Idea, need input

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  • #272081
    caboose212
    Participant

    So here’s a thought:

    Powderburner suppressors sometimes use a compensator as both the suppressor mount and as the blast baffle. I’ve now talked to two guys who run empty cans (or mostly empty). What if I literally took a page out of the powderburner’s page and used a muzzle brake in addition to the empty can? What are y’all’s thoughts? All I’d have to do is thread the barrel (I should have enough meat for that) for the muzzle brake…

    Type of muzzle brakes I’m talking about:

    #272089
    rrdstarr
    Participant

    I have been working on an integrated brake and can. Trying to make it small enough to be useable is the hard part.

    #272090
    caboose212
    Participant

    Yeah, in your position, I can see that being difficult…

    But I’ve got 1.75″+ ID to work with… I think I’m going to go the full 12″ length. 2″ OD… Hmmmm…

    #272091
    rrdstarr
    Participant

    6″ long and 1.250 OD max. Brake will be 1″ OD and 1 1/2″ long. This will work with any rifle with 1/2 X 28 threads.

    #272129
    caboose212
    Participant

    Well, I can’t get the muzzle end threaded for 1/2-28 because threads are scary… No matter! I wasn’t too keen on spending more money on that experiment!

    I’ve decided to go with a 1.5″ O.D. tube, 1.37″ I.D. The 1 piece barrel bushing/shroud mount will be the same. The shroud’s end cap will have a radial cone on the inside.

    Not sure at this point how to stuff it. Or if I’m going to stuff it at all. I want to try to put a 1″ spacer between the muzzle and the first baffle. First baffle is a radial cone, then either empty air between the first baffle and the end cap, or something… Time will tell I guess.

    #272144
    rrdstarr
    Participant

    Pictures when you get a chance!
    Will do the same when I start mine.

    #272146
    caboose212
    Participant

    will do!!

    #272312
    caboose212
    Participant

    Here’s a pic of the end cap:

    Not sure how much of an effect the radial cone end cap will have on the sound level. I decided to get the 6.5″ L 1.5″ O.D. tube. I wonder how quiet this .30 will be?

    #272314
    rrdstarr
    Participant

    Nice work! CNC machined?

    #272315
    caboose212
    Participant
    quote Rrdstarr:

    Nice work! CNC machined?

    yessir!

    #272316
    caboose212
    Participant

    I’ll revisit the 2″ O.D. LDC when I get around to my .357 Texan. I’m trying to make this .30 condor as small as possible, so it’s my first focus. Plus, I already have the .30 condor to modify. I don’t yet have a Texan. :biggrinn:

    #272731
    caboose212
    Participant

    I had another thought- Bear with me, it’s hard to get my ideas out when I get (at least I think so) a good idea…

    I know I’m using a 2″ O.D. tube, and the longest I can get one (manufactured, not handmade) is 12″.

    I want to set this rifle up as short as possible w/o giving up barrel length…

    So this means that I’ll have to vent some air behind the muzzle, as well as have some sort of baffling in front of the muzzle…

    I’ll use the muzzle as the “half-way” point, and vent 6″ to the rear and 6″ forward…

    I’ll use this design as my “blast baffle”/air stripper/shroud support, that allows the air to flow to the rear of the LDC:

    I’ll also drill vent holes near the LDC mount to vent the air. Tony and Doug do this, and their LDC’s are VERY effective! Size and number is the difference, and I’ll not give that away- I’m not sure how Doug would feel about that.

    I’m not sure how I’ll baffle the front, but I know it’ll be a monocore. I’m not messing with individual baffles… It’s just too close to powderburner territory, and I don’t want to go there. It looks like that air stripper is 3″ long, so I’ll only have a small amount of room in front of the shroud for a monocore… I’ll play with the design when the time comes… Besides, with the .357, I’m only looking to take out the crack, not make it sound like a suppressed 12 fpe .22. I think I’ll be happy with this.

    Anyhoo, I guess I should re-name this thread “The .357 Texan LDC” :biggrinn: This is where I’m at for now, since I won’t even begin to make anything until after I have a .357 Texan, and have the new barrel and 1 piece barrel bushing/LDC mount machined…

    #272739
    rrdstarr
    Participant

    Like the idea of the air stripper! Never gave that a thought when designing suppressors. 1.875” ID. Should be plenty big to capture the air volume of the .357 Texan.

    The book I am reading now is all about wet suppressors and have done them before for .22lr’s. capturing the heat is part of the factor in quieting a powder burner even in .22lr. I know heat is not an issue for Airgun’s but I will tell you that water based gels work well in dampening noise too! They do stay in place once spun on a lathe and an oversized patch is run in to make sure you have no obstructions. The book also mentions cooper(non-rusting) scouring pad as a great heatsink for the expansion chamber and holding water based gels.

    I still have a variable sized air stripper, .177 – .41 caliber I may have to modify……

    Yes I had a manufacturing license to make suppressors!

    #273435
    Anonymous
    Inactive

    Holy cow, You guys keep on and doing your stuff,
    I am a little envies I do not have the machines for this stuff,
    The gel in the LDC is going to be the way to go,
    I think it will be the next wave of the very well built LDC.
    Mike

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