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Link of interest

Shrouds and Moderators

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Bump.

quote Bodhisdad:

Shaky. i used a 1/4″ drill bit, then used a propane torch (lighter would do) to singe the fuzz. This seals the whole washer and adds some stability to it, by melting it a bit.

I used a 5/16″ rod to wrap the hardware cloth, which i had laying around. Its the larger wholed variety, if i was to purchase i’d get the smallest hole that i could, 1/8″ i believe.

I believe the most important piece is the one which butts up against the barrels muzzle. I used a 7/8″ urethane (white plastic) washer, which is about a 1/8″ thick and had a 9/16″ hole in it. Then I drilled a series of holes around the rim to allow air to driven backward. It works as a vent as well as a back spacer to keep the rest of the baffles from moving around.

Next time i have the camera out i’ll snap a few pics.

Bump.

Shaky. i used a 1/4″ drill bit, then used a propane torch (lighter would do) to singe the fuzz. This seals the whole washer and adds some stability to it, by melting it a bit.

I used a 5/16″ rod to wrap the hardware cloth, which i had laying around. Its the larger wholed variety, if i was to purchase i’d get the smallest hole that i could, 1/8″ i believe.

I believe the most important piece is the one which butts up against the barrels muzzle. I used a 7/8″ urethane (white plastic) washer, which is about a 1/8″ thick and had a 9/16″ hole in it. Then I drilled a series of holes around the rim to allow air to driven backward. It works as a vent as well as a back spacer to keep the rest of the baffles from moving around.

Next time i have the camera out i’ll snap a few pics.

Say Bodi; I know you have a lot on your plate right now, but at some time in the future, would be interested in pics of your setup. What size holes did you put in the felt pieces?

Keep smiling dude!!!

Pilgrim the spacers serve as wipes for the projectile and a means for the gasses to escape and disperse. In a PB/rimfire this will slow the projectile down. It even states and i’ve read on other sites, that the wipes can be put in blank and the first shot will create the opening. This is not necessary or i think wanted in a air propelled projectile. Some of the info has to be tossed out and alternatives made to suit a AG. Hence i used felt washers vs. a triangle wipe or piece of stiff rubber like i’ve read elsewhere being used. The hardware cloth mesh is what does alot to keep the report down as it takes alot of the air into the mesh itself.

Wok, I will try to get some pics up later, have a Docs apt in a hour or so and its a good drive there and back. Plus i have the baffles in very tight, it will be a bitch to pull them out. In the future i will snip a bit off and wrap with a fabric so the bafles can slide out easier.

Think about what happens when a wound object like wire mesh is wound and then released. It tries to return to is original shape by unwinding. In the confines of the 1″ ali tube or say the 1.25″ frame of the TSS or Condor, it can’t unwind, just a bit it uncurls making it a tight fit in the shroud. If i can find metal screening of the right gauge i think that would be even better at dispersing the air. Also if one has a deflctor of sorts up in front of the barrel i would think that more air could be sent back into the dead space of the frame then sent through the bushing and out the frame. So far i’m happy with this arrangement, i’ll see if i can get some pics of it.

WOK will love the end cap 😳 but it works well and fits on snug. If only temporary, the boy is now short on of his little trucks 😀

Interesting that they use triangular shaped baffles. I wonder if that increases exposed surface area enough to make a discernible difference. I doubt it.

Less talk, more pictures 😛

Awesome news. I need to get my hands on some hardware cloth from somewhere. I got some 1″ OD x 1/8″ felt washers and some nylon shoulder washers. The shoulder washers ID is .26″ I’ve stuffed them through the center of the felt washers. I figure if nothing else they’ll keep wool hairs out of the way but I’m hoping they’ll help keep air in the baffles longer. All of this is going into a Logun. I’d like to be able to shoot these Eun Jins at 70 ft. lbs. and have it sound like it does with Exacts at about 800… just hammer smack.

