
Then I got some snide remarks in PM about the fact I had an 86fpe .25 Condor (which was mentioned in my signature line)….. some “typical american” comments… had to tell a few people in PM about how I was English and grew up with 12 fpe BSA springers and their comments werent helping anyone and whose stupid, me or the the guy’s who darent even talk about what they do because they are scared feckless of a sensationalist media engine that gets the sheeple over there to follow an editors uneducated opinion based on a single headline and some scaremongering…..
They seem a little shell shocked and down trodden over there, a lot more than I remember growing up….. The recent BS regarding Yarrah on the Yellow just makes it even harder for me to say anything in support of them.
mate i,ll shoot a few pellets and rimmi bullets for u lol (sorry had to say it ) 😆
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As i thought ,i had to make a new hammer shear 😡 ,the shear engaged and locked but only needed to be breathed on ,to let the hammer go! So i made a new one with the hole drilled in the right place and it works fine . Nice and crisp ! …….well i say fine 😕
Not having a stealth to look at is a major pain, the problem ive got is that when the trigger is pulled and the hammer moves forward , the middle shear rubs against the hammer shear ,stopping the hammer shear from being sprung back to its start position (ie below the mid shear to be locked by the hammer once cocked again).
First pic shows the shear engaged
2nd pic shows arfter the trigger is pulled and the mid shear stuck on the hammer shear
Now theres a simple answer to this and that is , do i need the elongated hole in the hammer shear? is that why is like it is , (i thought it was for the safety catch) because i thought i d be clever and just drill a staight hole 😀