Q:

Hammer time !

Hello All,

Got some sparetime to kill at work today and decided to make quick hammermod.

Yesterday I took the gun apart and had factory hammer with me at work and frankly I was quite disappointed for it’s quality and design. It is made from unfinished “raw” steel tube with el cheapo plastic bushings.

Since I have long time wanted to improve the silencing I went directly to lathe without any designing. Turned the new hammer from brass just to try out if O-ring mod works. It is 22×3 mm and I turned 2mm deep slot for it. The slot is also tapered so the ring can’t escape by itself. I have seen similar mods but usually the o-rings are on the breech sleeve.

I am little concerned about friction but this evening I will know better. If it works I can improve the design or totally redesign it. I would like to add teflon (PTFE) “anti-friction rings” for final model.

btw, The standard Talon hammer weights 46.06 grams (checked with calibrated scale). New one is 56.02g since I wanted to add little mass to help stabilazing friction.

Comments and critique welcome!

-Mike

Mods/Machinists

All Replies

Viewing 15 replies - 1 through 15 (of 25 total)

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quote Blackops:

Flipping amazing…you guys are doing such good work I’m going to be ashamed to show any hack work I do 😆

That CAD drawing looks a whole hell of a lot better than my paintshop stuff LMAO 😆 😆 😆

Jim.

Jim,

We have guys here that are mind blowing, McMike, Marc, Blodnob, Buba, Beargrease, Rabbits , Cyg, MM1235, and a entire crew of talented craftsmen. I know I have left some names out so forgive me.

We are glad to have them and give them a forum to show us their projects and mad inventions 😛

Flipping amazing…you guys are doing such good work I’m going to be ashamed to show any hack work I do 😆

That CAD drawing looks a whole hell of a lot better than my paintshop stuff LMAO 😆 😆 😆

Jim.

I think that Leupy/Drum in the UK has a design for a self lubricating hammer with a particular type of plastic as the core with a brass sleeve to make up the weight.

quote Shadoh:

I think its a good idea except for the hammer catch spring pushing up on the barrel.

You lost me?

Anyway, I went for a different mod. The plain brass against frame in earlier hammer worried me so I made another temporary solution before figuring out the best hammer.

I was aiming for 75grams but the darn thing went under. 74.98grams exactly 😀 I know I’m gonna miss those 2/100 grams for sure…

The slides are POM and pressed into inside drafted (conical) surface so you can’t take them away without tools but more importantly they won’t come out by themselves. I finalized (turned and grinded) the POM outer surfaces after they were attached for perfect precision.

There is also spring guide on the back on the POM slide. In the front there is place for leather anti-slap plate designed so that the POM slide itself will never touch the breech sleeve but the hit is taken by leather “diffuser”. (sorry about the terminology. I’m too tired and can’t think proper words in english currently :D).

-Mike

I dont remember who did it but I remember pictures of almost that exact setup. I think its a good idea except for the hammer catch spring pushing up on the barrel.

Hello Guys,

Has anyone tried this style hammer-slide setup?
Polish the barrel allmost all the way to the first bushing. Have very slippery Teflon or similar slide INSIDE hammer and slide on the barrel. No touching to frame at all.

Am I missing something important or why this method seems better to me than sliding on the frame? You would get perfect slide since the barrel is polished. You could use long spring guide at the end of hammer. You could use more mass if wanted. You could easily put O-ring slapmod or leather. The point of impact would be more near and precisely of the tophat center-axis. I think you can even forget the thinned slot for trigger travel and use plain cylinder on OD.

-Mike

quote mcMike:

Anodized aluminium (frame) is not very good surface to slide anything no matter what.

FOR SURE!

quote mcMike:

Make a tube from teflon…

A tube insert type thingy with a sear slot. EXCELLENT idea!
Make it long enough to fix the breech slide slop too!

quote mcMike:

visible marks on the hammer from trigger…

That dam sear scraping the bottom of the hammer has GOT to effect consistancy and just plain pisses me off.
I will dream-up a fix tonight.
The problem is that only a few of my dreams are remembered :mrgreen:

Adam; Thanks. Great pic. That explains it.
Like others mentioned there might be a problem with trigger and it’s slot. Also I would like to use Teflon and as far as I know there isn’t any glue in the world for that. But the simple holes would probably be enaugh since the button can’t escape anywhere.

Shadow; I shot 2 tanks on the forrest this morning and for me the consistency with O-ring was not a problem during quick tests. But I am not great shooter so everyone needs to try themselves.

I also thought the leather but think it this way; The O-ring will keep it’s precise shape until it breaks since it’s elastic. Leather will deform slap by slap. Maybe slowly and predictable or maybe not.

But one thing is sure. The O-ring WILL take a way some power. More than 10% based on my quick and limited testing.

edit: Just opened the gun and there was visible marks on the hammer from trigger and frame ID. Good thing is that the brass seems to be softer than frame so it will wear instead of frame. Also noticed that the spring WILL rotate hammer. It had trigger wear marks on 90-degree section already.

I was concerned with that as well. I thought the soft O-ring might be too much of a cushion. Thats why I went with the flat rubber washer instead of the O-ring. Personally my consistency is great. I cant speak for the O-ring guys though. The leather would be even stiffer than a rubber solution while still absorbing the harsh slap.

what does that do to the consistancy of your shots?

Dan

It is a version of the hammer slap mod. It has been done many different ways. Anything you do to get rid of that SLAP when the hammer strikes the breech would qualify.

I currently am using a flat rubber washer but I would like to try a piece of leather. Ive seen leather used in many ways to absorb unwanted sounds to great success.

Yep, Shadoh makes a good point. I would think with the spring uncoiling the hammer WOULD tend to rotate and maybe smack the hammer sear. could make a solid hammer with no rings and button the inside of the tube?

Dan

So would this be the notorious “hammer slap mod” I have read about but never seen? Have any handy “how to” or “look what I did” on that mod? This version is probably superior, but I own no lathe:)

Dan

Hmm, the only problem I could see with that would be the chance that they could hit the hammer catch during cocking or firing? Unless you could keep the hammer from turning in the frame.

quote DanoInTx:

Ed Zachary what I was thinking of when reading this, then I got towards the bottom and you had already said it. I bet buttons would work good because there is no chance of any type of vacuum lock from a solid ring of teflon.

Now I have a question. This oring, is it on the face of the hammer to reduce the sound of the hammer knocking? Sorry if it’s a dumb question, I haven’t been at this Talon thing for long:)

Thanks,

Dan

Dano, the oring works like a bumper to quiet the hammer slap.

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