New project a .457 The Heat is on Voltar & CygnusX

god here we go .i,m looking forward to seeing this one finnished 😛


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Viewing 15 replies - 1 through 15 (of 15 total)

WOW Great gun… makes my .22 condor look like a daisy red ryder… LOL… not to put down the red ryder… it is a great gun.. just a little under power thats all… but keep up the good work…

Any accuracy testing gun done? Let us know when you plan on selling samples of your creation… looks like a really fun gun to shoot

Marc, looks grand!!!!!!! 🙂

Would like more details on your valve please?
I setup my press to handle a .457″ swage die. Works a treat for upsetting and sizing 240 grain pistol bullets. Going to play around with some other bullets and possible make up a die set for dual diameter stuff.
Got that going on for my .25 so be a piece of cake to do others 🙂
Hope to hear of more progress as you can !!

i think my valve ID is .25, and the seat is about .308

heres a video of it

also you might wanna look out that you dont get a bouncy valve like this

and finally heres a bloodnop valve

and this was back when it was not making that much power

at 500+ fpe a 405 grain has the power to topple over that pc case that i shoot at hehehe

9mm should do it . i have a .475 which has a 3/8′(‘minus a 5/32” pin) opening and redices to 5/16 at the barrel . it only runs on 2000psi , but gets good speed with 300gr slug. 9mm inline . should be way way better. and better again on 3000psi+ .

looking good , i make alot of big bore ag’s , just wondering what size port you are going with in the valve, most of my guns are not with in line valves .and none with inline big bore …. so i im curios as to what inline valve size youd go with for the .45 , takes alot of stuff to move a 200-300gr slug .

hi marc, made any prgress with yur new toy 🙂

hello fellow airgunner! 8) man, you’re doing an awesome job there mate! keep up the good work. cheers, vincent

Looking good Marc.

Question, what material did you use for the valve body and breech slide?

Roy S.

Hey Walter,

Good to hear from you again!!

Na haven’t experienced a point to that feature. As hunting isn’t allowed here? What’s yours doing at the moment?

And since we are at it. might be a nice moment to post some pics of your work here walter? With the TOG on a low profile at the moment?

I would love to get a gettogether with all of you guys here on TAG/TOG. Like a fun shoot! But haven’t got the momey so that would never work 😥

Regards and take care,


Looking real fine.
Will you have a seperate breech lock? to prevent the breech slide popping forward?
I oughta get to work :):):):)

Take care

ohhh yeah you got bit by a mad machinist/talon bug….

my absolute max was with purelead 500grain and it hit 604 FPE, roundballs can reach 1100 fps…which is prolly the more useable of the two since 1000-1100 fps, is really flat, and on most game will prolly be just as lethal

word of advise…clean all lube off the ammo…it will faul the barrel and not do any good anyways

There look like quite a few home builds starting at one time 😀 . Looks like an intresting new year ! .Im waiting for the new year (mainly because i havent finished the drawings still 🙁 ) . Looks a solid build Marc so what are you going to do differant on this one . What trigger group are you going to do ! Chance to change that crap shear engagement ? . 😀 THE THING OF NIGHTMARES!………….HEHE

Bar in a lathe, I’ve heard called line boring. We use a piece of hardened drill rod as a tool, just grind a flat (for set screw, holds tool in place) on the side and put a fine thread set screw in behind for adjustment.

If you use a follower rest, you’ll get a very steady cut.

Just for the record, I just made a layout and using 1.25″ dia. square end end mill with the head set at 45 degs. it misses a true radius by .012″, but if I lean the head over to 30 degs from horizontal it comes out .001″ off.

I would have never tried thinking without checking it would have been farther out than that.

Just shows you what I know. 🙂

I plan to bolt and bond the upper and lower rails to the frame tube.

I’ll use AEROPOXY STRUCTURAL ADHESIVE-ES6209, probably no need for the bolts, but why not. 🙂

Thank you very much for the info.

Are the people on this forum great or what?????

Roy S.

quote Marc:

It’s not a complete matching radius. It’s made using a 25mm endmill at an angle It’s actually an elips. But I’ve calculated it to be withing 5/100 of a mm accurate. I’ve made a matching radius befor however using a boring bar in the lathe. You make one yourself from a steel rod that you can support between centers. Put a single cutter in the middle and lock it with a setscrew. Than mount your workpiece on the crossslide. Then use your feed for machining. Works like a charm two but is more cumbersome for me as I can use the big mill at work.



Nice going Marc.

A question, on the top and bottom rails.

Did you machine a full radius on the mating surfaces and or do something else?

If full radius, how did you accomplish that?


Roy S.

LOL Ya that’s what my girlfriend said to 8)



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