My baffles

Home Forums General Shrouds and Moderators My baffles

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 27 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • #1150
    triggerman
    Participant

    Here are my baffles I have made for both SS’s. Many trials and errors have found these to be the best so far in noise reduction, all while working on a budget too. Lowes has all the parts and I spent under 10 bucks to do both guns.

    The first image is kind of an exploded view of what all is incorporated in the way I built them. I found that odd sized chambers and the 1″ fender washers with 1/4″ center holes perform best in stripping the air as well as the odd sized chambers breaking up the harmonics.

    Hope this is easy enough to understand if you should want to try doing your own, if not let me know and I will try and answer questions about all the wrong things I did prior to this set.

    The first piece to install is the 3/4″ PVC pipe cut to 3/4″ in length. This is wrapped in a single layer of scotchbrite pad and fits tight inside the shroud. Snug it down against the front barrel bushing with the barrel free floating inside the PVC. The first steel fender washer dropped into the shroud will come to rest against the end of the PVC leaving a 1/4″ gap between the crown of the barrel and the first washer. Whether your bushing is drilled or not, this does not restrict air flow through the bushing.

    Stack the remaining pieces of 1/4″ PVC pipe perforated with holes and double wrapped very tightly with scotchbrite pad, with each seperated by rubber washers sandwiching one steel fender washer with 1/4″ center holes. As you go, just make sure everything is centered to the path of the pellet coming through the barrel.

    The final piece may have to be trimmed a few times to get the end cap to fit snuggly. I used a couple of rubber washers at the very top so that some force was necessary to push the endcap on in order to secure all baffles in the shroud.

    I was amazed at the reduction in report these made after trying several different configurations of materials. I am thinking the PVC walls help reduce the noise while the holes allow the air to be stripped at the same time.

    #30510
    riffraff
    Participant

    Awesome post Triggerman.

    I can see how this would be a great improvement idea for my own shroud. I never thought of the drilled tubing between the washers, I had a similar concept in my head but it didnt materialize into an idea like this. Well done bro!

    I love all this freedom of information in this community.

    #30511
    dnc
    Participant

    You guys ought to try this:

    Take a wooden dowel that fits inside of the shroud, drill a hole down the center for the pellet to go through, then make the side of it look like swiss cheese. It wont move, and it should get great performance.

    #30512
    triggerman
    Participant

    dnc-
    Something similar to that was one of my trial and errors. Did not use wood but used several different sized pieces of PVC pipe and CPVC pipe, all of which would slip into the other, building their size up to 1 inch. I did perforate them all with holes and that design was one of my many flops.

    #30514
    dnc
    Participant

    Yeah, that was just off the top of my head. What was the problem with it?

    #30515
    riffraff
    Participant

    I think what makes Triggermans design work so well, are the washers seperate the chambers.

    A drilled dowel doesnt change inner diameter, so the air doesnt really get too upset. I just finds the path of least resistance, which is straight down the tube.

    A washer lets a blast through, and then it expands into the chamber. The air still following the straight line then encounters another washer upsetting its flow, and is expanding again in the next chamber, ect…

    A series of spaced washers do essentially the same thing, but this idea allows you to use less washers which saves weight.

    Very cool.

    #30516
    dnc
    Participant

    I don’t exactly mean perforated.

    #30517
    riffraff
    Participant

    Ah, that kind of drilling. I was going to try something like that too, but in a cloverleaf pattern much like a design sombody here posted. ( I cant recall who it was)

    I bet this would work well too, but I wouldnt make it out of wood. Wood has a way of getting stuck inside of tight-fitting places. ( oh I can hear the snarfs over that one..)

    #30518
    dnc
    Participant

    lol. yeah. I think it was blodnob who posted the cloverleaf pattern. I am actually about to get one of his shrouds. I’m excited.

    Looking good triggerman. Tell us how it holds up.

    #30535
    get-the-blue-jay
    Participant

    Looks good trigger, I did kind of the same thing with the hole drilling Idea but I didn’t think about rapping the chambers. It was way to loud still so I took it apart and rapped the chambers with the carpenters band – aid (electrical tape) popped a cupel of holes in the tape and reassembled, worked out great with the kodiaks, not so good with cps.

    #30543
    photo22
    Participant

    Triggerman Great Info. and it looks like it’s very simple to make 😀

    #30554
    blackops
    Participant

    Looks nice Triggerman…

    How close is that first baffle to the end of the barrel? the first shortish looking spacer looks like it sets the baffle just a little off the muzzle? I talked with Hector a while ago and he suggested puting the first baffle approx 1/2 caliber from the muzzle and it was working fantastic for him. I have been using springs but havn’t gotten the first baffle that close. I am going to cut some PVC pipe to different lengths and see if it makes any difference in sound or accuracy?

    What power do you usually shoot at?

    I saw that cloverleaf design and thought it definitely looks cool…wonder how well it works?

    Do any/all of you guys have your frames vented?(very small holes drilled under the front grip).

    Thanks for posting this!

    Jim.

    #30555
    triggerman
    Participant

    Jim-

    The first fender washer is 1/4 inch infront of the barrel muzzle. Have not found that it makes any difference in accuracy or fps further out from the end of the barrel.

    The older SS I have the front bushing and frame vented. The new one is not vented and is quieter than the old one with vents.

    I have tophats set at 0.082 on both guns The new gun shoots Kodiaks at 760 – 770 fps, the old gun runs about 730 -735 with them. Both power wheels are set at 9. Got no clue here if the drop in fps of the old one is due to the venting or just because it is older, but that is all I can get out of it. Both are .22 cal also.

    #30563
    blackops
    Participant

    That is very interesting Triggerman. The frame vents sound like they aren’t helping in the sound department h-m-m-m-m I remember others saying they definitely heard air coming out of them after they did it. I always figured worst case was I’d have to put something in the front handle to kinda block off the holes or at least have the air blow into something like cotton or cloth.

    Have you done a hammer slap mod and o-ringed the valve stem yet also?

    Jim.

    #35002
    mikemilz
    Participant

    Made an exact replica of your moderator and she is more silent than before. I still will be looking tony up for a shroud tho, I like the way it looks on the gun. 😀

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 27 total)
  • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.