Purchased older used Condor, issues

Home Forums AirForce Condor/Condor SS Purchased older used Condor, issues

Viewing 6 posts - 1 through 6 (of 6 total)
  • Author
  • #536089

    Hello everyone,

    I recently purchased an older model condor with the older safety(which looks completely removed by the previous owner).

    There are a couple issues that I noticed right away, I took apart the trigger assembly and noticed only 3 springs(shouldn’t it be 4?), looks like he completely removed the safety hardware by drifting out the pins in the frame and replacing them.

    Now the gun does shoot but it feels hard to cock the breech forward and this is where I noticed the oem hammer looks like it has been getting shaved down by the breech block groove. I can make it smooth to operate but I have to place some pressure on the hammer from above so it doesn’t catch and continue to damage the hammer.

    I was thinking of replacing the hammer with a talon tunes one as well as a new breech block and nob. Also grab a trigger spring?

    He put a talon tunes moderator on it so at least thats a positive. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.



    Some of the old Condor safeties were dangerous, including the one I had which would fire when the safety was moved to the fire position.

    he real problem with the trigger group is the trigger bar itself. The bar does not have enough purchase for the sear to grab onto.

    Here’s part from an old Talonairgun thread on the topic. Images follow:

    “Somewhere on this forum (I couldnt find it with a quick search) is a picture showing a mod that CygnusX (I think) did to his trigger bar. It was necessary for using very heavy hammer springs, otherwise the sear would release before you pulled the trigger.

    Anyway, there is a small area of metal to remove just a few thousandths will do, and the sear will stay engaged with the trigger bar when you release the safety (if you decided to keep it).

    Either way, its a much safer trigger system with this small mod and trigger pull and feel is unchanged. Tens of thousands of shots with this system, and I have yet to have the rifle discharge before I pull the trigger.

    Cannot find the original post. Here are thread with trigger part pictures.


    This one the mod is done on part #8. The interface between #5 and #8 is made slightly deeper by filing on #8.

    Here http://www.talonairgun.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=154

    Marcs custom parts have this modification in mind. You can see how the interface between the parts is deeper and much safer, particularly in the last pic in that thread.

    Just do not grind on the polished part of this interface. You only need to make the little ledge bigger. I hope this is understood.Here’s what you want


    Works like a charm!!!!

    I’ve had mine out for a couple of years now. If you do pull it, pull all of it, incliding the linkage piece. Which will slide around and lock up if you don’t. Only possibilty of problems is the sear not locking which can be fixed one of two ways. 1. pull the sear spring and strech it just a fraction to increase the compressive strength. 2. Move the spring forward till its just over the edge of the sears blade, this increases the fulcrom point. This i believe only needs to be done with a heavier hammer, like 70g and up. Other wise step 1. should work fine.

    dont put extra strong springs under the hammer sear and such theres no need…what keeps the rifle from firing is actually the “middle” sear….this has a tendency to round the edges, and on some rifles even dailing preload to max will no longer hold the hammer back….

    if you file where the pink line is…just a little to create a little deeper notch…the hammer sear will no be able to break loose and fire…the oval hole in the hammer sear is made to take up any slack…when the hammer pushes on it it gets pushed back into the middle sear…and it will now hold much better, and the trigger will not change much, i couldnt feel any change at all…except no more missfires.

    The safety is junk in alot of rigs, in my case it would misfire when i pressed the safety forward. Now i just move the brech forward, depress the trigger releasing the sear and control the hammer/brech assembly to a resting state again. Safest safety for these rigs, the factory safety in my rig was a false sense of security. Was just a matter of time before someone or something got the business end of my rig unintentionally.”


    Trigger schematic:



    Hard to say what’s going on with the hammer/breech block; hopefully, nothing is bent or pushing the hammer to one side.


    Hi Rob,

    Thanks for the reply. Yeah the whole safety bar including the 2 safety springs and the piece were removed. Looks like he drifted the pins out and removed it entirely.

    Anyways, I ordered a new hammer from Tony, not sure when it will ship though. I like the rifle so far, just has a few quirks. Looking at a new scope also like a Hawke or something in that range.

    Gun has the old spin on tank, not the new spin-loc variant. But whatever, something else to address later on.

    Well, thanks for pics and explanation. I will post more when I get the new hammer.

    Aircon -Ryno


    Which spring is the spring that you replace that’s the trigger spring if I order a trigger spring from Talon tunes and I wanted to replace it with your Springs the one I replace


    Hello David,

    I am going to assume you would replace the spring on the trigger piece. The closest one to the trigger. Do not touch the one under the striker release or you may get misfires.

    If there is any others out there that would comment if I am wrong, it would be appreciated.



    So I have figured out the issue with the hammer binding up. After completely disassembling the whole action, I felt inside the rifle where the the hammer and cocking bolt are. I determined there was a small burr of aluminum from the frame that was tilting downward into the rifle. I am going to assume because of hard use and slamming the cocking breech forward many times. It shaved tiny pieces off the delrin on the oem hammer. I used some fine metal files to shave it back so the frame is smooth.

    I put it all back together and it functions smoothly now. I then took it back apart and replaced the oem hammer and extra weight with Tony’s condor hammer with slap mod. It now cycles perfectly, trigger is crisp and smooth.

    Still needs a new scope and a regulated tank. Anyone have good experience with the altaros regulator on Tony’s site?


    • This reply was modified 1 year, 11 months ago by Ryno.
Viewing 6 posts - 1 through 6 (of 6 total)
  • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.