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A 257 Cast Bullet Reference Guide

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This topic contains 363 replies, has 38 voices, and was last updated by  tnt76 2 years, 7 months ago.

Viewing 15 posts - 16 through 30 (of 364 total)
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  • #174939

    mischief
    Member

    So are these setups done and available yet?

    #174954

    on-the-edge
    Member
    #174955

    caboose212
    Participant

    That would be a silenced Remington MSR, and the overall look of the body I want to make… I’m not looking to copy the design, just the overall look- makes for a stronger body than what came from AF

    #174992

    tofazfou
    Member

    Good question Caboose.

    I guess the a good starting point for me with the AIRFORCE Frames would be to stiffen it. A few folks have added contoured metal plates.

    If I could make my own frame, I would make the breech to bottle collar area MUCH more solid and connected 😉 . This would eliminate frame flex. And yes, the frames should be at least CONDOR length (looks slightly better than the Talon frame lengths). Also, the frames vary in thickness way too much from front to back. So things need to be more concentric internally. Maybe even a little thicker TUBE for the frame. Just a tad. After that, yeah, a 20 MOA built in scope rail would be bitchin. I think MOA should be built into every damned gun on this planet….lol! It should be so standard starting today….lol!

    Honestly, I love the looks of the Airforce guns. They are AR’ish. But if I had machining skills like you and Doug and some others, maaaannnnn, I would buy some tubing and make my own 1 off Airforce gun.

    My TD257 gets 10 HOLE in HOLE shots but I can do over 2.5 times more than that when I wanna goof off. For guns in this power range, bottles are the way to go. Or one big assed long tube….lol!

    Airforce, if your eaves dropping, MAKE A TRUE VERSION 2 OF THE AIRFORCE GUNS. REVAMP THE WHOLE THING AND LET CONCENTRICITY, TIGHT TOLERANCES and SOLIDITY BE YOUR MAIN IMPROVEMENTS. Go back to the drawing board instead of coming up with one small improvement a year. A 2013 TRIGGER SAFETY IMPROVEMENT………..REALLY? Colored (ANODIZED) tubes….REALLY? THE BOUNTY HUNTER…….REALLY!?

    #175024

    caboose212
    Participant

    I feel the same way Ced… and I’m not a machinist! Though I wish I were- I’m just an idea man. But I do want to make this happen!! I’m also looking at an Eliseo tube gun type build- check out the photos below:


    I think you’re on the right track with the thicker tube… So thick in fact, that maybe the trigger group could be attached like real steel bolt rifles, or like this Eliseo rifle, with screws… Here’s another trigger group picture:


    This might be the way to go!!


    Here’s a shot of the complete rifle… Of course, there’s no stock but the tanks back there, and I’d be using Tony’s tank adapter. This is going to be fun!

    #175228

    tofazfou
    Member

    GUYS,

    I can appreciate all the interest in the 257. It’s worth it.

    But this page is not the place. Its just a info page and all replys back and forth should have a separate thread.

    THANX GUYS!

    Cedric

    #175229

    caboose212
    Participant

    Gotcha Ced- That was my fault 😥

    #176908

    caboose212
    Participant

    Here’s a question- if I wanted to go unshrouded, what muzzle brake that’s been used gives the best recoil control and accuracy? I know someone was trying a few out… and also- this .257 im building is a dedicated gun- what length barrel should I go with, since I’m not going to shroud it? looking for accuracy. I’m going to hook it up to a 90cu in 4500 psi tank. and how is everyone’s gun shooting? I mean, how many cc’s of air is each shot in a modified condor? If these questions belong in another section, I apologize.

    #177082

    knifemaker
    Member

    Having exelent results with the 257420 today. At 80 yards, first two shots, same hole. Only very slightly wider when looking really close. Third shot, touching to the left. And No Fliers Today!!! :8:

    #177246

    tofazfou
    Member

    Caboose,

    I don’t think very many folks have tried very many muzzle brakes as of today. the 257 is still in its infant stages and not that many people own them. YET! But I use a HATSAN AIRSTRIPPER and I love it. It works for sure. I got the air stripper from Pyramid Air. RC uses a muzzle brake so you might wanna see which one he uses.

    #177252

    walkonking
    Participant

    Great Thread Cedric.

