Need a little help
has anyone got any suggestions on how to remove a seriously stuck valve……. HELPPPPPP I gotta get that damn condor valve in before LLama see’s the new names I posted for him…..LOL
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Viewing 6 replies - 1 through 6 (of 6 total)
Rhoder,
Never thought of using that. I am paranoid of slipping with a wrench and hitting the top hat or something. The little piece of pipe I use covers the the top hat and protects it.
I wonder if that wrench could be used on that valve?… And yep it is for the mill 😀
WoK,
Don’t they make tools for removing the collars on these bottles? You have one of what I’m talking about hanging on your wall, but I think it’s for your milling machine. I’m not sure what they’re called, nor where to find them, but I know I’ve seen smaller and larger ones somewhere…
Jim
Yea that sonic crack is loud enough to make my dog piss on the floor.
I was doing some tophat work a few weeks ago, pulled my rubber shim out and fired a shot in my porch… bad idea. My ears rang for 20 minutes and my dog had an accident. Chrony showed 1075 fps for that shot. Soon as I get under 1050 its nice and quiet again, toy-gun quiet at 975. Weird stuff.
I wrapped a sliced piece of 1″ copper pipe around the valve with some rosin on it…Main problem was the Damn tank kept turning in the vice….So I pulled out the drill and remounted my barrel vise.. made a block with 2 1/2″ hole in it and sliced it in 2 pieces…Clamped the living hell out of the thing and finally got it to break loose with a 20″ pipe wrench called” ole faithful”….Funny thing is I have removed barrels from WWII mauser’s and have’nt have to tighten up on them that hard…You can bet your sweet ass it is’nt that tight now…..Had to try it on the talon .22 first,,,,never knew that a 14.3 grain cp could be so loud when it breaks the speed of sound…..put it in the .25 and shot it thru the chrony with kodiaks and 900 fps first shot…..looks like i’ll’ be doing some playing tomorrow afternoon….Oh yeh it’s nice and quite in the 25 too….might have time for some pics….
This is how I do it
I got a piece of metal tube or you can use a coupler of some kind. It must fit around the valve body. I then mark were the hole in the valve body is. I remove the tube and drill and tap it for a bolt. I slip it over the valve again and insert the bolt in the hole througth the tube and into the valve hole. I then take a large MONKEY WRENCH…the old school one like a plumber. I wrap a magazine around the tank and put the tank into my vise all the way to the bottom and close the jaws onto the magazine.
I take the monkey wrench an put it on the the tube and wrench the valve off. You have such great leverage it will come off no problem. And not a mark on the valve.
The tube I use is an old airsource tank cut to about 2.5″ long and opened up the inside a bit to fit over the tank.
With this set up I can remove even the most stubborn valves
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On the newer style tanks you can remove the tophat and brass insert before taking the tank apart….A wrench similar to the one you have would work….It need a little more crescent shape…Of course the older valves don’t have the hole in the side…So I think I’ll keep my piece of copper and wood blocks……By the wya I checked the chrony numbers on my 22 talon w/ the condor valve 1180 fps on JSB’s ….. and 920 on the 25 talon…..I can deal with that..Now it’s time for Piggy huntin….