September 10, 2007 at 10:37 pm #24183
Great link, that one goes into my folder for sure. I will check out the others later when I have time.
Thanks for the info.September 10, 2007 at 10:53 pm #24184
😯 You WOULD NOT BELIEVE how well this mod. improves a mini-lathe!!! 😯
p.s.– 💡 We need a topic dedicated to lathes/machining!
Anthony266/Adam in SoCal?–hint-hintSeptember 10, 2007 at 10:55 pm #24185quote :
I couldnt agree more.September 10, 2007 at 11:05 pm #24187cygnus-x-d82Participant
thanks for the links….there is a bit of chatter…but my cutting die usually fixes this….
the problem is that the tool is not hitting the same place, couple of cuts and it cutting a groove as supposed to…and then suddenly decides to cut the top of the thread, basicly ruining the whole thing
i have tried that cutting at an angle….i messed up and gave up after a couple of try’s
i think i had mine at a 29 degree angle ….but from the wrong angle…i will try that again tomorrow see if helps with the chatter….cant get much worse….
using the numbers…as long as you use the same everytime your fine no matter what….but some threads alow you to just pick one instead of waitng for a particular one to come around…
got the frame threads done on 2 pieces and on one practice piece….then the tip broke off the tool as i got too eager….and the carbide tools i bought where very cheap…its not the first time it happens…luckily i was done and i allready got some bits that i made my self…so im ready for some machining tomorrrow….
the treads going in to the bottle actually came out pretty good i think…after a quick grind with a thread file…they look good…and they screw into the bottle real nice…no wiggle…no slack…just smoothSeptember 10, 2007 at 11:09 pm #24188yParticipant
I third that !!!….
Give me somewhere to post my shop pics…September 11, 2007 at 12:02 am #24190
You need to cut a clearance area where the threads end. The smaller dia. (< or = minor thread dia.)
will provide a relief allowing the tool to gracefully “emerge” at the end of each pass!
Enough relief area will give you room/time to stop the motor and will leave a very nice transition.
💡 You might also cut a 30 Deg. bevel at the end BEFORE u start threading–will make it easier to screw in after your done.
Hang in there— 8)September 11, 2007 at 1:47 am #24198quote martin777:quote Shadoh:quote Yellow Ninja:
Holy New Topic–Batman!!!
First Class–Good Show!!!
September 11, 2007 at 2:02 am #24202
Well, its just a name change to one thats already there )September 11, 2007 at 4:07 am #24206mcmikeParticipant
I know it’s nice to be able to turn threads but why aren’t you guys not using the tool that is meant to cut threads? (Don’t know the proper english name).
I mean if you are doing lots of valves and need same threads all the time it would be so much easier and you could never make it wrong.
I mean this kind of tool:
September 11, 2007 at 4:33 am #24207
For me, the large tap and dies are rather expensive. If I can cut them for free on my lathe I go that route.September 11, 2007 at 5:21 am #24208yParticipantquote mcMike:
Thats a DIE, the one that cuts a female thread is the TAP.
I use them for small threads, but like Shadoh said, the large sizes are rather expensive to get one nevermind a whole set. Different materials require difference tolerances when cutting threads so the general purpose dies have a lot of leeway in them which means they wont be as good as a machine cut one that can be custom tailored to specific tolerances.September 11, 2007 at 7:27 am #24216mcmikeParticipantquote Yellow Ninja:
Oh yes. DIE it was. Thanks.
And that explains. Price and accuracy. I agree. If you are looking perfect precision then you need to turn it. But boy do I hate turning threads manually. One simple slip and you have scrap part or damaged lathe in worst case. Or dent on the forehead…. which actually reminds me why I hate turning threads… 😕
I need to start re-improving my turning skills since there seems to be so many nice mods you can do for Talon (most which require turning and threads). I have access to a nice semi-CNC lathe. You can just enter the thread specs there and press button – it will turn the thread for you. No need to worry about damage or hitting anything. Need some practice to operate that though.September 11, 2007 at 7:06 pm #24249blodnobParticipant
Does your lathe have a reverse ? I dont take my lathe out of gear once ive done the first pass. I put a clock on the toolpost go in 5 , do a pass, stop machine, then retract the toolpost to 5 past zero and reverse. Then start again +5 from the last pass.
I have a few spare 14tpi full form tips if you would like one.
For the bottle threads i just use a split die in my tail stock doodaa.
September 11, 2007 at 10:04 pm #24252walkonkingParticipant
Thank for those picts. I really need to get back in the shop and fix my lathe. Your post are making me want to make things.September 12, 2007 at 12:06 am #24253quote blodnob:
Where did you get those tips? 😯 Have a link?
❓ Is that a chunk of hex bar stock your threading?
That’s cheating! 😛
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