.22 cricket accuracy issues
So… I have one of the early skeliton crickets with the rainbow colored pressre gage, and it has been tweaked a number of times by both me and Ernist. I polished the barrel to reduce the overtight choke and Ernest worked his magic on the Reg. The gun is currently shooting at around 908 (plan to turn the reg down a tad to 900) with a high of 912 and a low of 905, so an ES of 7…. not bad! I still knotice the POI shifts over shooting 3 mangs and I assume it is the airtube contracting as he pressure redcuces. Anyone find a fix for a similar issue>
Cheers,
DWM
All Replies
Viewing 14 replies - 1 through 14 (of 14 total)
dwm
There is also the miss interpretation of the term, “shift” and “shifting” POI.
A “Shift” POI move from one location and jumps to another, for example can occur with a bad scope/mounting system, parallax error, etc.
“Shifting” POI slowly creeps from one location to another, can occur from not torqueing the frame bolts correctly, over tightening the stock screw, etc.
In any case if you post a full 3-5 shot/target shot string at 50 yards with a new full crony string print out as well.
Weather if it’s you and or the gun It would help to see/analyze what is causing the accuracy issues you’re having.
~ ATB ~ GKU
Its the coffee, back off a little bit, 30 yards shots are a walk in the park when you start stretching it out to 50 and 100 yards , It takes a good gun and a good shooter,
I have to sometimes take a drug albuterol for my asthma, I still shoot my euro doves and sparrows at 38 yards , But wait a while before I attempt the 48 yard shots .
The 100 yard shots show the people that have the space and the time to spend with the gun, Its almost an art form.
My 30 dollar Crossman 760 can group 177 pellets dime size at 30 yards, I am using a 100 dollar scope on it , LOL.
I joke around a little and say the person that shots the most is the best shot….
Mike
dwm,
I did some shooting a while ago and shot this 30-shot group at 27 yards (JSB 18-gr. at 515 FPS). Shooting that much pellets into one group requires serious consistency in shooting technique on my part; because I powered down my Cricket and am shooting the 18-grain pellets at 515 FPS, I need to be as consistent and discliplined as I can (due to pellet dwell time in the barrel). Notice the orange tape on my Cricket’s forestock on the last photo. I put that there today to show you the contact point my hand goes on. The tape is two inches forward of the stock screw. That is the area on my Cricket, when held by the palm of my hand or on a soft rest, that allows the gun to remain still or move just a tad upwards on the shot cycle – not sideways or down. Of course, in addition to this, acquiring natural point-of-aim, having proper breathing, correct trigger technique (straight pull back), and follow-through must be implemented.
Also, on all my rifles, there is a spot on their forestock that I have marked so I know where to place my hand to support the weight at on each respective rifle. I believe that each rifle has a particular contact spot/node which they respond well to when they are held. You’ll have to find that specific area on you rifle. The way to do so is to start close to the trigger guard and fire a few rounds then move about an inch forward. Move your hand and remember which part on your palm bears the most weight until you find the section (on the forearm) that allows you to shoot the gun accurately. Typically, you’ll know which region would be the best as when you fire the reticle doesn’t appear to move or the rifle feels dead during the shot cycle. Sometimes you can even see the pellet fly to the point-of-aim, especially when the sun is behind you. Once you’ve found that spot, mark it with tape. Once you’ve done this, you will need to place your hand there everytime. Remember, the key is CONSISTENCY IN HOLD AND POSITION every time you shoot. I would recommend you do this before sanding things down or making mechanical modifications. Personally, the best troubleshooting technique always begins with starting with the simplest adjustment first (usually with the shooter – no disrespect to you).
