Another adjustable buttplate…
Hello Guys,
I got so inspired from Buba B’s excellent adjustable Butt plate that I had to design similar for myself (sorry for copy of design Buba but it just looked so great that I couldn’t resist). Buttplate has been in my todo-list from the beginning since the standard plate just … well you all know what I mean.
I tried to make shape little simpler since I have to machine it myself with manual milling machine. Also added some adjusting for shoulder shape. This may look little small but I used dimensions from my shoulder and I am not such a big dude.
All the screws are M4 hexagon socket head cap screw so it’s easier to adjust on the field with same key. Axle screws are also used for locking the big ring over bottle cover.
I hope I can start machining today. Gonna post some pictures when it’s ready (if it turns out to be showable 🙂 )
Now would be a great time to share some tips or suggestions before I start milling in the evening.
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Wow,
That is great looking. Very nice.
I’ve just about finished the butt plate, just need to take it to pieces and anodise the alluminium parts, but I’m going to wait to do these at the same time as I’ll anodise other pieces that I’ve made for something else. But I’ll start a new thread with the pictures of the other parts as there not connected to this topic
Real Genius….Luv it!
Here’s pic with FT-style butt in place. You wouldn’t believe how much better the gun now sits to shoulder when butt is aligned as in picture. Looks weird but SO nice to hold. If I close my eyes and raise the gun for shooting position and open my eyes it’s dead on the right place.
It’s so good I don’t want to take it off and send for anodization 😀
Wow guys thanks for sharing this info. Man this is really, really cool.
Great thread, Jim.
Thats nice idea!
I would love to see a similar pic about the setup how you machined the outer diameter.
Nice, thanks for the shot of the disc. Now I am wondering if I could rig it up to the mill also….
Making the machines and jigs is half the fun….or is it half the frustration? 😆
Thanks Adam, here’s abit more information on the cutting disc. I’ve included a picture of the label with all the specifications. The main thing to remember is to lock your laith saddle down so it does’nt move left or right by accident and feed the work to the disc slowly allowing time for the disc to cut its way in. Also when I made the spindle for the disc I left it in the laith while I finished all the steps involving making it: e.g. centre mounting for disc, drilling and tapping bolt hole, just to keep everything on centre, if I use this method again I’ll re-make a new spindle, to make sure everything runs smooth, last thing you want is an egg shaped disc.
I am going to steal your ideal on making that slot. I have been looking for slotting saws but I like your idea better. Nice jig BTW
Thanks. I don’t really know how long I have spent on my laith, but I seem to spend just as long on making things to hold the parts down. But I have spent alot of time with a file and emmery cloth after its come off the laith. The treatment on the surface of the alluminium is an etch that leaves a finish similar to sand blasting, this helps to remove any surface scratches after filing and rubbing down. I bet Rabbits wishes he could use this on his nice looking wood grips. Here’s a few pictures that shows how I’ve been mounting the parts on the cross-slide. I’ll be using pinch bolts to grip on the bottle.
VERY nice. What’s that finish on the surface?
How are you going to attach /tighten it around the tank?
-Mike
Looks nicely done Baz .Its one hard way of doing it lol, but as all can see you dont need a rotary table to make one ,just abit of time /skill 😯 . Butt plate next , how long has it took so far! 😀
Here are a few pictures of progress so far. I started out with a piece of 1 1/2″ alluminium plate, mounted it in my 4 jaw chuck, used a boring bar to bore the hole to go around the bottle and then took the tool post off the cross slide of my laith and mounted the alluminium plate on the cross slide and started to take away the metal around the outside of the ring, leaving a stub to shape for the shoulder rest.
Of course not. It should all be about sharing ideas.
A tip; Don’t make that axle clamping hole too far from tank. In my latest version it’s just about as far as you can go with that design. If you go farther it will not clamp on tank and axle anymore.
Also you need to make the tolarance over tank very precise (65.5mm) to be able to clamp both. ( OMG with your finger nail. 😯 )
YN; screwing is propably possible but welding makes it rocksolid. And I was able to borrow proper welder for exhange of couple coffee packets. 😉
Jim; Unfortunately I don’t plan to sell these but once I got the CNC-machined versions of ring and make new endplate I will have 1-2 extra complete systems to spare. I might exhange it to something useful.
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such lovely 3D models and you mill them MANUALLY ???
😯