Quieting your Talon SS – Examples
One of the first things people usually discover about their Talon SS is that it isnt quite as quiet as you’d hope…. But its easy to make it real quiet with simple off the shelf stuff you can pick up at any hardware store.
There are several different methods of baffling the frame so I figured I’d make a thread for people to show how they have done it.
Here’s mine
1″ Diameter washers with a 1/4″ hole, Fat 1″ diameter O-Rings and 1″ Diameter relativly thick wire springs.
I cut the spring I bought into two peices with a regular hacksaw and squared off the ends by holding the end flat with pliers and then applying heat from a blow torch followed by grinding. its important to square off the ends so that the washers are held perpendicular to the barrel so they dont mess with the pellets causing poor accuracy or worse, clipping.
I put the longer of the two springs in first followed by a washer, the second spring and that gives me my two big air chambers to take the initial blast, then I just alternate spring and rubber o-ring until I get to the end of the frame and inserting the end cap compresses the entire thing keeping it still.
This is how it is all inside the frame
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I know this is a ridiculously old thread, however, I had to sell all of my AF rifles a couple of years ago and have, over the last few months, been able to reaquire a few. One of the is a TSS in 22. Shot it yesterday and it’s so loud with 18.1’s that my 6 year old wanted to go back to the house. It surprised him after I told him that it was quiet. Anyway, wouldn’t the copper piping defeat the purpose of “porting” or re-routing the air? The whole set up is solid….or did you drill holes in the pipes?
I tried hair curlers wrapped with scotchbrite. Within 3 shots, the dern thing sucked various parts in. Shot 3 annihilated everything even leaving the muzzle crown packed with lead and other garbage. No damage to frame; cleaned the barrel saying a prayer.
Found some pics in a UK forum by a user called “bodhisdad” where he rolled up hardware cloth (aka, coarse screen) as the absorbers and said they wouldn’t get sucked into the flight path.
Tried that today and it works for me. Barrel still groups; shot one group of 5 shots 3/8″ CTC at 35 yards so I think it is ok.
Possible limitations: I used a TT modded Talon tank today. I also have a TT modded high flow tank and have not tried that yet. So I don’t know if this baffle stuffin’ will self destruct with the high flow tank or not.
Front bushing and frame are vented. I think it is pretty quiet; it got rid of the lower frequency “boom” of the washers and springs alone. Is higher pitched now.
The rabbits think it is quiet… that is, after a full afternoon and evening of shooting, I found a rabbit sitting 25 feet from the other side of the house like nothing was going on. The furball actually looked quite relaxed… until I shot its furry ass.
I don’t have any pics of the latest baffle. If I stumble over bodhisdad’s post again, I’ll pop a link in over here.
Quiet shootin’,
Micke
I have a stock talon ss in .25 caliber and I am using the pex crimp connectors with larger hole washers ( because of .25 caliber ) and the o-rings. I have tried several different combinations and the gun is still way too loud. I will try to vent my frame and the 1st barrel bushing soon and see if that helps any. If this doesn’t work I guess I will try the hair curler method.
For any that are doing the copper fitting and washer mod I found something better. Originally I cut the unions in half to double the chambers. But today while at ace hardware I found a bag of copper crimp rings the fit the frame better than the straight copper and are an 1/8 inch in length. Which allows for alot of chambers…
My gun was pretty quiet before and is quieter yet after throwing these in, take it for what it’s worth.
Tag
Bumped for the new guys
A couple of simple tips that may help those making shrouds from the copper pipe couplings and washers: Use un-stretched black electrical tape to increase the outer diameter of the spacers and if you can, cut the couplings in half so you can add twice as many washers. Then if you use a small and large ball-peen hammer and something to support the washers, you can deform them into a slight cone shape vs flat surface. Just a few observations from what I saw in the pics above. 🙄
Have you tried it with a washer between those two? I assume you did and found its better without?
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I tried that but the radius caused bunching. Maybe I could have wrapped it a different way. I’ll update my post with a suggestion for alternatives.
Take a pair of scissors and cut small, short “V”s in the tape on both sides before you use it.
I tried that but the radius caused bunching. Maybe I could have wrapped it a different way. I’ll update my post with a suggestion for alternatives.
Wouldn’t some black electrical tape wrapped around the outside of the washer work too?
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As i understand it the copper is a “space” for the air to expand/decrease pressure.
Not sure if your talking about frame porting where you would defiantly need a path/hole for the air to reach the frame. This could be done if the front barrel bushing was ported (holes drilled from muzzle to breach) and the frame porting was between the first and second barrel bushing.
Drilling the pipes would not help cause the frame/shroud would block the other sides of the holes, preventing the air from escaping.
Hope this helps
Cally