Q:

It Did It Again!

This afternoon I had a squirrel in my sights just as pretty as you please. I squeezed off the shot and not much happened. The gun expelled just enough air to blow the pellet out of the barrel, but it didn’t even make it to the target. The squirrel didn’t even know that I was shooting at it!

The last time that it did this Adam recommended that I lube the hammer, or breech? Where, and how much? Any and all suggestions are welcome including possible operator errror scenerios.

Oh the squirrel, well my second shot must have missed by milimeters because he jumped straight up and tried to hide in the tree. The third shoot went through the left shoulder and out the right ear. This is my first Talon SS kill. Thanks Cyg for the tip about the sunflower seeds. I am looking forward to getting the bugs out of this gun.

Talon/Talon SS

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Viewing 15 replies - 31 through 45 (of 50 total)

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I always appreciate encouragement. It is the single most valuable piece of the sucess puzzle. It is what engenders faith. Encouragement is priceless. So this weekend, when the wife and kids take off for her parents, I’m going to start all over again.

I too googled “parallax” and found an essay written by a guy who claims to be an optics engineer. One of the things that he stated was that as you dial up the magnification, you also increase the errors that are built into the scope, expoentially. So I am sure that you guys are right about reducing magnification.

Steve,

I was overwhelmed when I first started using scopes. They seemed to be some sort of mechanical devices reserved only for engineers and geniuses to master. The instructions were not much help either. What to do? I googled scopes or something similar and started reading away. Absorbing what I could understand. The high technical advice was a little out of my grasp. Well, I played around and bit by bit was able to figure things out. Mostly by trial and error. It worked. I am no scope guru by any means but I can easily adjust mine with in a matter of five shots. I recommend just playing around and see what happens. Like Adam said, decrease your magnification and you will be amazed at how well things fall into place.

DH

So is it my scope, A BSA 3X12-50mm AO Air Gun model, or is it all scopes? What I have realized is that most of my serious shooting is done at fairly close ranges; 12 – 35 feet. This scope’s AO adjusts down to 30 feet. My practice distance is about 50 feet. I’m wondering if I need to try a 4X Bug Buster?

It has been driving me crazy. I feel like I am chasing a wild goose. I practice and get them all going into a circle the size of a nickle. Then when I return later, the POI has shifted right, left, up, or down. So I shoot 5-10 shots and the all make one ragged hole, but where I had the scope set the last time I was shooting. Hmmm. I think that my SS is consistant. I believe that my scope is doing its job. That leaves me. There is something that I do not understand about scopes. The learning curve.

WoK,

That is some excellent advice about decreasing magnification. I found that out only by trial and error, and certainly not overnight either.

You put that well, and it works. Period.

DH

quote SteveinLA:

Thanks Adam, I am going to start with the graphite. If that doesn’t work, then the polishing operation will clean up any mess made with the graphite.

Just got squirrel No. 2. Again, not an instant kill. He hopprd away…to a waiting kitty cat. That was one intense look on that cats face when it pounced. I just gotta get more accurate with this gun. I don’t get it…I’ve made numerous head and c-spine shots on ground squirrels with my 392 and its aperature sights…why can’t I do it with my scoped SS? Still learing and not giving up!

Thanks again!

Good rule of thumb. If you are missing decrease your magnification on your scope and you will be surprised how your kills increase.

Thanks Adam, I am going to start with the graphite. If that doesn’t work, then the polishing operation will clean up any mess made with the graphite.

Just got squirrel No. 2. Again, not an instant kill. He hopprd away…to a waiting kitty cat. That was one intense look on that cats face when it pounced. I just gotta get more accurate with this gun. I don’t get it…I’ve made numerous head and c-spine shots on ground squirrels with my 392 and its aperature sights…why can’t I do it with my scoped SS? Still learing and not giving up!

Thanks again!

quote SteveinLA:

Should I stay or should I go?
C’mon and let me know…
Should I stay or should I go?

I feel like Gilligan in the middle of an arguement between the Skipper and the Professor… 😀
or like Larry between Moe and Curly 😀

Seriously, there is always good information here, even when it contradicts.

Thanks guys

Spritz a little graphite in it and work the hammer back and fourth. Then go shoot it. Remember a little goes a long way. If you want to polish it then in my opinion that should be done last not first. I have even used a dry spray lubricant in the past that works fine. All solutions do not always end up with an overhaul of your gun. Sometimes KISS is a good policy.

Should I stay or should I go?
C’mon and let me know…
Should I stay or should I go?