This baffle/shroud arrangement works awesome, just got an temperary endcap on and it is more quiet then it has ever been. Spaced out the wound hardware cloth with felt washers 1/4″thick x 7/8″wide, the baffles (hardware cloth) were wound on a 5/16″ rod to create a nice path for the pellet. Baffles are anywhere from 3/4″ to 1.5″Lx 7/8″w, same as the 7/8″IDx1″OD ali tube which slides down to meet the front bushing. Bought a thin 1/8″ urethane washer 7/8″ in diameter and drilled a series of holes around the circumference of it so i can make use of the frames dead space from the end of barrel back to the front bushing which is also vented as well as the frame. Urethane washer just sits on the end of barrel then a 1″ baffle, felt washer 1.5″ baffle, felt washer and so on till the endcap you decide on fits snug against the last baffle or felt washer. I ended up with 3 baffles. I’m using 1/4″ spaced hardware cloth had some lying around so thats what i used. If i was to purchase some for this specificly i would get the tighest pattern and most pliable metal mesh. Give this one a try guys works awesome, so much so i thought i was getting soft shots. This is in a basement where noise has always been a issue with the confined space and concrete walls. But i had a 3000psi fill, Blodnob’s valve in and a 18″ barrel, had to shoot at a concrete block which suport the backstop/pellet trap and took a nice sized diviot out of the block which is a 75% solid concree unit. Sounded like about a 400fps shot but i know from the past i’m probably shoint up around 1000fps with Kodiaks 😆 Its a keeper. 1″ ali tubing 13″ long= $5, felt washers $2-$3, hardware cloth had it, urethane washer to act as a crown protector and vent $.40, Temporary endcap is a toy trucks rim 😆 Till i get my ali brech turned down to fit inside the ali tube. I thought i knew what quiet was with the expansion chamber, spacers and washer configuration i posted elsewhere on the site for the 12″TSS setup. Now i know just how quiet things can really get, scary quiet, like mouse fart. Priceless.

Any update as to the effectiveness of the hardware cloth configuration?

Anxious to hear your testing results!!!

Also, what size mesh did you choose, e.g., 8 strands to an inch, etc….

Very easy after you vice or anchor the rod, just spin the mesh on keeping it even as you wrap it around. I dry fired it yesterday with no endcap and it was pretty dam quiet. Still sanding down my old ali brech for an endcap. Only thing that moved was the last felt washer, the mesh is in tight. As i look down the barrel when the tank is off, i can see no obstructions.

If i were to slide it in the frame i’d leave some room for a fabric of some sort so the mesh can slide out easier. In the 1″ frame extender i made, its a tight fit and the mesh doesn’t want to slide out so easy. When you slip in the mesh it wants to unwind so it self seals in a way. I have a box full of misc. odds and ends from experimenting with different configurations, materials and think this to be the most effective and easy way of making things quiet.

So if the wire mesh works well in the confines of your extension, would it work as well in the SS with the 12″ barrel? I tried sometime last summer to do something similar with the wire mesh they use as “leaf barriers” on rain gutters. Was going to try and wrap felt around it. I gave up on wire mesh, as it kept cutting the hell out of my fingers. Is this hardware cloth any easier to deal with?

Like Python said, its the same principal as the haircurler and pad, only its all rigid metal screen. A .22 rimfire wouldn’t affect the hardware cloth. I did this because i was having trouble with alignment at 35/40fpes. Now i have my 18″ barrel in and pushing kodiaks at 1000+fps and don’t want any clipping issues. I used a pair of good tin snips to cut the metal screen to 1″ 1.5″ widths and about 12″ long, wrapped that around a 5/16″ rod i had in a vise. WHen its around a 1″ wide i slide it of the rod and take it to the shroud and slide it down, sometimes i had to snip a little off the coil but its a tight fit and can’t unwind in the shroud. Spaced the coils out with felt washers and am working on a endcap, which is an old ali brech i have. Just needs to be sanded down a little to fit in the 1″ tube.

Check out the link and read about the pieces used in its construction, I think its the best baffle around. Easy to make, cheap, effective and near indestrucable. Beats springs and 3=m pads which scrunch up after a dozen shots. You could also look into plastic washers/ urethane they are white come in different thicknesses and widths. I put 1 in front of the barrel and drilled a series of holes around the circumfrence to allow air to escape rearward as well. Haven’t shot it yet, but have messed with enough different setups to know this will work well, very well.

The use of hardware cloth (wire mesh) is advised because it is metal, yet is permeable and does a great job of slowing air. The metal stays cool, thus cooling the blast of air. The cooler the air, the denser… equals not so much left to blast out the end of the muzzle. I imagine the stiffness of the wire has something to do with it as well. The curlers are a support system for the pad when you still want to have a bit of an “expansion chamber” around the axial path… really not needed when you have so much “absorbant” material in there. It’s still recommended to create a couple of seperate baffles and have wipes with whichever method you use. That’s what we’re all here for is to figure this stuff out. I’d bet money that the wire mesh baffles is one of the most efficient methods that’s simple to put together. Especially for us folks with barrel ends rather than frames to shroud.

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