Hey all that replied… really appreciate the advice. No question it could be me and not the gun. I shoot off a bench mostly, with a Atlas bipod in front and a sand bag in the back. The gun was shooting at 850 and I just turned the reg up 1/4 turn (ccw) which was a tad too much, and plan to tweak it back to 890fps soon, but the gun had the same issue of moving POI before. I have the (single) stock screw as loos as possible but my stock is very tight, so I will probably try the sanding down the internal part of the stock just a tad to take that out of the equation. Hopefully doing that and working on my shooting skils will fix the issue. The gun is capible of shooting VERY tight groups at 40 yards but things could be improved between gun/scope tweaks and cutting back on coffee I think:)
dwm
Cheers,
DWM
dwm,
How are you shooting the gun? Are you resting the gun directly on a rest or bipod? I’m not sure if you know this, but even PCPs can be sensitive to how they are held and rested. If you are shooting it on a rest, make sure that the rifle is situated exactly the same every shot. Additionally, the rest has to be soft and not grippy. When I shoot my guns to test for accuracy, even while bench-resting, I place my non-trigger hand underneath the forestock (with my hand placed on top of the shooting rest). It is very important that the softness of your rest is as close or similar to the human hand. The reason for this is that human flesh allows the rifle to slide front and back upon its recoil when it is relaxed, and it is also better able to dampen vibration. Alot of shooting bags such as those filled with sand, beans, rice, nut shells, etc., most often do not allow this. Also, over time, they tend to settle together and therefore cause the surface which the rifle rests on to become hard. This makes it difficult for the rifle to move straight back. You’d have to frequently loosen the filling material, but then you lose the previous contour making it difficult for consistent forestock placement. With your hand, you can consistently do this as well as feel it.
You can actually see and feel the difference in the rifle’s movement between shooting using the palm of your hand and a bag as a rest. In my experience, my rifles move more smoothly during recoil and don’t bounce all over the place when using the palm of my hand as a rest. Give it a try. Good luck!
Another thing to check is the scope mounts.
Sent from my Z30 using Tapatalk
Great news Ernest.. I can’t wait to get it, Thank you
😎
Lagger, your .25 is done just waiting on the shipping label.
quick test, swap out the scope. scope might not hold zero…happened to me before
Ernest is currently working on my 25 cricket rifle (not BP) and is grinding the barrel band off to free float the barrel as it has been observed that the expansion and contraction of the AT does affect poi as the pressure changes.
Hey dwm,
Some things you can try are.
JSB 18g at 880-890 fps.
Check your scope for parallax error.
Free float the AT, on the Taipan Mutants they all come with the stock already free floated.
For some guns, barrel pull seems to help more info here for ya.
http://talonairgun.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=31238&p=315704&hilit=POI+shifting#p315704
~ ATB ~ GKU
first check your shooting style if you are shooting the same way you would a powder burner then you wont get consistent groups try benchrest shooting with only your cheek and shooting hand touching the gun and very lightly touching.
if this does not work make sure you don’t tighten your stock screws to tight. I tighten my screws down then back them off and then bring them back to a very slight tightness, about 5 inch lbs torque.
if that does not work check the torque on your barrel screws to the rail tower. they can be tight but need to be the same torque.
if this does not work try free floating your air tube just the part in front of the rail tower. I used 220 grit just enough to take it away from the tube you almost cant even tell.
I did all of these things and it just improved my accuracy by a ton these are also poi shift fixes.
hope this helps
by the way I am not trying to tell you that you don’t know how to shoot but I and many ppl who have shot my gun pick it up for the first time shoot it and don’t like the accuracy they are getting but then I tell them to barely touch the cheek rest with there cheek and only touch the grip enough to pull the trigger straight and consistent, don’t use any more pressure then needed, the gun is not going to fly back and smack your eye. after this they don’t want to stop shooting. :biggrinn:
also did ernest say anything about a poi shift in your gun?
Viewing 14 replies - 1 through 14 (of 14 total)
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.
DWM I’d turn down the reg an 1/8 turn CW and try for a high of 885 or so. I’d also put a slight gap between the barrel shoulder and receiver, then check scope ring tightness and optic. You didn’t mention how it shot before turning up the reg ?