Q:

Full length picatinny .257

Worked on this build off and on for several months. Finally got the parts anodized,together and up and shooting.
Doug’s .257 valve,TJ 27”.257 barrel,4 baffles back vented into the tube,modified FRS stock,Maddog foregrip and 32” picatinny rail.

Mods/Machinists

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quote Dyotat100:

I originally did it on my first .308. I cut the slot and a notch to lock the breech forward. Only problem was I forgot to add the end mill size the notch was in the wrong spot. So I came up with the idea of putting a cap on the frame. Then later I made the other piece so it covered the the original slot.

On my frames it’s cosmetic because the trigger guard and the new scope rail make it so strong. The scope rail and the trigger guard are .850″ wide and fit the frame perfect. Takes awhile to get it just right. Have to check and sometimes go back and take a couple thousands off with the ball mill so it sits down on the frame perfect.

Thanks, you’ve given me lots to think about.
I don’t want to derail the thread any further so if its ok with you I’ll send you a PM
Thanks again

I originally did it on my first .308. I cut the slot and a notch to lock the breech forward. Only problem was I forgot to add the end mill size the notch was in the wrong spot. So I came up with the idea of putting a cap on the frame. Then later I made the other piece so it covered the the original slot.

On my frames it’s cosmetic because the trigger guard and the new scope rail make it so strong. The scope rail and the trigger guard are .850″ wide and fit the frame perfect. Takes awhile to get it just right. Have to check and sometimes go back and take a couple thousands off with the ball mill so it sits down on the frame perfect.

quote Dyotat100:

You need 1.50″ OD × 1.25″ ID tubing. Then I put it in lathe and just take enough off the OD to make it round. Then cut off the piece. Then I chuck it up centered in the jaws and bore the ID to 1.260″ that is what most frames measure. Then I put a taper on one end.

Now comes the fun part. You have to cut the tubing up and fit one piece on one side and a shorter piece on the cocking side.

It is a time consuming task.

Then you will need a tilting vice to drill and tap in the mill

Thanks for the explanation, I’m in awe. Unfortunately that’s way beyond my skill level. Is there any one making these parts commercially?
Are you doing this as an alternative to filling the original slot or as well as? Am I right in thinking that filling the slot would require welding a piece back into the frame?

You need 1.50″ OD × 1.25″ ID tubing. Then I put it in lathe and just take enough off the OD to make it round. Then cut off the piece. Then I chuck it up centered in the jaws and bore the ID to 1.260″ that is what most frames measure. Then I put a taper on one end.

Now comes the fun part. You have to cut the tubing up and fit one piece on one side and a shorter piece on the cocking side.

It is a time consuming task.

Then you will need a tilting vice to drill and tap in the mill

quote Dyotat100:

You mean like this?

Yes sir, exactly so. I’m trying to pluck up the courage to do that and lower the rail on my CSS.

You mean like this?

Its fantastic.
How did you go about making the reinforcing covers used on the frame for the side cocking mod?

Very very nice love the look makes my old stealth look like a toy!!
Moding my rex carbine at the moment !!!!
All the best Martin

quote wll2506:

I love that stock … very nice, was it difficult to mod the stock ?

wll2506

Not to bad. Trigger guard had to drop back a bit for clearance on the butt plate end and the back end was hand fit and ground for the proper angles.

I love that stock … very nice, was it difficult to mod the stock ?

wll2506

Good Lord!
That is an amazing build. Absolutely stunning what you have done. A true work of art.

Wow, really like this design. Great work of yours, sir!!!

That’s a really nice build!!! :7:

That would be great, thanks!

I have a spring. I forgot century has a minimum order. Let me know if you want me to send you one.

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