Chrony numbers?
Just spent a short amount of time with my SS in the yard shooting Kodiaks over the chrony. I have a stock SS except for a 24″ .22 barrel. I have been trying to tweak the tophat for optimum power, but with an optimum (low fps deviation) string AND an optimum air conserving setup. Question is, will I ever get it ALL? I have it shooting right now, power wheel at 10 for a good 930fps with Kodiaks. I would like to keep the FPS right in that range. I fiddled and adjusted, but didn’t do any long chrony strings at that power (no shroud and it sounds like a rimfire at that power). Has anyone gotten a good smooth slightly bell shaped curve at this power? I started with a 3000psi fill, but power seemed best after 10+ shots, so maybe I’ll try 2800-2900 next. I would post the final string, but I was torquing and tweaking the whole time until I heard the next door neighbor open the back door and let that sqeaky crappy little dog out in the yard to bark at me(a signal that the gun noise is bothering them….would love to send a Kodiak over/through the fence into that stupid mutts head). So anyone have a good chrony string to share?
One interesting note was that I could dial the power wheel to zero at this top hat setting and I would push 220-230fps with Kodiaks and low 300’s with Benjamin Diablos…kinda fun watching pellets in the scope:)
Really need to find someone to make a screw-on “adapter” for the end of my new barrel so I can get some good backyard shooting done.
Dan
All Replies
Viewing 9 replies - 1 through 9 (of 9 total)
A heavier hammer will straighten out the curve. With my TSS 12″ and 50 gram hammer i never saw much of a curve with the stock talon valve still full power on shot 3 or 4 then down from there. I figure a longer barrel might accomplish this easier as it takes more air to push the pellet through the barrel. Try for a lighter hammer and see if some of the curve improves. When i put the 75g hammer inmy stock TSS i saw a slight improvement in velocity but no curve. The longer barrel should be an asset in getting more of a curve. I’d start playing with the tophat, thats your key to consistency.
DanoInTX, the stock Talon valve is a lot easier to live with(no valve lock at high pressure) and without doing anything to it, you can get vel. in the 900s easy shooting 21g Kodiaks with the 24″ barrel at 3000psi. The curve I got with the (85 gram total) hammer + hammer weight was a constant downward slope exactly like you said which is not good for shooting tiny groups at over 150 yd. That’s why I was hoping you can chrony yours at 3000psi and I can compare the difference of the two hammer set up. My gut feel is with your lighter hammer, you should be able to optimize the parameters quite nicely with the right fill pressure and top hat adjustment to get that slightly rising front slope, followed by a plateau and then a gradual falling slope power curve.
So go beg, borrow or steal a chrony. Hurry 😀
PS Ok, go to this link and thanks Adam
http://talonairgun.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=450&sid=1d7c82a1b2d12951298deeb830994968
Nopers, not going for a modded valve, just want to make a stock one as good as possible. Looking for a slight upward and slight downward curve, not the downward ramp with a ton of power on shot #1 and a little “puff” on shot #10. Gobs of power don’t mean anything to me if I can’t repeat the same shot 30-40 times. I do long range plinking, like 150+ yards…a few fps on each shot would make a big difference at that distance. Consistancy is the key to shooting at that distance, and that is what I hope to find. Now if I were hunting, then maybe I would want to run a huge twist drill down the neck of my valve for a few super high power shots.
Dan
I did a Talon valve mod recently and was slinging Kodiaks at 816 for a ten shot avg. thats over 31fpe. Saw a high of 839.7 all with a 12″ barrel. Its going to a guy with a 24″ barrel and am looking forward to seeing what kind of numbers he gets. Tophat was set at .058 for the best power/consistency. Put a lighter valve spring in there so i lost the curve but gained some velocity and will get a good shot count with the tophat set at .058. I was loosing 1.8 fps per shot on avg. very little difference in the PW adjustment 0-10, was using a 75 gram hammer. Lots of patience to get them just right, lots of shots too.
I honestly have no idea what the chrony numbers were like with a 12″ barrel. Mine came with a 12″ .177 barrel that I never chronied, I switched it to an 18″ .177 and adjusted the tophat to shoot right about 980fps with kodiaks 10.5gr and fairly consistant. Then I switched to a .22 12″ that I also never chronied, and now a 24″ .22 with the results above. I still have the two short barrels, but if I can get the rimfire sound effects reduced on this 24″ .22 I will most likely sell the other 2, or at least the .177 (.22 was a gift I will most likely keep).
As for making a shroud I might, but most likely will have one made. I am really looking for one that will screw onto my new barrel (it’s threaded). I just think that would be slick:)
The neighbors have never called the cops on me, so I will let their dog live. I’m a full grown kid with 3 kids of my own, I don’t need to go slaying anyones dog and getting myself put in jail….even if it would make THAT DAMN THING STFU!
Dan
Hi DanoinTx,
I have chronied my stock Condor (24″ barrel) using a Talon tank and I can see right after I plotted the graph that the Condor hammer weight (which your Talon doesn’t have) is keeping the airflow high even at PW=0. I will send the chart to Adam to post it for your reference. I will be most interested to see your shot string starting from 3000psi at a high PW say around 10. Don’t worry about optimizing it for now but establishing a reference string and we can start from there. 😀
I havn’t tried a 24″ barrel on the SS yet so I’m interested to see what others who have tried it have to say…. 930 fps with Kodiaks sounds about perfect for power and accuracy.
What were you getting from the 12″ barrel max? min? fps…
How quite is it at the other power settings?
You should make a shroud for it…not that hard and you already have the endcap from the SS to use. Someone on here who used PVC pipe might have some easy directions might be able to help you out???
I concurr on sniping the yippy dog LOL…I HATE yippy dogs.
Jim.
Also, while I’m thinking about it. I have been considering an aftermarket hammer to try to “smooth” things out a bit also. I know the stock hammer is a rough piece of scrap metal. Just wondering what others have experienced with.
Viewing 9 replies - 1 through 9 (of 9 total)
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.
Dano, have you considered a lighter hammer? the lighter the hammer the more of a curve you will get. Or did you get this worked out. I was playing in the basement tonite and can tell you its worth the trouble to try a lighter hammer use some steel bushings. I can get these at ace hardware 1″ long up too 4″ used as a spacer 1/4″thick cut to desired weight.