Condor SS- Difficulty cocking

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Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 33 total)
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  • #15405
    treeburnerct
    Participant

    My gun randomly has issues cocking – it feels like metal grinding into other metal at times, but other times its perfectly smooth. My question is, is it safe to use silicone lubricant to aid the cocking mechanism in moving smoothly?

    I know you don’t want to use a petroleum based lubricant in these guns, but what about silicone spray?

    Thanks
    -TB

    #175601
    oakey631
    Participant

    I have the same issue about every 20 times I cock it. But it doesn’t feel or sound like metal on metal it is just very hard to cock. I have lubricated it with silicon grease it still happens. I have changed the hammer as well and it still happens.

    #175603
    rld1965
    Participant

    That’s strange ! Anybody call air force about this and if so what did they say ? Maybe it could be a production issue on these guns now more people have them they really won’t know of these issues unless people call about it to Air Force .

    #175605
    dyotat100
    Participant

    Sounds like the new trigger setup has its problems. There’s the guys that was stuck and now 2 people have cocking issues.

    I defiantly won’t be building any high power guns with the new frames.

    #175606
    knifemaker
    Participant

    Sil. Grease is not a lubricant. Other than for “O” Ring. All it is good for in this aplication is gumbing up the works, slowing everything down, prventing proper engagement, and catching a LOT of grit and debre. For the trigger parts, any fine oil. For the frame housing where the hammer rides, spray graphite. The carrier dries, and leaves nothing but graphite.

    KnifeMaker

    #175607
    charlie101
    Participant

    I feel difficult to cock too. I’m thinking it’s different safety system.

    #175609
    orca
    Participant

    And here I thought it was an isolated incident with mine. Right when I received the gun, I assembled it and dry fired it. A rough motion sending the breech forward to set the hammer back. Feels like the spring is really fighting you, sounds like it is straining on compression. I thought it is the expected breaking in period occurrences, it will get smoother with time. Fired off a couple rounds and it felt a little less rough. Then I totally disassembled it. Bagged all the parts into groups and have been getting aftermarket parts to replace the stock stuff. I’m waiting for some AF barrels to hit the market so I could get a Dyotat100 Hammer upgrade. Now I’m regulated to watching the surf cams for my local spots, while sketching out a couple patterns to paint the frame and parts.

    #175616
    oakey631
    Participant

    I used silicone grease because I have Tony slap hammer mod plus there parts are not all metal in that system. An O-Ring behind my top hat as well. Also I am starting to wonder if the breach is made of Metal as well.

    #175714
    charlie101
    Participant

    My condor ss gets smoother, no grid feeling now. I have tried about 200 shots. But it’s harder than my talon ss.

    #175732
    randy-68
    Participant

    one thing I can think of is the safety linkage might be hanging up when you cock it as it rides alongside the frame and the trigger parts are also along the other side of it. There are several cutouts in it and the pins and other parts rub against it.
    I completely disassembled my gun and I deburred all rough edges, of which there wasn’t much, and I rubbed moly into all metal parts. I also removed the little toggle link that resets the safety. Now I can decock my gun anytime. It cocks as smooth as silk and the safety can be flicked on and off with very little effort.
    Up to 1000 or more shots now and this gun is scary accurate and quiet. The only other things I have done is add my own hammer slap mod, put an oring behind the tophat and adjusted the tophat down . I now get 40 shots from a 2800 fill 880-905-880 and VERY quiet. It is quieter than my buddy’s .25 Cricket and just as accurate.

    #175736
    charlie101
    Participant

    Nice. So good to know. It would be nice to have some pics to show how to make this happen, smooth cocking and quiet setup.

    #175738
    walkonking
    Participant
    quote randy_68:

    one thing I can think of is the safety linkage might be hanging up when you cock it as it rides alongside the frame and the trigger parts are also along the other side of it. There are several cutouts in it and the pins and other parts rub against it.
    I completely disassembled my gun and I deburred all rough edges, of which there wasn’t much, and I rubbed moly into all metal parts. I also removed the little toggle link that resets the safety. Now I can decock my gun anytime. It cocks as smooth as silk and the safety can be flicked on and off with very little effort.
    Up to 1000 or more shots now and this gun is scary accurate and quiet. The only other things I have done is add my own hammer slap mod, put an oring behind the tophat and adjusted the tophat down . I now get 40 shots from a 2800 fill 880-905-880 and VERY quiet. It is quieter than my buddy’s .25 Cricket and just as accurate.

    Which piece did you remove in this picture to be able to uncock your gun?

    #175746
    knifemaker
    Participant
    quote oakey631:

    I used silicone grease because I have Tony slap hammer mod plus there parts are not all metal in that system. An O-Ring behind my top hat as well. Also I am starting to wonder if the breach is made of Metal as well.

    Once again, do not use sil grease for the outside of the hammer or inside of the frame wheer the hammer rides. Grease is far too gummy. Use dry graphite.

    Use Sil. Grease for the “0” Rings only.

    KnifeMaker

    #175773
    randy-68
    Participant

    Adam, the piece I removed is not in this pic. At the time I did that work it was still in the gun. Later on I figured out how it works and removed it. On these new guns you can see the little toggle link sticking up inside the gun if the breech is removed. When you cock the gun it forces the safety back and sets it. When the breech is closed you can then take the safety off to fire but you can’t open the breech and pull the trigger because the breech pushes on the toggle which pushes the safety back. The top pin in the frame where the front of the breech would be is the pin and all it holds in is this little toggle link about 3/8″ long. I’m on my phone now and can’t figure out how to add pics . Maybe tomorrow.

    #175776
    oakey631
    Participant
    quote knifemaker:

    quote oakey631:

    I used silicone grease because I have Tony slap hammer mod plus there parts are not all metal in that system. An O-Ring behind my top hat as well. Also I am starting to wonder if the breach is made of Metal as well.

    Once again, do not use sil grease for the outside of the hammer or inside of the frame wheer the hammer rides. Grease is far too gummy. Use dry graphite.

    Use Sil. Grease for the “0” Rings only.

    KnifeMaker

    Once Again?

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