Q:

lathe trouble

had to quit my project today…was getting way angry to continue working.

here’s the deal….i had machined most of 5 valvebody’s as i knew i would probably mess one or 2 up…that took me about 3-4 hours to do, which is ok since i had to figure out some stuff as i went along.

came to the external 18mmx1.5mm that goes into the bottle…gearing ratios in the manual is not very precise…for 1.5mm thread….after a bit of googling in found the right ratio’s changed gears and started to cut as i allways do adding .002″ pr cut…..

first cut ran perfectly, with a nice clean cut…i thought it was going to be easy….second cut looked slightly off but i find that sometimes it takes a couple cuts to make it look right….third cut strips the thread…arghhhh…WTF….check threading dail…its as its supposed to…check gears if it can skip or something…all is good

cutting tool is firmly mounted…cant see that doing it…..

im using cutting oil as supposed to….

i tried cutting in some aluminum just to check….and i simply dont get whats going on….

anyone have a clue …..as to what is going on….lathe is one of those minilathe from cummings

Mods/Machinists

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Viewing 15 replies - 1 through 15 (of 38 total)

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No lead screw change necessary. The supplied gear set is accurate enough “for a few diameters of thread engagement…”.

Good mini-lathe metric/english gear ratio/%error stuff—>

http://www.varmintal.com/alath.htm#Cutting_Odd_Threads

Gadget,

Thanks a lot for that info, sheds a lot of light on the problem.

I’d always assumed that simply replacing the lead screw would totally fix the metric/imperial issue and that you could even cut metric threads albeit slightly off using the parts the lathe comes with, not that I had ever tried.

Thanks GadgetBuilder.com, Voltar on TOG allready told me this and after trying not to disengange the threads…all is good…whish they would have said that in the manual

i got 3½ valve bodys to work out of 5….the ½ one is a little wobley and i wouldnt sell that to anyone…

today a new valve design…an crossover between alot that i have seen on TOG lately…and what i thought would work

result is a huge valve with( about ½”) a small seat (.350″) huge ports and .100″ travel….3200 psi is easy to knock open…and produced ….hold on….

726 FPS with a 405 grain 475 FPE and thats before i really have begun tweaking…yay

Hi Cygnus,

The problem you’ve run into with metric threading on an imperial lathe is common. Your method of not using the threading dial and instead keeping the half-nuts engaged is the only practical solution. I use a handwheel for most threading for better control of the stop point and this also makes winding back to the start point easy.

Metric threading is a bit of a hassle even on a lathe with a metric leadscrew – they need interchangeable gears on the threading dial. The difference is that imperial threads are specified as threads per inch while metric threads are specified the other way around e.g. mm per thread. That is: distance per thread instead of threads per distance — and this subtlety makes all the difference.

Best book I’ve seen on threading is “Screwcutting in the Lathe” by Martin Cleeve. He explains metric threading on an imperial lathe and lots more – one of my favorite machining books. This jig for sharpening threading tools is from the book: http://www.gadgetbuilder.com/ThreadingTools.html

John

The tips are from good old E,bay. I got a full pack of ten for less than £20 deliverd. It’s a bit of a waiting game for the correct tpi to turn up but i begrudge paying £10+ for individual ones from a tool supplier. The one shown is the first i got at the begining of the year with the holder and is still going strong. They’re full form so i leave the unthreaded part of the valve over size and go to true size with the thread tool.
Hex bar is as cheap ( £30 for two foot ) as the round bar. I get all my steel from Sheffield metals as he will let me have as small amount as i need and he’s even deliverd it to my door for free on the odd occasion as his son lives quite close to me
Sean. 😉

got the modded blodnop valve up and running….turned ou the delrin could move with the stem and thats was limiting power..funny enough it wasnt leaking

fixed a new delrin and this time glued it in place real good

added an oring at the top of the sleeve in which the stem glides in….at the top theres the least pressure on it from the air that want to blow by…proably the best oring fit i have ever done….

3000 psi….405 grain…696 fps …..thats about 430-440 FPE !!! gotta try with some higher pressure than 3000 might be able to push it further…

but i got visitors now staing for 14 days…so cant spend all the time in the dungeon

i got the big dies…..but no tool to ffed them with plus getting them straight on i find very difficult…..

lastly i dont think the lathe has enough tourque to thread the stuff

Blodnop….i turned a new valvebody yesterday mostly like yours…but with a few mods.

weird thing is that is not making the power yours was, which is weird as its 90% the same…just a bit longer internal sleeve

got the 29 degree cutting to work…pretty cool…and it did work better and more smooth

For brass I use old king pin bushings out of big trucks–>http://www.talonownersgroup.com/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=6879&highlight=&sid=e081077be131661f3f39355a54ebcdfc
I don’t have,want or need any hard ass stainless but I’m sure my local scrap yard would have plenty. They sell all that stuff (brass,aluminum,stainless,etc.) by the pound cheap but sometimes you have to dig for it.

Yes, a link to those tips please.

Where do all you folks buy your stainless and brass from? Im having a terrible time finding any that isnt big bucks. Maybe Im just dreaming and it really costs those big numbers to get anywhere.

quote blodnob:

14tpi full form tips

Where did you get those tips? 😯 Have a link?

❓ Is that a chunk of hex bar stock your threading?

That’s cheating! 😛

Big B,

Thank for those picts. I really need to get back in the shop and fix my lathe. Your post are making me want to make things.

Hey Cyg’
Does your lathe have a reverse ? I dont take my lathe out of gear once ive done the first pass. I put a clock on the toolpost go in 5 , do a pass, stop machine, then retract the toolpost to 5 past zero and reverse. Then start again +5 from the last pass.
I have a few spare 14tpi full form tips if you would like one.


For the bottle threads i just use a split die in my tail stock doodaa.


quote Yellow Ninja:

Thats a DIE, the one that cuts a female thread is the TAP.

I use them for small threads, but like Shadoh said, the large sizes are rather expensive to get one nevermind a whole set. Different materials require difference tolerances when cutting threads so the general purpose dies have a lot of leeway in them which means they wont be as good as a machine cut one that can be custom tailored to specific tolerances.

Oh yes. DIE it was. Thanks.
And that explains. Price and accuracy. I agree. If you are looking perfect precision then you need to turn it. But boy do I hate turning threads manually. One simple slip and you have scrap part or damaged lathe in worst case. Or dent on the forehead…. which actually reminds me why I hate turning threads… 😕

I need to start re-improving my turning skills since there seems to be so many nice mods you can do for Talon (most which require turning and threads). I have access to a nice semi-CNC lathe. You can just enter the thread specs there and press button – it will turn the thread for you. No need to worry about damage or hitting anything. Need some practice to operate that though.

quote mcMike:

Hello,

I know it’s nice to be able to turn threads but why aren’t you guys not using the tool that is meant to cut threads? (Don’t know the proper english name).
I mean if you are doing lots of valves and need same threads all the time it would be so much easier and you could never make it wrong.

I mean this kind of tool:

Thats a DIE, the one that cuts a female thread is the TAP.

I use them for small threads, but like Shadoh said, the large sizes are rather expensive to get one nevermind a whole set. Different materials require difference tolerances when cutting threads so the general purpose dies have a lot of leeway in them which means they wont be as good as a machine cut one that can be custom tailored to specific tolerances.

For me, the large tap and dies are rather expensive. If I can cut them for free on my lathe I go that route.

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