Foregrip
Hello,
Has anyone made this kind of foregrip?
I find stock foregrip to be too far for my preference. I can’t support elbow with my body when aiming. If the foregrip is little closer and maybe little bigger it should be better. I made quick sketch of the idea as seen in pic.
Could be easily made from plastic (POM). About 40mm diameter and 150-200mm long. Should provide much better support for people with shorter arms like myself. Easy to attach using same screw than stock grip. No modification to gun itself.
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Viewing 11 replies - 1 through 11 (of 11 total)
Do you do your own anodizing? I’m gonna play with some “cold” anodizing. Please—tell us more on finishing. 8)
Here’s the photo. It’s 140mm long and 38mm diamater exactly.
Also I had to make new frame-extender to match the foregrip’s groove-design 😀
This is only about half the weight of the old one. 33.5mm OD, 30mm ID, Overall length 215mm. Needs some sandblasting and anodization next. The real reason for new ldc was actually a really nice Beretta’s takedown shotgun bag I found. Just that it was 5cm shorter than gun with LDC and bottle. Thus shorter silencer 😆
I just love this gun. So many things to customize. Maybe now I can finally start working on buttstock… and grip… and trigger… and bushings… and hammer… and breech slide… oh the list is just endless.
Laser like in S-16s 🙂
Sounds like a good idea.
btw, Logun S16 was my primary choice until I hold one in my hands. WAAaay too big and heavy. Almost double the weight of Talon.
You can attach the grip that comes with the gun to the trigger plate hole you know? That brings it in my closer to the trigger and might give you what you want, but without the snazzy of that custom grip though.
I stayed overtime today and turned it. 150 mm long, 40mm diameter. From POM (black plastic). Took maybe 15-30 minutes. Well, there is actually no turning – just the grooves for look-to-match silencer.
Then milling the slot. Quick to made. Costs nothing. Fits perfectly to gun. I am happy 🙂
btw, in the pic it’s 200mm long with 50mm diameter so final look is better. More slimline.
I try to find the perfect position and only then make the hole for fixing. It is so tight fit that it stays on even without the hole. I just milled 12mm wide slot. No dovetail which would be even better but overkill imho.
It helps ALOT to have better hold of a gun – at least for me. I moved it almost in touch with trigger guard and the grip and balance is just perfect now. I keep my elbow in touch with my body to support the aiming and it is 10x easier and more steady.
Gonna post some pics later…
And thanks for the tips. Didn’t know that you can also move frontgrip closer.
Drill out the front and put a laser in there or a flash lite. That would be great
What YN said. To make sure you like how it feels you can easily move your guard back. Just dont lose the extra screw while your trying it out.
not to sure about it mate it looks realy big .but as i said it could help .i made my set from cocobolo and made the front grip a bit bigger to suit me as the standard one isn,t to good
You could turn that on a lathe real easy from solid delrin and then mill or maybe even route the channel…… knock em out in no time.
You can attach the grip that comes with the gun to the trigger plate hole you know? That brings it in my closer to the trigger and might give you what you want, but without the snazzy look of that custom grip though.
That reminds me of the old school pump paintball gun. Worr games made a forend similar to that
Oooh! That looks really, really nice and goes very well with the design of the Shroud too. I like it. I don’t think that it would be too expensive to make either. Anyone up for the challenge?
Viewing 11 replies - 1 through 11 (of 11 total)
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Do you do your own anodizing? I’m gonna play with some “cold” anodizing. Please—tell us more on finishing. 8)
My dayjob involves designing similar looking aluminium parts and we use commercial anodization service from other supplier. Fortunately I can slip the LDC in same the box without anyone wondering what the heck is that. 😆
I like to sandblast the surface before anodization. We also have small sandblasting cabin in our company. You put the parts inside and push your hands into the heavy gloves integrated to the wall. Grapb small sandblasting nozzle and brush the parts while looking through cabin window. Sand is actually very fine metal particles or small glass grain. It basicly just breaks / modifies the surface without removing material. The surface will then have nice matte finish and will look “factory made” after anodization.
I read about home anodization and it seemed pretty simple. That would be nice to try out sometime. Especially with different colors. Our suplier only has standard black, red, blue and natural silver colors.