Q:

polishing the inside of the frame

i remember reading somewhere, that polishing the inside of the frame (not just the barrel) on the area where the hammer/spring slides, greatly improves consistency on these guns.
Has anyone done this? did you get any improvements? and, how did you do it, what tools did you use, etc.?

Airforce Rifles/Pistols

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Thanks for all your input guys.
You know, i just remembered… the very first time i took out the barrel, spring, hammer, etc on my condor (cause the POS dint work well BTW), a little piece of white paper tape came out, it had obviously been “wrapped” arround something on the inside, but came off, and was just cluddering the inside of the frame. I never did know where that tape came from.
Has anyone else discovered tape inside your frames? It was “standard” white (kinda yellowish actually) paper tape.

Leave that aluminum frame alone! You can , Glue,Screw,Tape and Grind any exterior part of the frame, don’t touch the inside! Unless, you like replacing hardware. The parts are made to function in that environment, look elsewhere for things to tinker with,and don’t assume so-called experts posting understand “all” they profess to “know”

Benzin, I just did this along with mike’s info. I used a jewlers polishing paste wax “Maas”. As Mike said all internals out, just the frame secured in a vice with wood jaws. You can figure your own way of secureing the frame. I used a long drill bit 18″ wrapped it with a 6″ wide strip of old t-shirt till i had a good thickness applied the polish and inserted the bit and started to spin the bit. A variable speed drill would be best. Once i had the swab in i upped the rpms but not full speed just a good spin pullling it in and out. Alot of black came out and my swab shrunk so i had to add another thickness and some more paste/wax and repeated. I believe it helped with the hammer gilde which was the area of concern for me. I did the whole interior but mostly where the hammer would glide. I note i keep my screws in but didn’t let them enter the interior of the frame, more of a way to plug as many holes as possible, worked good. Worth the effort. I gained 20 fps I spoke with Mike about this before doing it as i was going to use a sanding drum and micro sandpaper, i now think its best to leave the anodized surface and just polish and wax.

Benzin,
Can’t hurt re polishing the ID. One wants all that stuff to work smoothly. You want to take the internals out and check to see if your trigger guard screw sticks up into the ID as well. That can be an issue.
There are several ways to polish the ID. First check around for any little burrs sharp spots etc. Then get a rod with a polishing bob about the size of the ID and some polishing compound. You could use bore paste if you have it or compounding material. Then follow that with a finer compound or if you don’t have it try a light to medium cleaner wax. That’s probably good enough. I leave the anodize,, in other words don’t buff through it just smooth it a bit.

There are other approaches but if you keep an eye on things that’s usually enough.
Hope that helps
m

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