New member with a question…

Hi all,

A while ago I got a 10×18 hobby lathe and am now confident enough with my skills to tackle my first scratch build. After seeing pic’s of Buba b’s stealth build I had to give it a go. I have never seen an AF gun in person so I’m relying on images and info I glean off the net.

My plan is for a CO2 powered version and I’m trying to build a new valve for a 9oz bottle that will interface the same way as a standard AF tank. Hopefully if I get my measurements right I will later be able to go to PCP by changing to an AF tank/valve and messing with new hammer/spring settings.

I have the thread size cut that interfaces with the body of the gun but I don’t know the length it should be to match an AF tank.

I’ve done a fair bit of searching and the only reference I could find was off MM123522’s drawings. I’m not sure if 0.665 is a standard size or custom? I need to know this so I can size my body bushing to work with an AF tank.

Here is where I’m at:

Any help is appreciated as I’m somewhat stalled untill I know how far to cut back the valve and how long to make the bushing.


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Sounds great let me know if you need anything and PS good luck with the little one.


Hope your headach passes quick. My 16 month old woke up at 5am screaming his head off, we never really got back to sleep once he calmed down so I feel your pain but probably only 10% of what you went through 😆

I’m going to be in touch with a few of the local Condor owners in due time to see if I can try one of there tanks in my frame and see it I did good 😀

I have a small update that I’ll post in the mods section here and on the CAF.


Glad you got the info MB had the kids Christmas Party for work today 1000 people many under 4 feet and screaming and running around. The wife and I have wicked headaches!!! 😕

Keep us posted and those tanks seem a good price. Contact Voltar1 on the CAF or TOG as he may have some parts for you or at very least some info and he is in Alberta, Cadeau and Sirjeigo both live not to far from you maybe take a look at their Condors for ideas.


…Oh, I forgot to ask if anyone knows about the WEVO tanks. I noticed that they sell just the tank for a reasonable price ($36-46USD). I figured If I want to go PCP down the line one of these tanks, I make my own valve and I’m good to go for a much better price than an AF tank (~$180USD).


A forum search for “wevo” came up empty… Anyone ever done it or thought about it? Perhaps the neck of the tank is too tight to be useful? Do AF tanks have burst disks built in? would that have to be incorporated in the valve design to keep it safe?


Terrific. Thanks!

I’m happy for any info you might have Buba b, I’ll PM you my E-mail addy.

Sorry if I seemed impatient for the info Randyhub (I PM’ed him on another forum for the info), I had a feeling you were busy and I was hung up on the measurement and didn’t want to make a bad cut after a full day’s work on the valve body. Don’t pull your tank apart for me, I have the info I need now (for the moment) 😀

So If I have this straight the Body bushing need to be 0.75″ deep so that when the tank is fully screwed in the inside shoulder of the bushing and the face of the tank are flush. This leaves the tophat/stem protruding past the bushing? My CO2 valve is not going to be very efficient as the tank side is smaller OD than an AF tank. I have to work in the burst disk so all of my valve will have to be forward of the wide section where the shoulders are. this is going to mean very limited valve volume and poor flow. I’m thinking of building my own reservoir with a more conventional valve and the burs disk located at the rear end (If I can get the gun all together at all).

As I have never seen one in person I’m slightly unsure about the bolt handle operation. I understand the bolt transfers the energy of the hammer back to the tophat as it is driven backwards. When you close the bolt and rotate it to “lock” it is the spacing of the handle to body critical? Since the bolt travels backwards during the firing stroke there is not really a need to have a precise shoulder to keep the bolt rearward prior to firing is there? The tophat is adjustable fore and aft so the shoulder would have to move to keep things locked snugly right? So I’m inferring that there is some play when locked and the gap isn’t really critical? As long as the barrel, bolt and tophat seals age good it all holds its self closed through the cycle?

Cool thanks guys! I’ll try and do a .bmp /MSpaint “diagram” of my trigger group plan and see if you all think it might work.


P.S. Sweet build Buba b 😀

Great info Buba…

Thank You

Hi MiltonBradly
Nice to see someone else giving it a go , keep the pics coming . Below is the info i got from some other dead forum , cant remember who did it , but it seams spot on . I havent got a Stealth either so i had to do it blind like you. Got a drawing of the main body that someone put on the Yellow forum if it helps , but its in PDF and i dont know how to post it 😕 …..damit . Email it too you if you want .Lots of info here to help you ,if you cant find it,…. ask !. Oh and good luck with the trigger shears ……..hehe.

the part that goes into the rifle frame is .875″-14 tpi(imperial measure), the bottle thread is 18mm-1.5, the inside thread of the valve is ½”-13 tpi

the inside thread is cut in two steps, one from one side and one from the other…..so you cant do a screw that goes all the way through

body lenght is 2.075″

part that screws into the bottle is .9″, of that .3 is shoulder, shoulder has 2 parts one is OD .7 and one is OD .635, both parts are .150 long

part that screw into frame is .750″ long with 2 spots without thread closest to the tophat is .2 Long …closest to bottle .168 long

the wide part of valve is OD .44

the brass sleeve is at the widest OD .615 going to OD .506 going to ½”-13 thread it is .670″ long

spring retainer is .900 long and has ½”-13tpi

Hi MB I will try my best today as well I just had kids stuff to do all weekend getting ready early for Christmas. But if anyone else has a valve already apart it would help asI need time to remove mine from the tank.


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