Got my 9mm kit yesterday! Pics sunday hopefully.
Got my 9mm kit yesterday. I’m extremely busy with stuff right now, so no pics yet. I’ll try to get it installed on Sunday, and give it a review. Thanks blodnob.
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when ordering pellets from whyte….tell him you dont want any lube on them…the lube just gunks up your barrel and reduces accuracy and power…instead lightly coat them with oil if you prefer….or do nothing…
still remember Butchers barrel from the hoghunt….it looked like a smooth bore…all the rifling was full of grease lol…who would have thought !
spring is a stiff as hell…u have to use both thumbs to cock it !
hammer i use a piece of thick walled brass tubing, that has been polished on the riding surface…and on the middle i have removed .010″ and polished it too…reason to remove the middle bit was to reduce the riding surface. hammer is about 120-150 gram…i dont remember….but for my .308 valve….i used 110 gram would think that would be just fine for 9mm too.
Cygnus, what kind of spring and hammer are you using to knock open this type of valve?
thse valve are a little different….we got the springs on the outside…under the tophat pusing on tophat and valvebody…with Blodnops removeable tophat you can change out springs without emtying the bottle…which is really nice….also….it removes a bottle neck from the valve…since the no longer has to flow into the body through a little hole…then through spring…then around valveseat…and then into portholes….every time the air has to change direction it looses speed and power
opening the valve in the bottle as these valves do means the air can flow from the sides…the practically eliminates all the above mentioned steps…the air now just have to flow into the body..since it doesnt have to go around valveseat really…and then into the portholes…and it straight to the pellet from there….with maximum power 😈
hey blodnop that looks pretty darn good….
the oring around the tophat slams the valve shut, so i dropped that, and i dropped using the tophat as a guide in the valvebody as that does allmost the same thing as the oring….
instead i make the stem thickly walled where it rides in the valvebody…this is ok as it will no make the valve harder to slam open, that is up to the valve seat
i use an oring in the valvebody where the stem moves…i put it as far up the stem as possible, so the tight space between valvebody and stem has cut some of the pressure as not load the oring too much which will pinch and make the stem stick a little bit(it wont make it dump or anything just not consistent)
the valveseat you see on my video is long…theres a reason…..by accident i found that a long delrin piece actually increased the power, my guess is that it reduces turbulent air thats directly behind the stem, that tries to make it way around the head and into the valve….with the long piece theres no air trying to get around but rather is flowing along side the delring into the valve….at least so i think.
lastly….big valve dont really to well with the cone shaped delrin…it tends to stick in the valvebody, using up valuable hammer power to wedge it out of there….instead using a “cup shape” this wont wedge it self and seals just fine
i suck at drawing it should have been symmetric…..but this should give you an idea…the edge where it seals has to be reasonably sharp…..pressure will crush it ever to slightly creating a perfect seal….i actually found this way to seal better/easier then the cone shape….and even though its slightly bigger….its so much easier to knock open, that it still produces alot more power
my stem is .308 ID dont remember OD….the seat however is much smaller …OD of my stem is .450…the neat thing about this design is that it alows you to have a huge strong stem, that still has a small seat, but because the air flows on the outside of the stem…and then gets forced inside…it makes a shitload of power all of a sudden…really cool
i just notice you ports…i would change those a bit….to make the air funnel into the stem better…yours have an angle that leads some air to the outside of the stem….you want to drill the portholes like the air is going to flow
like this
if that makes any sense ?
looking forward to seeing these results, 😈
.Sorry. Didn’t include springs in the pictures. But yes, they do.
do they need valve springs?i cant see no springs being a problem with firing,but what about filling,but i reckon the valve will come back to place after the air is released out of the fill adapter as will have a lot of pressure behind it?but hey they look nice blodnob,they look like a surgical instrument left here by aliens,lol,looks like you have put a lot of work into them,i like the little stainless insert in the bottom of the non hex one,very nice craftmanship,
Try to slug the bore, or get someone to slug the bore, with the softest lead, and get a good measurement, then ask Mark Whyte what his closest sizer is.
Or even better, find out who manufactured the barrel and ask them the diameter, chambered for rifle or pistol rounds, twist rate, etc.
A couple thousandths over shouldn’t hurt much with the lead Mark uses for the airgun pellets. Might need to clean the barrel a bit more often.
I just measured my bore at .350. Those might be a tad bit large. Perhaps I messed up the measurements.
if you have a reloading press, Lee Precision makes bullet sizing dies in .355, .356, .357, .358. Each is only about 18 bucks. a small matter to make a couple thou. adjustment to fit your bore perfectly if the bullets are only avail .358. Maybe even get three, your bore dia, +1 & -1 and see which way they shoot best.
That valve looks awesome!
And butcher, I’d love to buy some of those .358 snakebites. If they are as soft as you say, I’m sure that I could squeeze them into a .356. Wouldn’t you think? How do I contact him? The email at the bottom of the page? Does he take paypal?
EDIT: I found his contact info. Thanks man, I’ll get in touch with him.
My apologies. I know what media blasting is. I misread one of your sentences above. I saw the pic of the brass valve housing and then the dark one below and I ASSumed it was the same valve. I then had a brain fart and read “Steel Blasted, but not blued” instead of “Steel, blasted, but not blued”.
I feel bad now that you spent the time to add more pics just for my stupid question. Sorry man.
My wife baught me a grit blast cabinet for my 40th birthday. i like the effect of anodising on a sand blasted surface. But i blued this one as its steel and didn’t get a really satisfactory result.
Al have to look at diferant chemical finishes.
My appologies to Dan in advance.
Hope you like anyway.
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still remember Butchers barrel from the hoghunt….it looked like a smooth bore…all the rifling was full of grease lol…who would have thought !
Yea that really blew chunks.
On the first day I recall Leroy showing up and I proudly showed him my first target I used to sight in; a single shot PERFECTLY centered. Then the more I shot it the more the accuracy went to crap. I was running around with my head cut off trying to figure out the problem; using up more air than everyone else put together (thanks again for the generosity, CygnusX)
That problem cost me a boar that easily weighed over 200lbs (probably closer to 300lbs) due to the shot going way over his head. He was only about 15 yards away!
Couldn’t figure out what was wrong until Leroy took a peek down the barrel and busted up laughing in amazement as he just couldn’t beleive what he saw, which was the most clogged barrel he had ever seen.
Now when Mark gets an order for airguns he automatically leaves the lube off and uses the softest lead. That hog in May is dead meat now.