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I need a hand, big time, w/my 22 cal Condor SS

Home Forums AirForce Condor/Condor SS I need a hand, big time, w/my 22 cal Condor SS

This topic contains 4 replies, has 5 voices, and was last updated by  fomen 4 months ago.

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  • #498083

    royinidaho
    Participant

    Form the day it was born it suffers random zero shifts It shoots bug holes at 50 yds but shifts zero.

    The original top hat wouldn’t stay tight, but fixing that didn’t help the problem.

    Replaced the factory top hat with the Talon Tunes, multi-insert tophat. Performance greatly improved but didn’t solve the zero shifting.

    Then the TT tophat failed so I made my own. Still shits zeros.

    I then innovated a frame stiffener, a piece of flat iron between the pistol grip screw and the butt plate with a machine screw on the butt end for tuning. It was a swag but danged if it didn’t improve the zero shifts. Though not completely. 20 shot groups eat a quarter size hole. However shooting 20 separate targets one shot each round Robbin shots several small groups by several consecutive shots.

    Then things went to hell in a hand basket… Both “plastic” ends of the hammer failed. A visit to Ace Hardware and some lathe time and I was able to replace the factory hammer with a 70 oz version. Lucked out again! Getting avg velocity of 880 FPS out of the recently arrived JSB 25.49 gr Redesigned pellets.

    Did sight in with no baffles. Shot around 2” groups at 50 yds. Avg velocity was 880 FPS for the 25 shot string or 30 psi per shot.

    Installed the moderator baffles for the next string starting at the same 2750 psi pressure and the same pwr wheel setting, max.

    Guess what, point of impact went up 4 MOA, shot count dropped to 12 for the same amount of air used or 60 psi per shot. What’s with that?

    I’m gonna order the heavier than factory spring and a barrel baffle w/holes for the end of the barrel.

    I’ve had this rig for 3 years and put many thousands of pellets through her and have taken hundreds of pests but have never had a shooting session that I haven’t had to rezero, some times several times.

    She’s factory except for the hammer, which produces way more velocity consistency than the factory hammer

    This is pretty much like being married to the wrong woman… Maybe a divorce is in order. Maybe I’ll remarry an FX.

    If anybody reads this whole darn thing and has any advice for an old man, I’d certainly appreciate hearing from ya.

    #499237

    rkm
    Participant

    Did I read that right-70 oz.hammer?
    That seems WAY WAY too heavy
    I’m guessing it got louder too!
    wouldn’t even 7 oz. be too heavy and waste air without a velocity increase?

    #500516

    miksatx
    Participant

    Probably 70grams hammer!

    #508614

    onebaddj
    Participant

    I have had this issue twice once was the sticker on the hammer spring. Not sure exactly how that was causeing issues but once removed it cleared up. The other was when i had about 1/8 in play in my baffles. They were tight but when hit with 3600 psi they would move and restack changing the poi. Never tipped the end of the shroud, just effected poi. As long as all of your barrel bushings are tight, so all harmonics are the same not much else i can really think of.

    #529716

    fomen
    Participant

    Don’t give up on your gun. I’m 99% sure your problem is you’re using too much air. You’re wasting it. There’s a reason people like Tony at TT charge money to tune these guns. It’s a fine art that takes work. When you’re tuning the Condor platform, there are multiple facets that need to be tweaked. I always suggest people regulate their Condors, Talons, or Escapes. Especially if you’re going to be shooting pellets out of them, and not slugs. That in and of itself eliminates 90% of the complaints people have about their AF rifles.

    There are the 3 things that effect accuracy and need to be tuned. Pressure in bottle, power wheel adjustment, and length of stroke of the tophap when the hammer hits it. If the gun is regulated, you just eliminated any issues with the pressure in the bottle. The last item mention is the most overlooked, but potentially the most important. If the length of stroke of your tophat is too long, then your valve is staying open too long. The pressure will determine the velocity you achieve. The power wheel and length of stroke of the tophat determine how long the valve stays open. Obviously the power wheel increased or decreases the power of the hammer when it strikes the breech. If you lower the power on the wheel, then the breech strike is less violent, and the pressure behind the bottle will close the valve more quickly. Basic physics. But the power wheel and length of stroke need to work in unison in order to play well together.

    First of all, are you using the stock tophat? If you are, then loosen the two tiny (.050) set screws on the neck of the tophat, and turn the top section clockwise until the two sections are even with each other where the air exits the orifice. This will shorten the tophat by about 3/32″, which seems insignificant, but actually has a massive effect on what you’re trying to accomplish. Then lock the set screw back down. You have the flexibility to adjust the length of stroke of the valve by doing this. When you fire your gun, you should hear a very brief “POP”. Not a long, bang that echoes. Once the pellet leaves the muzzle, if there’s excess air behind it, then it immediately gets destabilized, effecting your accuracy. Those .22 pellets fly the best at 880-900 FPS. So your velocity is good. Just too much air behind it.

    If you have a chronograph, then adjust the tophat like I told you, and turn the power wheel to full power. Check your velocity. If you’re not hitting 880-900 FPS at full power after adjusting the tophat, then loosen the set screws and raise the top portion of the tophat slightly. Then repeat until you hit 880-900 fps with the power wheel at full power. Then start to back off the power wheel until you see the velocity start to drop. You might go from 12-10 before you see this happen. The slowly and methodically crank it back up until you find the sweet spot. Just enough air to get your pellet to reach it’s perfect velocity, with no waster air behind it to destabilize it. Then go sight in your gun again. You should have 1/2″ or less groups at 50 yards if you set it right.

    Another issue may be how you’re holding the gun. Unfortunately AF rifles are hold sensitive. You don’t need to shoulder the crap out of it. Especially if you’re shooting pellets. Let the gun do the work for you. If you have the valve, tophap, power wheel, and pressure set up properly, the hammer strike will not be violent at all, and you’ll have minimal harmonics.

    Also, I would recommend trying some heavier JSB pellets in your gun. The heavier pellets typically have a better ballistic coefficient, thus they not only carry more energy downrange, but they have improved accuracy. Downside is you need more holdover for longer shots. But not by much.

    Try those things first.

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