Hammer slap mod, how much power is lost?
Those of you who have tried this mod, what were your experiences with it. Effectiveness, velocity loss and how did yo do the mod. There are many ways of doing it a rubber washer to a o-ring installation per Tony’s site. This is the final noise factor i can control,pewllet impact out of my hands. Butits all down the the hammer slap. Any input be much appreciated. Thanx BD
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Keep us posted on this Mike. Am always looking for new ideas, in the quite dept.
Still have to try a depinger of some sort, maybe this weekend. Be nice if someone tried the washer thing and said if it worked or not. I remember a thread about it once.
Martin,
Wasn’t a motor cycle it was cars and I remember doing an aircraft tank made of aluminum. haha The later I did with just regular epoxy and it held up well.
Dono, but was thinking about an ID coating. What I’m wondering about is the pulse/pressure wave created in the tank. There is a natural resonant range for tank and I’m guessing for the compressed air column. That said what you suggest may well work.
http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/waves/opecol.html
You might like to try a thin rubber or something similar on the breach block face for the slap. I found some thin material and will rough up the face of the breach block for adhesive and see if I can bond it. All the others I’ve messed with were striker related. My thought is the breach block may be easier to work with.
That might work. ping is acoustical shock waves likely a cousin to water hammer. So to break it up may take a disc or screen to alter chamber size. I guess not many here remember the discussions of ‘ping’ a couple years ago. The TOG members did not even know what it was back then.
Some thought that the hammer slap was the source of ping.
Good to see how the knowledge base catchs up.
Walter…
💡 Any of you older guys ever fix a rusty motorcycle/auto gas tank leak with that liquid epoxy shit? Just slosh it around in the tank and let dry—tank fixed! Why not use that liquid rubber u coat tool handles with on the inside of your air tank? The stuff I have can be thinned with naptha. It’s sure to change the ringing/harmonics. I would do it but I can’t hear that well anyway. I will be happy to tame the hammer slap on this bitch. 
Thread is going round and round haha 😆 😆
Have one of those hammer/striker mods with an O ring. Works… Just use the PW to compensate for a small loss of smack due to rubber O ring. I think I would do it different next experiment and use the breach block. Anyway don’t use it at all now of late but may do some more work when the weather improves. Sub zero is not my favorite time to shoot. haha
Regarding tank what maybe needed is a pulsation dampener. These can be somewhat complex depending upon design but an easy way to try a frequency modification is to get some tough open cell foam. Compress it and shove it in the tank. One would want it to expand to the tank sides so it sort of stayed put or at least out of the way of the valve area. That would modify the frequency of the pulse. One could add a perforated cylinder/tube which would extend from the hex nut into the tank and all the way to the other end of the tank if you want to help hold it in place. One could combine the very open cell mesh/foam on the tube OD as well.
Some interesting physics class experiments re acoustics in bottles.
Just some thoughts.
Bodhisdad, if your’e still interested, try this one.
There is a weird sound anomoly from the camera, but the ping is noticable. Im glad I know what that noise is now.
[video src="http://s275.photobucket.com/albums/jj312/Leadbest/?action=view¤t=Condor01-1.flv" /]
Wow, sounds like a bell… Guess I need to work on my shroud since I can’t hear the ‘ping’ yet…
I think it will be tough to get the hammer slap to go away since the contact is what triggers the burst of air and any attempt to diminish that will take away from the crisp tap the hammer needs to trigger the top-hat…
Was it Mike experimenting with leather which was working but being abused and someone had made a new hammer with plastic on the end but if it contacts another solid object it will still slap… Maybe a hard rubber gasket to cut a few decibels and just reduce it until the shots get erratic and then take a mil or two off the rubber…
Maybe decreasing the contact area with patches or dots of plastic, but these would wear or be beat down faster due to the increased force from the decreased surface area…
Read this page it talks about depingers and demonstrates it.
WOK, when you do that we’re taking the tank pressure/valve opening out of the picture/ sound as well.
I follow what your saying though. There is a combination of noise/s going on in that area during the fireing cycle. Are you suggesting that the ping is responable for most the noise?? I have a valve i’m porting now and will drop in a deresonator. Any thoughts on material? Such as line and actual depinger? I was thinking some fireline and a rubber coated washer or two.
Both vids have a ping sound I never could identify, could be tank ping.
Yep that is the tank ping.
If you want to hear hammer slap alone take out the tank and cock and shoot the gun. You can hear the difference from slap and ping
Riff, plays for just a second for me.
The ping in my rig is under the hammer slap, i can detect it, but the hammer slap is much more pronounced. Or so says my ear? Might have to drop a little something in the tank to break the resonance issue and hear for myself.
THX is MIA, i remember him.
Try either one of these. Plays for most poeple, depends on your system.
Both vids have a ping sound I never could identify, could be tank ping.
When you shoot the gun air resesvoir will cause a ping or bell like sound when shot. It is caused from a shock wave going from one end of the reservoir to the other. In some guns they put a plastic spacer with a small hole in the center which slows down this shock wave and decreases the ping.
I wish to know more of this tank ‘ping.’ I’ve never heard it. I’m deaf as a post and yet I’m aware of the noise that our guns produce. Please expound. AKULA
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How about a rubber “cup” with a hole in the center. It could be stretched and/or glued over the top hat to keep it in place. Might need to be trimmed on the back side so it wouldn’t interfere with the top hat adjustment.