SO I CAN’T ZERO MY SCOPE…….. DAMN!
Today I finally got to shoot my brand new Talon SS. First I took it out the box swabbed the barrel and mounted the scope (CenterPoint Adventure Class 3-9 x 50) I take my first shot at 10 feet just to get on paper, my shot is pretty much 3 1/4in lower than my point of aim but that is exactly the distance between the center of scope to the center of the barrel so I take another shot just for judgment and it appeared that I missed the whole target but when I checked my trap there was 2 pellets in there so it blew my mind that the pellet went threw the same whole. I turn my elevation knob and shoot when I go to turn the knob again it is at its end, I can’t turn it anymore and I only got a 1 1/2in elevation out of the pellet. PLEASE tell me what I am doing wrong. 😥
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i would suggest you shim your scope with strips from a soda can, some plastics absorb water and expand which can throw your zero a bit(so so i’ve heard…i have used plastic on some guns as well)
next you SS is probably shooting about 26 fpe, which means you should zero at approximatly 14 or 37 yards….you might wonder why…well you see the scope looks in a straight line, and that line starts about 3″ over the barrel….the pellet moves in arch(like a rainbow) so it starts out low…then moves to a max and then drops down again.
on its way up it moves through the scope straight line of sight…then for a while is above that line, and then it crosses it on its way down again. that is why i gave you 14 and 37 yards as this is where the pellet is going to cross the line of sight
why 14 and 37 yards….well if you zero at this distance, you get whats called optimum zero…this is where the pellet is flying as close to the line of the scope, for the longest distance
still if you shoot at a close target at 10 yards you wil have to aim high, and if your shooting at target say 60 yards you will also have to hold over a bit
once your scope is zeroed at 14 or 37 yards (i recommend 37 yards as it will show errors better than 14 yards) i then suggest you place targets at various distances….and shoot then and learn how much you have to hold over or under. do not adjust the scope, most cheap scopes do not return to zero….so if you dial it up 20 clicks…and down 20 clicks it probably not going to hit zero but rather be missing a few more or less clicks….instead use the milldots as references.
paralax is just to minimize error induced from optics set at a certain distance, it does not adjust for bulletdrop
try download chairun and play around with it a bit….
Mike; Remember you still have to account for the effects of gravity. Your scope will only adjust to a straight line through the scope. If your target moves out or in from you, you’ll have to adjust for the point of impact through practice and skill.
That’s the art in this business. Set your scope, practice with different distances and various elevations from your position and you’ll find that parallax is a nice tool but nothing replaces an understanding of your scope’s limitations and the properties of your rifle. AKULA
Mike,
With parallax adjustment, you still have to adjust for elevation. Here is some info to read up on.
quick question guys this is the scope I have now
http://www.airgundepot.com/centerpoint-scope-cp395aorg.html
Adventure Class scopes come standard with adjustable objectives, delivering a parallax-free image, without moving the point of impact. This means if your target moves, your scope can adjust quickly and accurately at any distance. And the dual illuminated reticles offer a bright, sharp image for those fast-moving, close-in shots. Whether you’re shooting at dusk or at dawn, in heavy brush or open field, the Adventure Class will deliver a quick, bright image.
“delivering a parallax-free image, without moving the point of impact.”
What does that actually mean? reason I’m asking is because today I took my TSS out and sited the scope for 20yds and I turned the front lens from 10yds 
to the 20yd mark
but I had to mess with the elevation knob to get her perfect…… cool but if I have to do that what is the whole thing with switching the marks on the front of the scope. Forgive me I am still learning this stuff. What I thought it meant was site the gun in at say 20yds and then all I would have to do was adjust the dial on the front lens and she would be zeroed at that distance without messing with elevation and all and also the windage and elevation knobs lock so if I was in the field I would have to have a allen wrench with me.
THANKS IN ADVANCE
😀
Alright! Go get em
😀 So I had time today to remount the scope with a shim. I did it just the way it had been explained to me in the forums , I go in the back and set up my target and start sending Crosman Premiers at it to site the scope in, first let me tell you this gun shoots like a well put together piece of machinery second I made my adjustments and the shim worked great 10min later I’m zeroed at 10yards and I send 7 CP”S threw one whole now you have to understand I hear people make this claim all the time and I always assume its not going to happen with me behind the trigger but Damn I did it and its all because of the overwhelming help that I got from you guys. I’m Fin Ta Kick Some Rat Ass! 😀
THANKS!
This is why some of use use a laser…not so that we can look cool doing hip shots, but for the close in shots like you mentioned. I have my laser sighted in for short range …under 15 yards… on my Talon and Condor and have the scopes set further out…
35 yards first intersection on the Talon and 50 yards on the Condor.
You are definitely not the first to have this problem.
Rusty
ive had the same problem. dont feel so bad now. move your target back . makes a big differance kingpin
At 10′ you should be hitting about 3″ low.
Move your target back to 18-20 yards.
Most scopes don’t have enough elevation range to zero at 10′, especially with a 3.5″ scope hight.
I didnt even think of it that way……. I’m still getting gun and scope combo figured out
Nothing wrong, you don’t need shims.
At 10′ you should be hitting about 3″ low.
Move your target back to 18-20 yards.
Most scopes don’t have enough elevation range to zero at 10′, especially with a 3.5″ scope hight.
A lot of times, these guns require a shim placed underneath the scope and back scope ring. Cut you a piece of that clear plastic that items come packed in blister packs and try that, I bet it allows you to get back on track with your elevation. Once that is done, if you can gain anymore distance than 10 feet, say 20 yds or so, it will help in getting it dialed in to see what pellets give you the best groups.
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Thank guys I was up reading your post and links last night and I am mor informed now on the scope, I will take my TSS out today and learn my mil dot so that I am good.
Thanks Again. 😀