I feel like Gilligan in the middle of an arguement between the Skipper and the Professor… 😀
or like Larry between Moe and Curly 😀

Seriously, there is always good information here, even when it contradicts.

Thanks guys

quote Bodhisdad:

Ditch that i’ve tried them both all that happens is it attracts debris, lead dust, dust dust. Try using a a large swab and some polish and shine up the inside of the frame. I used a long drill bit and wrapped it with a tee-shirt cut into a 6″/7″ strip. Wrapped it till it was a tight fit, then added some MAAS jewelers polish/cleaner/wax, and spun it up in the frme from the brech end. Worked great and added 25fps. Use a variable speed drill and don’t over do it. I plugged the trigger assembly with bits of the cut T-shirt, trigger guard screw just into the hole. Keep an eye on it as it will work its way in. Wrap the swab counter clockwise and it will stay tight on the bit. The anodized inner surface is plenty slick and works well when shined up. I also did some polishing on the delrin guides, but i have special high grit/micron paper and wouldn’t advise doing this with carbide sandpaper. You could try some of the polishes/rouges in different grits, finish qualities. They have bits of abrasive in them.Choice is yours, just telling you what i’ve found, under my circumstances.

But you used ACETONE mixed in with graphite. That totally would not work and defeats the idea of a dry lubricant. And would gunk it up. Whoever told you to use Acetone as a carrier for graphite played a mean joke on you.
I dont know where you guys shoot but I am in the dirt and in the woods all the time. My gun internals do not “Attract debris”. I use a bipod to put my gun on the ground so my gun never is the ground to get debris inside. Dry lubricant work well….that is what it is utilized for.

Most of the garbage you are going to be getting in the internal of the gun is lead dust and debris from delrin wear. If you are getting dirt, lint, sand in your internals then find out how it is getting in there.

Thanks Bodhisdad,
I have read elsewhere that people polish the inside of the frame. Now I understand why. Thanks for the tips.
Happy Turkey Day to all!

Good morning,
In the thread, “Squirrels, Lots Of Them”, I asked Cygnus X what was in the bowl that attracts the squirrels like a magnet? He said something about black oil sunflower seeds. He also made mention of birds and squirrels seem to feed together, so put out a bird feeder, or broadcast birdseed mix around the area. I think that this info is on page 4 or 5 of that thread. Nothing like learning from a master.
Happy Turkey Day 😀

quote SteveinLA:

Thanks Cyg for the tip about the sunflower seeds.

Did I miss something?
what was the sunflower tip?

Too bad the fist shot diddn’t get him.. I’v been there 🙁 at least you got him in the end, congrats on the first drawn blood with your ss.
(note to self-you can’t spell before coffee intake)

Ditch that i’ve tried them both all that happens is it attracts debris, lead dust, dust dust. Try using a a large swab and some polish and shine up the inside of the frame. I used a long drill bit and wrapped it with a tee-shirt cut into a 6″/7″ strip. Wrapped it till it was a tight fit, then added some MAAS jewelers polish/cleaner/wax, and spun it up in the frme from the brech end. Worked great and added 25fps. Use a variable speed drill and don’t over do it. I plugged the trigger assembly with bits of the cut T-shirt, trigger guard screw just into the hole. Keep an eye on it as it will work its way in. Wrap the swab counter clockwise and it will stay tight on the bit. The anodized inner surface is plenty slick and works well when shined up. I also did some polishing on the delrin guides, but i have special high grit/micron paper and wouldn’t advise doing this with carbide sandpaper. You could try some of the polishes/rouges in different grits, finish qualities. They have bits of abrasive in them.Choice is yours, just telling you what i’ve found, under my circumstances.

I actually have powdered graphite. I use it for locks. I’ll give it a try.
Thanks

quote Yellow Ninja:

quote SteveinLA:

Hi, I have lubed the internal O rings that slide on the barrel. Do I also lube the larger O rings that the hamer rides on…the one on the outside of the hammer?

Not with silicone you dont. Divers Silcone is used on the o-rings to prevent wear and provide a better seal. It will slow down your hammer and cause more problems for you. (They are not O-rings on the outside of the hammer, they are delrin bushings)

If you have access to powdered graphite that can be used as a lube the hammer. Personally I havent lubed my hammer, but WOK and several others have with good results, but it sounds like a dry lube is best. Wet lubes tend to attract dirt with it being an open design.

You can get powdered Graphite or Teflon from a hobby shop. It usually is in the section where they sell pinewood derby cars.

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