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Baffle Orientation CondorSS

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Viewing 7 posts - 16 through 22 (of 22 total)
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  • #257051
    bigship
    Participant

    It is confusing. The baffle screw actually provides a simple backstop for the baffle assembly. That’s all it is. Just screw it in all the way and slip the baffles in according to the previous picture. The key screw in the assembly is the muzzle cap grub screw. Use Loctite blue! Line up the hole in the muzzle cap and tighten firmly. With Loctite there is no need to overtorque the screw. Remember its only being held by the thin aluminum frame so be careful not to overtighten.

    #260618
    barens12
    Participant
    quote Anthony266:

    Make sure the baffle stop screw is in. Then drop baffles in this order…

    Hello Tony, do you have a regulator that will work on an airforce condor with the TTTA??

    #268316
    19car69
    Participant
    quote birdman:

    It’s the same baffle set up with the Talon SS . However , I kept getting pellet clipping with the metal washer . I solved that problem by
    removing the metal washer and replacing it with a standard water hose rubber washer . No more clipping and with Tony’s 9″ LDC added
    to the barrel of my Talon SS , I have a very accurate and backyard friendly rifle . Shooting EJ’S 35.8 gr. pellets at 37 yards is a one shot
    one kill sniper perfection piece of weaponry .

    FROM : THE BIRDMAN

    I had the same issue, mostly because I put it together wrong, and by mostly I am really saying completely.

    I didn’t see your idea of the hose washer. I made a washer out of a milk carton cap. Just used a punch the size of the shroud and a center punch bigger than the hole in the cap at the end of the shroud. It worked great.

    #274283
    fomen
    Participant

    Hello everyone,

    I’m new to the TT forum. I’ve owned a Condor SS for a little over a year now, and I’ve started the (expensive) process of performance modifications. I just did an upgrade on my Condor by adding a Constant Air pressure regulator in line between the tank and the valve assembly. I also added a 1 piece high output top hat, and a heavier brass hammer (w/slap mod (thanks Tony). But that’s another thread in and of itself.

    In order to do the upgrades, I had to disassemble the rifle and take everything out of the business end of the gun. This wasn’t my first time doing this, but I had something very interesting happen this time after reassembling the rifle. I experienced the same thing another poster on here experienced. The wavy washer that they use for a spacer got clipped by the pellet. This threw off the trajectory of the pellet making it collide with the inside of the muzzle end cap. I didn’t feel it. Nor was the sound distinguishable from normal firing. I did notice that after I fired no pellet exited the gun. I was firing into a dirt hill. It was the first shot after getting everything pieced back together, and I was simply looking to see if the CAP regulator was doing it’s job.

    Well, I’m a logical and methodical guy. I wanted to find out why this was happening. After removing the end cap, out popped the wavy washer. It was literally folded in half. I got out my caliper and measured the distance of the end cap from the lip where it seats against the end of barrel to the end of the cap that goes inside of the gun. It measured .6″ on my caliper. The I pushed the baffles back inside the gun as far as they can go (which is where they should be seated), and I measured the distance from the end of the barrel to the front of the last baffle. This distance was 1.275″. So between the last baffle, and the end cap, there is .675″ of free space. The wavy washer used as a space isn’t CLOSE the taking up enough space to compensate for this.

    So I’m curious why Air Force has left this “free space” between the last baffle and the end cap on the Condor SS? This is why the washer is getting “clipped” by some shooters. I’m a reasonably smart guy, and I know my internal component orientation is correct. So what I did was I ordered a 1″ diameter, light duty compression spring to bridge the gap. It will keep slight tension on the baffles to keep them in place, without being too much tension to negatively effect anything else.

    The people at Air Force are pretty smart. So I’m sure that space was intentionally left there. It might have something to do with the last stage of gas disbursement before the pellet exits the gun. I’d have to call them to find out. But I was just curious if you guys own a Condor SS, if you tilt the gun forwards and backward when it isn’t cocked, if you can hear something “slide” internally at the end of the barrel? If so, this is the wavy washer. But WHY? Why this “gap”? It it an oversight, or does it serve a purpose? Anyone??????

    Thanks in advance for the answers

    #274296
    fomen
    Participant

    So Tony……. I wish I would have paid attention to the one liner at the beginning of your thread…. “Make sure the baffle screw is in”. Make sure it’s in BEFORE you drop the baffles into place. I answered my own question. Operator error on my part.

    #274299
    anthony266
    Keymaster

    Yes Sir…

    #274372
    fomen
    Participant

    I know I’m chiming in late on this thread. but I wanted to add my $.02. I just happened to be doing an upgrade on my rifle over this past weekend that required me to disassemble it. One of the upgrades was a regulator between the bottle and the valve. In order to validate the effectiveness and fine tune the sweet spot for FPE and FPS I used a chrony to track shot strings. I was using JSB 25.39 gr pellets in .25 caliber.

    The regulator works wonderfully. I get 20 shot strings with a variance of 14 fps throughout the entire string. But when I was doing the chrony on my gun, this thread popped up in my head. I saw where multiple people scoffed at the sound reducing capabilities of the stock AF baffle system. So I decided to test it for myself. I wanted to check 2 things…..

    1. Did the baffles effect the FPE or FPS of the rifle?
    2. Did they actually “reduce” noise.

    In short, the answers are follows:

    1. No. The baffles had no impact on FPS or FPE. I dialed the gun in to shoot the pellets at 930 FPS through the regulator. The shot before removing the baffles was 933 FPS. The shot after removing the baffles (60 seconds later) was a dual reading. 933 FPS.

    2. YES! YES! YES! The AF Baffles SIGNIFICANTLY reduce the noise the gun produces un-suppressed. So to all of the naysayers that think the baffles are a joke, or they don’t work well, I challenge you to test them for yourselves. I realize Tony sells an after market suppression system that is superior to the stock one from AF. But lets be honest with each other. If you’re reading this, you own a Condor SS. You’re not going to remove the factory suppression system to use Tony’s. You’re not going to use the aftermarket in lieu of- you’re going to use it in addition to the factory one.

    That’s my $.02 on this subject. If you think the factory suppression system doesn’t work well, fire one round with the suppression system in. Then take off the end cap, slide out the 3 baffles and fire another round. The difference in noise is DRASTIC!

Viewing 7 posts - 16 through 22 (of 22 total)
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