November 13, 2016 at 7:36 pm #21988
So I recently purchased it and it seems it won’t fit. I removed the shroud cap and noticed it’s too long to fit as you can see here, this is blocking it from fitting all the way.
What should I do? There’s no real instructions here.
Edit: tony offered to fix.November 14, 2016 at 1:28 am #261294
What was the fix. I have the same problem.
Jim 07676November 25, 2016 at 1:50 am #262037
There’s only a few things you can do…
shorten the LDC
move the vented bushing
Shortening the LDC is the easiest
Moving the vented bushing, not so much since it’s also the front barrel mount. So more than likely, DarkRattle had the LDC shortened. I too have this problem- Ordered a Gen 6 LDC and it won’t fit. I’m having mine shortened to fit.November 29, 2016 at 1:21 am #262228
I purchased a Talon P without a barrel. I had an 18 inch .177 barrel and decided to make a back yard shooter. The first problem I had was that even without the additional hammer weight it dumped the tank. I Needed to restrict the tophat opening and did not yet have the TT valve I had ordered. I removed the valve, closed the bottom with tape and filled it with JB Weld. I cleaned it first with acetone to remove any oil. I gave it a day in a warm spot to cure and then drilled a 1/16 inch hole down the center of the cured JB Weld to provide my new restriction. It worked perficaly and I was shooting JSB monster diabolos at a low of about 400FPS and a high of about 800 FPS, Ideal for a backyard shooter.
It was loud so I purchased the TT 14 inch shroud, as that one would fit over the 5.5 inches of barrel sticking out of the frame. As we now know the shroud will not go in the frame all the way without some modifications. I did not want to cut the shroud as I might want to use it on another gun so I decided to move the barrel support back by about 11MM. At this point the end of the shroud now butts up against the barrel support. I then put a bead of clear silicone RTV around the edge of the shroud and glued it to the barrel support. I then used the same size allen grub screws that hold the spin lock tank and put them in the original holes that held the barrel support. The barrel support is now solid against the end of the shroud. The shroud is held now by the original screw and by the two additional grub screws.
I saw no change in performance and it is a very quiet shooter. The RTV will come loose with a hefty twist if I need to make any changes and and all parts are stock. I have since added the TT slap modification and purchased on eBay the solid brass breech.
PS: The modified valve is working so well that I never bothered to install the TT valve.
Regards to all, Jim07676November 29, 2016 at 7:07 pm #262269
The old pictures of the shrouds had a silver part that was a lot shorter that went into the frame. Now it’s longer so it doesn’t sit flush unless you cut it. I have a condor SS and the description states I can use it along with the baffles which are a total of three in frame. I have to remove one of the the baffles in order for the newer shroud to fit all the way in flush. If I want to use third baffle I would need to cut shroud but I have no idea if Tony had a reason behind changing the design,obviously with another baffle it would be a little quieter is the assumption but like I said Tony has a reason behind all this I’m sure of.November 29, 2016 at 7:41 pm #262272
Your shroud is on its way back to you with a TalonP connector on it.
TonySeptember 8, 2017 at 11:03 pm #271171
BTW I purchased a Gen 6 moderator for my TalonP. I noticed the standard end cap grub screw seems to not hold the moderator snugly in place
Do you know what size the end cap grub screw is? I might look for a dog point grub screw.December 16, 2018 at 12:40 am #276712
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