    Really good addition to the forum

    Thanks

    #177259

    80-grit
    Member

    Charlie (RC) got one for 110.00 from brownells but he had to get it in .30 cal (a little too big). He also has this sexy one from NorthWestPrecision. I talked with them and the weight of the 0.850 is 3.5oz and the 0.950 is 4oz and that is prior to receiving bore hole so they will decrease in weight somewhat. They will drill any bore size you want (.270 for the .257) Here is the link on fleabay:

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Muzzle-Brake-Rifle-or-Pistol-Muzzle-break-caliber-drilled-to-what-you-need-/221200510627?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item338093eea3

    #177381

    roachcreek
    Member

    4 cavity molds, sizers and muzzle breaks.

    I get a lot of PMG’s one these subjects.

    80 has answered the muzzle break question, but I might add that two days ago at 640 yards I shot the 80 and 100 grain NOE with and without the muzzle break and with and without the rubber bulb on my barrel. I could see no difference in the group size in the impact with the mine tailing and the dust from the hits, which is a very crude test, so the next month or two I will be experimenting with both and 10 shot groups with the 420 HP and NOE 80 grain and both barrel twists at 280 yards.

    I do notice a difference in my sound box as a muzzle break disfuses the air better and allows it to be absorbed better, but I don’t know of anyone who uses one and my sound box is sitting unused these days as everyone shoots far louder guns around where I live.

    4 cavity molds: I use them because I shoot a huge amount of bullets. However they are far harder to get consistent, + or – on tenth of a grain and to get sharp bases with. Read that difficult to cast good bullets with for me with 40 years of doing this and I would rather have two 2 cavity molds instead. If your shooting IPSC or your making bullets for sale like RJ, it is a completely different matter, but with a air rifle that needs refilled every 2 to 10 shots you don’t need bullets by the pound per minute rate and the 4 cavity molds will be very frustrating.

    Now about 6 cavity molds…………… never again!

    Aluminum mold damage easily but do have some advantages, but I prefer steel two cavity molds and running two of them at the same time gives me far more consistent bullets and at the end of the day after sorting and weighing I have just as many or more than if I was running a single 4 cavity aluminum mold.

    NOE does sell two cavity aluminum molds and and there 80 grain bullets are about as accurate as anything I have shot to 280 yards. However a 2 cavity 257420 Lyman mold is just about as good as it gets with a 257 air gun, especially if Erik has hollowpointed it, and for a Condor set up perhaps ideal for the weight and the velocity your going to be shooting. The Lyman 257420 is a simple and extremely effective answer to what mold should I get.

    You can shoot your bullets unsized quite well. Best performance is being .0005 to .001 over your slugged barrels groove diameter, but you need to slug that barrel first, and I can’t say that enough.

    You need to have a 4 position dial caliper to do this right, but a three position one will do for mere comparison, but is a crude way to do it. I get by very well with a ,258 Lee sizer, and Lee is the only one you want to use, the RCBS and LYMAN sizers and press are for PB bullets and not air gun bullets and require a special and expensive press/lube pump combination such as the Lyman 450 to use them.

    Right now Lee is behind on custom orders and the 258 sizer is a custom order, they cost 35 bucks and a portable Lee press is 35 bucks. You want that sizer to be slightly larger as I said, but you can open it up with a 25 caliber bronze brush chucked up in a drillmotor, the brush needs to be wrapped in fine steel or bronze wool and saturated with 600 grit grinding paste. Go slow and again have a 4 position caliper to check your progress.

    I hope this explains things better for the new guys getting into this.

    RC

    #177393

    dyotat100
    Member

    To really measure slugs you need to use a mic. Sorry Charlie.

    Calipers only measure in .0005″ increments. I have $200 calipers and they are only guaranteed +- .001″. So with only being that accurate and reading .0005″ you could be off .001″ easily.

    I only measure with calipers for a rough idea of size.

    My mic’s measure to .00005″ and accurate to .00005″

    If anybody wants to slug there barrel and send me the slugs I will measure them for you.

    #177411

    roachcreek
    Member

    Doug,

    Mostly I just hold the two slugs up against the sky and squint with my one good eye. 😛

    I was hoping you would say your going to sell me that Ideal spritzer mold.

    RC

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