Q:

Full stock pictures and progress

Thought I might start a new thread about the test stock I am building, because info on it is kinda buried in other threads.

After a few days discussion about this concept, I went to the Home Depot and picked up some thin plywood and wood glue. The idea was to try and build a laminated stock out of cheap material before I invest any real money into a chunk of nice wood.

I drew up a template and traced it onto the first sheet of plywood, and cut it out with a scroll saw. I then traced this piece onto the plywood and cut the rest of the plys.

I then started to glue the plys together, starting with the inner plys which just happened to be the same width as the lower rail of the Condor frame. These parts were cut so the upper edge mated to the bottom rail.

The outer plies upper edge was cut in a different shape on the top edge, so they would fit on the outside of the lower rail. I found this easier than trying to cut the slot into the finished stock, because I only own hand tools. If I had access to a mill, I might try to mill out the slot instead.

I then glued one side of the outside plys to the inner piece, and cut a few slots into the inner plys so I could glue in pillars for mounting the stock. I used some thick walled carbon tubes for the pillars, but aluminum would work fine.

These pictures show the pillars glued into the stock, but I stuck the pillars in the wood with clay and test mounted the stock first. This ensured the pillars would be lined up with the mounting holes before I glued them in.

Pillar closeup

Next I mounted the stock to the rifle, and glued the second outer plies to the stock. I filled all holes and the trigger cutout with modeling clay, and smeared a thin amount of clay into the seams so glue could not get into the gun. A good epoxy release agent would have worked better, but I found my supply had dried out and I was impatient.

I glued it this way to be sure the stock would fit tightly to the lower rail.

I waited a few days and then removed the stock. A few hours of roughing the shape out with a sander and dremel tool resulted in this.

Since this is plywood, rasp files and chisels do not seem to work very well and was really getting on my nerves. So I busted out the power tools.

Bottom view, showing mounting bolt locations.

Grip closeup, right side. Almost have the shape perfect for my hand.

Grip closeup, partial front view.

Grip the way I hold it. I have a lot of tendon damage in my right hand and cannot make a tight fist. Having the middle finger raised and open like this makes shooting comfortable. As you can see, the bottom finger groove is not used but the grip has been shaped to allow it.

Two friends of mine have tried this, and really liked the way it felt.

This is as far as I have gotten. I still have some shaping to go, sanding, staining and oiling to finish up.

Test shooting has been very positive. The only real mistake in my design was leaving the tank unsupported. I overlooked the fact the your cheek presses against the tank, and this will allow the tophat to move laterally ever so slightly. I found POI did change very slightly by varying cheek pressure on the tank.

If you look close at the first profile picture, you will see a small modification I made, a small curved saddle to cradle the end of the bottle near the buttpad. This keeps the bottle in the same position and POI does not change at all when I shoot.

Overall I am very happy with the way this has turned out. I will probably put some effort into smoothing this stock out and actually use it until I can afford some nice wood. It probably would look nicer if I skeletonized the buttstock portion, but for now…

Will get more pictures when I stain and oil it.

Hope this inspires some of you, this really wasnt as hard to do as I thought it was going to be.

Mods/Machinists

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Looks great. I dont have much of an eye for visualizing what something rough would look like finished and as such was skeptical after looking at the first pics, but I must say it turned out very nice.

Well done!

Thanks everybody for the great feedback. Me and wood do not get along very well, so if I can do it I am sure just about anybody can.

I really hope this inspires some of you with the confidence to try it.

I did not mention before that the buttpad is mounted to the wood and rotates 90° to allow removing the bottle. I positioned it so I could reattach the screw on the bottle, which keeps the bottle tight to the stock.

If I ever make another out of a nice piece of wood, I will cut the slot in the top before any other cuts. This slot is the most important design element. Any twist on the stock moves the entire gun, not just twist the frame like before. Since I shoot from a bipod, the mount had to be from the stock also for the same reason.

I cant wait to see some new designs. Hope some of you give it a try.

One of the best stock designs Ive seen on our guns so far. It may be rough but you nailed it on form and function as well as aesthetics. If your gun had a fill nozzle on it it would be perfect. It should get rid of any flex in the gun as the only contact you have with the gun is through your cheek and it looks like the tank is supported in the rear? I would like to see a slightly different forearm but other than that I really like it.

Great job!

If its hard to sand maybe try steel wool, start with some 00 then 000 and finish with 0000. Plywood somethings contains pine plies which is harder to stain and its resin will stick through in time. Look for a soft wood stain that resist resin.

Again good job!

well done riffraff mate it looks cool as 😛

Dude, your stock is truly OUTSTANDING! This seems simple enough that even I could do it. Very, very nice.

Paul

Have the stock finished today. Its still a bit rough, sanding plywood to a smooth surface is proving more than Im capable of. Even so, the stock feels great on the gun. Balance is nice and the feel is super.

The color proved to be a challenge too, one laminate layer of the plywood didnt want to take a stain, but the overall darkness I wanted is there. The shine will wear off when I buff the oil down, and then it will be nice and stealthy.

