cricket regulator adjusting using pin method question

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    I have a question

    I want to set my regulator using the pin method.

    in this video Ernest tells he has the disc set for high power ,looks like using only 16 discs inside (()) (()) (()) (())

    I opened my regulator to check o-rings because I think it is leaking and discovered I have 17 disc ((()) (()) (()) (())

    Back to using the pin method and my question, does the pin method work with 16 discs inside or 17 discs ?

    My thought is ,one disc of difference can make this method inaccurate.
    Or Is my thinking method wrong..

    ps. Ernest, thank you for all your ussefull information




    I think you have 17 discs because of a mistake of someone from the factory.


    could this be? they have put in one disc to many.
    Anyone who else who can confirm this with certainty before I put it back togheter , because getting the reg open was not easy .
    already thanks for help


    Most newer .25 cals will have 17 disks installed.
    17 disk will have a 52.88mm +- .18mm AOL for 130B.

    You don’t need the 17th disk unless your going to tune it to 150+ bar in .25 cal to achieve 72+ fpe.
    But you may need a lighter hammer spring if you remove it.

    It depends on what you are trying to achieve, if you’re trying to lower or increase your present velocity ?
    If it’s very high 150 bars and you what to lower it I’d remove it.

    ~ GKU


    Ah ok, that might explain why I always thought my reg was set to high no matter how i turned it. Mine is a .22 standard ,does it already got the light spring from factory?
    I want to get the best speed and shot consistency for jsb heavies .

    Thank you


    My Cricket came with this hammer spring.

    Factory hammer spring specs:
    56.15mm long = 2.21″
    9.3mm dia = 3/8″
    1.3mm thick wire = 0.051″
    17 turns

    My Cricket 22 standard is set to send JSB 18g @ 880 fps with the Reg is set to 120 bar.
    The valve spring retainer is set to 1/2 turn CW after contact.

    Filled to 260 bar I can get 7 mags = 98 shot with a 1.43bar/shot efficiency.
    But I usually fill to only 220 bar and get 4 mags.

    ~ GKU


    Thats great info Gku, my hammer spring looks about the same 55 mm and the other numbers are the same to. Removed the disc bud air comes gushing out the hole were the reg is I am not shure if it us one of the o rings is failing or because of the disc,probably an oring,oh boy


    That not a problem.

    If you don’t have a reg tester it just make finding which of the 4 O-rings on the reg is leaking.
    The factory O-ring are of poor quality, so when I go into the reg I change them all anyway.

    Some tips maybe.
    Becareful not to dent or damage the rotor seal end edges.
    When replacing the small O-ring 2mmx4mm lube very light.
    Clean out retainer tread with alcohol to prevent the O-ring retainer from backing out over time.
    When reinstalling try not to get any lube on the treads.
    Tighten until it touches the O-ring first.
    Then carefully try inserting the rotor with it seal end lube.
    If it goes in easy, remove the rotor and tighten the retainer a bit more and try again.
    You don’t what it to tight or to loose.

    Sometime the above method will not work on some.
    So I used a small drill bit shank end to tighten the O-ring retainer with the rotor already installed.
    Again, just be extra careful not to damage the rotor edge end.

    Before installing the reg back into the AT make sure there isn’t ant sharp edges on the treads going in.
    If so use 600g wet sandpaper lightly to remove any sharp burrs.

    There is a breather hole on the reg, place it facing up when installing it back into the AT.
    This insures and help keep the lube from coming all out over time.

    Add pressure to check for any leaks before assembling the entire action.
    Take your time, it’s not hard to do.

    ~ ATB ~ GKU


    just a thought also i used ernsts pin method of adjusting and it set my reg to above 150. i am not saying that it does not work but i had to use calipers to adjust my reg after trying the pin method because my reg was about 2 1/3 of a turn away from being at the correct position which is around 115-120. to save you time i would go get a harbor frieght caliper. and adjust that way.

    heres the link to the troubles i went through and the fixes.

    i went back on deployment a couple of days after doing this so i have not been able to do more adjustments. i will be home in about a week.


    That are some great tips, I am also going to find some spare o rings somewhere .
    Made a dumb mistake,when I said air was gushing out, I had forgotten to put in the 30 mm alu spacer, stupid me… . When openend again ,replaced the rotor o ring anyway from the factory spare set . The spare o ring appeared to be softer then the one inside.

    Set the reg using the pin method and did a chrony, I use a wooden stick to preserve air so it was not a long string bud it gives me an idea of the numbers .
    Got around 268 m/s with only 1 to max 3 m/s spread from 160 bar down to I think 110 bar then it drops off. The reg is working again [WHITE SMILING FACE] When I got more time next days, going to adjust the reg tiny little bit higher ,to get it right or maybe just leave it.

    Still somwhere it is leaking bud almost certain it is the bleed screw, I used it so many times the screw got worn out and can’t realy tighten it enough with the imbus.

    @ chad
    My shotstring looked exactly the same as yours ,it just went up in speed.
    Did you by any change counted the discs in your reg ,looks like you also have 17 bud you have a .25 so that is normal like gku said .My reg was before I removed the 17 th disc also set way to high using this method. When I open again I will messure, haven’t got a digital . Be safe


    Hi Dimi3,

    That’s good news Sir.
    If you can find removable tread lock it will fix the leaky bleed out. It just needs to dry over night.

    If you can find this nylon tip screw has been used as a replacement for the little ball bearing and hex screw.

    If you can find a round piece of nylon to replace the ball bearing I’ve heard that works also.

    I have a Imppu v3 HST that comes with a degasser so I don’t need to bleed out the AT from there anymore.

    ~ GKU

    quote shooter3:

    I think you have 17 discs because of a mistake of someone from the factory.

    For example I have also 17 discs in the regulator 😳 I do not know why??? 🙄

    quote octavius:

    quote shooter3:

    I think you have 17 discs because of a mistake of someone from the factory.

    For example I have also 17 discs in the regulator 😳 I do not know why??? 🙄

    Hi Jan,

    Usually it’s used to tune the regulator to 130 bar and above.

    If you take one out you might not be able to get the same high velocity as before and the regulator might not be able to close at 130 bar and above.
    You may need to set it at 120 bar and use a stronger hammer spring and or port out (enlarge) the transfer port to achieve the same velocity as before.

    After which when you fill above 270 bar you will start to see the other (downward) side of the peck curve.

    ~ Greg


    Hi Greg, thx I do not plan to take one or make some fuxing setting. 🙂 I investigate it only when I changed O-rings in regulator. I opened regulator from bottom and I see 😯 I have 17 discs. I thought I have only 16 discs…

    I had to set little bit more air pressure on the regulator because I had feeling my velocity drop a little so I add 1/8 CCW on regulator. Now is better (same) efficiency at 880fps than before. Some week ago It seems I get not so good efficiency as usually due to drop regulator pressure. The regulator do not like “lower” pressure with 880fps 😆


    For the 22 cal it seems that the reg setting can range from 120-140 bar and adjust hammer spring to achieve 880 fps.
    Seems some 22 cal may or many not need the extra washer to achieve 880 fps, where 130 bar is right at this cut off point.

    So, it not a factory mistake to have an extra one IMO.

    ~ Greg

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