Q:

Question about my shroud baffle prototype

Started working on a one piece internal baffle this afternoon. Used a piece of 1/2″ CPVC pipe, perforated holes throughout the length of the pipe, then drilled out the centers of 4 – 1″ nylon washers to where the CPVC pipe fits through snug to hold the pipe inline with the barrel. Finished by wrapping scotch-brite pad arouind the CPVC pipe. Don’t know how it’s going to work yet, waiting on the epoxy to set up holding the washers to the tube.

Now a question:

The CPVC pipe fits exactly perfect and snug over the end of the barrel inside the shroud. Will this cause any kind of unforeseen problem with accuracy or anything since it is attached over the end of the barrel?

Thanks,

Talon/Talon SS

All Replies

Viewing 8 replies - 1 through 8 (of 8 total)

if you add the felt washers on both sides of the fender washers,im assuming the felt is sticky backed,take a lighter and burn the center of the washer where the pellet travels through,so you get rid of the fur of felt that will block the pellets travel.just burn it black and it should work great did this mod years ago and still works great!

No anything against the barrel muzzle. Spring or tubing, haircurler slid over it/ along side it, 3″ long or so. Then a washer and your various spacers/baffles sized differently to break up the harmonics. If you clip that washer on the end of the barrel kiss your crown goodbye.

I got excelent results when I added some of the heavy self stick felt floor protectors that are meant for chair legs. I used a hole punch to clear the pellet path then stuck em to the wasers between the spacers. Got rid of some ping when they were cut a little bigger than th ewashers as well.

VERY EFFECTIVE vs the plain washers on my rig.

You didn’t show the through view, but the outside is perfect. You got the platform, minor changes may be needed after experimentation.

Well OK kids, don’t try the above one at home. Looks freaking cool but don’t work worth a crap.

Just finished a second one (sorry no pics), cutting the CPVC into 1-1/2″ lengths, perforating each section with holes like before and wrapped in the scotch-brite pad. In an empty shroud, I dropped a 1′ fender washer with 1/4″ hole down the tube where it rested on the end of the barrel. Pushed the first baffle down till snug, inserted another washer, then anothr baffle, then washer until I had 4 washers and 3 baffle tubes inside.

There was just a tad bit of void space at the end of the shroud where the endcap would not make contact with the baffling, so I used a rubber garden hose washer which was just a fit and the end cap pushed into this made it a solid fit.

Just test fired it and YEAH BUDDY !!!!, much, much better. This Talon is still sick, so not going to worry about shooting it whole bunch more, but when I order the new one next week, I know what baffling I am going to use now.

Well, thats what I am looking for is different thoughts. I wandered about the straight effect of the pipe too, but I’ve got lots of pipe, washers and all weekend to work out what works best. I’ll post what this one does when I get it installed.

Not trying to be a smart ass but something dun look right here. That PVC pipe is basically straight through rather than having baffles with small openings that allow the pellet to form a “seal” with the baffles to impede the air blast. Those scotch pad will have some sound attenuation effect but the ID of that PVC pipe seems big enough to allow a lot of blow-by. Just my 2 cents.

When doing any type of shroud/baffle setup always remove your tank and visually inspect the bore.

There should be no obstructions or shadowing.

TM, that looks good. I think you are going to be happy with the results.

Viewing 8 replies - 1 through 8 (of 8 total)

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