Have a look.

quote j3magnum:

Hey riff,,,I’ve made some adjustments to target grips and stocks in the past with bondo…you can smooth a coat over top. After it sets for a few minutes you can use a body rasp or some sort of drawn knife and refine the shape a little more easily…let it harden and hit with an orbital …then prime and paint…

Yea I thought of bondo, but I cant stand the smell of it. My wife uses it on her statuary molds and it gives me a weeklong headache.

So I tried a wood filler made by DAP. It is drying as I type this. Not as easy to work with as Bondo, but it didnt smell. 🙂

I had a few spots where I wanted a more rounded shape and didnt want to remove any more of the stock. If it doesnt work, I havent really lost anything, the stock feels ok as is.

Im thinking of boring out some area in the buttstock, just to lighten the gun a bit. The stock didnt add as much weight as I feared, but it is noticably heavier wearing a wooden leg.

quote Walkonking:

Why don’t one of you maniacs try your hand at laying fiberglass cloth over a foam stock? Just like a surf board. Might be nice

I almost did. My wife has quite a bit of fiberglass blanket and the epoxy to go with it. I didnt have a foam core though, but I do now. My boss just happened to throw away a 4″x6″x72″ block of it Friday, and I was Johnny-on-the-spot grabbing it up.

Problem is I have worked with this stuff with my wifes statuary, and believe me it isnt something I enjoy. The fun factor is “0”, which makes the quality of my work less than “give a shit”.

quote daved:

Hey, Riff, if you want a matte black finish but don’t want to go the bedliner route, try waterproof India ink. Sand smooth, lay on the ink, let dry, then buff with steel wool. Might take several coats. On hard maple, this comes out looking like polished black iron, very cool. One thing to keep in mind, despite being “waterproof”, it really isn’t, you’ll need to top coat, I use oil based poly. DON’T use water base, it will pull the ink. Keep us posted.

I have a black stain that gives a fairly dark effect. Used on my previous handles from a TC Contender, the red from the wood still showed through.
On this stuff though, Im hoping it will be blacker. Will shape and sand more today, might give it a try afterwards.

Did some shooting with it today, and was able to hit a 5″ diameter plastic lid 10 out of 10 at 100 yards. I was standing at the edge of my dog fence, and leaning over the wire. Hold was wobbly at best, but the 2nd mil dot stayed on the circle fairly easily. To say I was surprised at the result is a tremendous understatement.

My signature photo is my house from satellite. I shot from the northeast corner of my house, to the edge of the road to the east. Lasered it is 101 yards to the tree I stapled the lid to.

quote WalkonKing:

Why don’t one of you maniacs try your hand at laying fiberglass cloth over a foam stock? Just like a surf board. Might be nice

Problem is, you have to use urethane foam, and that stuff is pretty spendy, or at least it was, the last time I checked. Of course, now that I think about it, that was something like 20 years ago, maybe things have changed 🙂 ?

Hey, Riff, if you want a matte black finish but don’t want to go the bedliner route, try waterproof India ink. Sand smooth, lay on the ink, let dry, then buff with steel wool. Might take several coats. On hard maple, this comes out looking like polished black iron, very cool. One thing to keep in mind, despite being “waterproof”, it really isn’t, you’ll need to top coat, I use oil based poly. DON’T use water base, it will pull the ink. Keep us posted.

Dave

Why don’t one of you maniacs try your hand at laying fiberglass cloth over a foam stock? Just like a surf board. Might be nice

Hey riff,,,I’ve made some adjustments to target grips and stocks in the past with bondo…you can smooth a coat over top. After it sets for a few minutes you can use a body rasp or some sort of drawn knife and refine the shape a little more easily…let it harden and hit with an orbital …then prime and paint…

Great suggestions for the wood. This stuff was cheap which was the goal. Although the look of a nice laminated stock is hard to complain about, the finish I want is a matte black or at least something will less shine. Im not really sure if a bedliner finish would work for me, I prefer the smoothness of the wood surface. However that would eliminate some of the sanding… hmm.

Fit and feel is important, but I think what I like the most though, is I have to try very hard to flex the gun while shooting. Stopping flex was goal #1 and I think I succeeded.

I would agree on the birch plywood, good looking and the plys are half as thick as standard plywood. Double the plys is about what it comes down too. Very even grained, would make for a nice finish.

That multi-ply is super hard, makes regular plywood feel like pine…

Apple ply is another name for it, expensive but really sweet when it is stained and clear coated!!! 😉

Nice design and execution, RR! Just a suggestion for future consideration. When working with plywood, one of the biggest hassles is the voids that can and do show up in the plys, and the football patches. One way to avoid that is to use cabinet grade plywood. I like the Baltic or Finnish birch, but there are domestic choices available. The 2 I mentioned are a little odd, the sheets are 5’x5′, instead of the 4’x8′ that we’re more used to, and it’s relatively expensive. But it finishes beautifully, and NO VOIDS! Hmmm, now you’ve got ME thinking about carving a stock or two, maybe I need to bull pup my B50…. Later!

Dave

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